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Basically because of this thread: http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=1849183&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1 I now need to replace the front brake pads & possibly the rotors as well.. Though I hope now.. I bought 2 sets of front brakes, 1 set of "Performance Friction Carbon Metallic" part number 7564 0756.20 by pinnacle brake technology for $45.99 And one set of "Bendix TitaniuMetallic Domestic Brake Pads" part number MKD824 for $49.99. Which set do I keep, and does anyone have any instructions on how to change brake pads? I've never done it.. Thanks Edited by Bobcat698 (06/20/04 08:57 PM) |
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Both are our competitors, but if I were to select which of the two, I would go for the .20 PF's. Just make sure you change out your brake fluid every 2 years. And 2, based on the other thread, make sure you clean out the torque bracket recesses where the pads reside, check the slide pins and boots, and also how easily the caliper pistons go back in. That pad shucked because it was in contact drag with the rotor and got excessively hot. While not organized, you may be able to get some hints from this album. |
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Thanks.. Anybody have some step by step install instructions? |
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Quote: The rotor that the pad fell off on, is SHOT.. The minimum spec thickness for having the rotors turned is 38mm.. One rotor was at 30mm thickness and the other at 33mm thickness.. So I bought 2 of them at the dealer before they closed for $129 a piece, then bought OE quality rotors at Carquest a short time later for $105.. So the dealer is getting theirs back.. I went to do the job and find that the place where the pad fell out of, the clips and backing that fits against the piston are GONE.. (I found the backing but its really mangled, probably unusable..) Plus one of the springs that holds the pads apart is all mangled and the other one is gone.. So, I have to wait until monday to get the disc brake kit.. Here she sits Truck In Garage, Wheels fell off..  Does a lot of good there.. BTW, link is on picture because I don't want people posting this to many other places.. |
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Quote: Did you ever have those rotors turned? |
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Quote:Quote: No sir, but then again I bought the truck at 54,000 miles so it may have been done before I got the truck.. Truck now has nearly 75,000 miles on it.. |
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The side that shucked the pads I cannot move caliper at all with my hands, but the other side I can. On both sides, the pistons are out at different lenghts, and my neighbor who owns a towing company next door says I should get new "loaded" calipers.. What do you think? |
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I was out messing with the pistons on the side that messed up the pad.. I had someone hit the brakes to see if it they would come out a bit.. It moved a bit. Later on I came out to find the piston was WAY out. I attempted to push it back in but it fell out along with a bunch of brake fluid.. So should I just get new calipers now since I probably screwed this one? I cannot get the torque bracket to move at all on that side.. I'm not sure why.. The other side will come off if I pull on it.. |
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Sorry I was not online earlier. I would get another caliper at least for that side, but probably both due to the pistons not being out equally. Calipers can be a rebuilt units, but I like them new (and get a very deep discount). They should come with a new or rebuilt torque brackets. The decision to get them loaded or unloaded is going to be yours based on the price over the counter. The Performance Friction pads that you have (.20's) are good, as are the Motorcraft loaded pads if you go that route. (I'm assuming when you say you can't get it off, you meant the sliding pins are rusted in.) I really feel this puppy had brake problems earlier then your ownership. Those rotors would never wear to the point of being that thin, they would have to be severely turned. The minimum spec on the rotors is not for thermal capacity as everyone thinks. The minimum that a rotor can be turned is set for not allowing the pistons to come out of the bore if both pads loose all of the friction material. It's better to stop on steelbacks then loose fluid integrity. |
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Quote: Well, I've pried on it with all I've got (not using any tools) and can't get it to budge.. I haven't unbolted them however, since I didn't need to on the other side.. They just slid out and I can completely remove the torque bracket without unbolting it... Is it normal to have the inside pad wear faster than the outside pad? On the other side there appears to be about 1/4" difference of wear on the pads.. I called and talked to Autozone about calipers and they have rebuilt Fenco's for $37.99, add $45 without a core.. Any comments about Fenco? I will probably check around tomorrow but do you know of any brands to stay away from? I will probably get the goods at Carquest if possible, or should I go to FOMOCO? Thanks Garrett |
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I'd really like someone to chime in about good/bad brands of calipers.. Thanks.. |
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I bought some Premium Calipers from Napa loaded for $260.00 lifetime warranty. Ford wanted $206.00 but they didn't have them in stock.. But the slide that the brake pads actually clip into has a problem.. I can't get the rod out of it... I need to get a new bracket or SOMETHING.. I'm heading to the Ford dealership soon.. |
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No offence Garrett,i think you are in over your head.Never fool around with brakes. Bring in some professional help and get it done right.Too bad you were'nt closer to me , i'd hook you up over a few brewskies. Garrette ask Broker,he may have a service manual on disc ,he could maybe e-mail some steps from it to you.He has about 45 + of these trucks in their concrete construction business.Just a thought. Peter. |
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Quote: I got er done. Truck brakes like a champ now. Had to heat up that torque bracket to get the bolt to slide out. It was rusted in. |
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Front Brake help, several questions.. Please help ASAP
Re: Which Brake pads should I use? Bendix or Carbon Metallic?
