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How often do you feel it is necessary to do this procedure? I want to do a complete system flush on the trucks. Also what do you feel is a resonable price? |
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In my TDI, you are supposed to flush the fluid every 2 years. I will buy a motive brake bleeder, and DI myself. Cost 90 bucks, works on most vehicles. If you change the fluid every 2 years, there is no reason for hydraulic system failure. At least thats what I hear. |
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You remove the moisture and I do mine every 2-3 years. If there are no problems like frozen bleeders, I would think $60-$75 would be in the ball park. I can do mine in less than an hour and use less than 2 qts of brake fluid for an average vehicle. Jim |
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This is one maintenance procedure that I've never done. It's not even recommended in most owners manuals for cars and trucks. The same thing goes for changing out the gear oil in the differential(s). I have done this though with my boat trailer's brakes. That fluid turns light brown with water contamination. But I've never seen it in a car or trucks brake resevoir.....  Kindest Regards, -Will in Maryland |
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I am definitely gonna do it on my F350. We also have a beater '95 F150 that has never had the fluid completely flushed and we've been running into problems with the steel brake lines disintegrating. The lines are rusting from the inside out, and giving you quite a thrill when one ruptures and you loose all brake pressure. We're in the process of changing them all out. Regular flushing would've been much cheaper. |
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Jack has talked about this before... He says to do it..! Here is just one of the posts by him LINKY... |
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Quote:  I too listen to him and do the "monkey routine".  . FWIW HERE is what he says about the rear.  Larry keeper of the "little secrets" CLICK HERE 
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FWIW I do mine everytime I swap out pads on a vehicle. Usually works out to every 2-3 years. Everything I've read says you should do it every 2 years but I figure I'm close enough. Regards, Dave |
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******Well******* Looks like I need to bleed my brakes too. Been doing a little research on the Internet about it, and it's higly recommended to be done.  Kindest Regards, -Will in Maryland |
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I thought the same thing as you untill I read a few of Jacks posts and then did a little googling. |
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ON my Expedition, I hd the brakes replaced by the dealer (did a great job) but about a year later, I realized the peddle was a little mushy under really hard braking especially when it was hot out. Well, I did it the old fashoined way, had my wife get in the Expy and press the brake peddle while I bled them. SHe was not happy, but I have to say, after I bled them and got the "Coke" out of the lines, I was amazed at how well the brakes worked. Soooo much more firm and sure in any kind of weather. I'd say at least once every 2 years. More often in some conditions... |
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I don't know anyone who completely flushes their brake system. That being said if it was a regular maintenance item there would be far less brake master cylinder, brake line, and wheel cylinder failures. You could probably do it yourself though I do not know the ins and outs of bleeding an ABS vehicle. If you wanted to do a "good enough" job, get a one man brake bleeder and just keep bleeding until you've pulled fresh clean fluid to the furthermost caliper and repeat around the truck. Honestly though it might be worth paying to have it done. |
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Quote: I do. I guess that comes from my experience at Les Schwab doing brakes. No matter if it was rear or front brakes, the entire system was flushed. Nice thing to have to start with is a vacuum to suck out all the brake fluid from the reservoir so you start with fresh at that point and then begin bleeding at the furthest point. For me, brake lines are the ones that I worry about deteriorating due to rust because whenever I do brakes, I do the whole kit and caboodle. If it's drums I'm working on, the springs, and wheel cylinders get replaced along with the shoes. For disk brakes, reman'd calipers go on. I also closely inspect for indications of wear in the brake hose....any signs and it's getting replaced. I have had brakes not work for me before, as I'm sure many have, and it's just not something I want to have happen at the worst time (e.g. when slamming on the brakes because somebody blows through a stop sign) |
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Quote: I usually don't refer to PMs, but it this case, Jack pre apporved me posting the following,which might provide a little more info, especially on the ABS concern .... My PM to Jack: Quote: Jack's response to me: Quote: Since this was over a year ago, maybe Jack might want to add/subtract from what was said before. Larry keeper of the "little secrets" CLICK HERE
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Quote: Flushes are an industry standard now. European & Japanese manufactures are the ones that recommend it. Toyota now recommends brake Flushes every years do to moister build up. Wayne B |
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Quote: Ah just remembered ... don't forget THIS. This is on my list that I haven't done yet  I'm googling for the WW flush and filter, but am coming up empty so far.  Can't decide if I need a Magnefine or a full blown Amsoil bypass on that system, but think the Magnefine might do the job ... LOL I tell you we flush, change, add, pamper, baby, mod, add, worry more than anyone else I know of vehicle wise, but  Larry keeper of the "little secrets" CLICK HERE
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My nephew was a test driver for a GM contractor in Colorado for several years. Most of his job consisted of driving down Pikes Peak testing brake systems. They had computers with sensors on the brake systems and would often test the brakes to the failure point. He is a firm believer in changing brake fluid due to the moisture build up. When the brakes get hot the water flashes into steam and that puts play in the hydraulic system. He had some pretty wild rides during those years when systems that the engineers said were supposed to be great up to 2000 degrees failed at 700 degrees. |
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your front and rear flex lines are rubber, with cord internal braid--if you take a thin slice of the rubber under a micro--youll see air pockets---though the fluid cant get out--air can get in--because NEW brake fluid is dry--and it pulls small amounts of moisture right thru the line--thats why triangle bandag tires last sooooo long--almost no air pockets in the rubber tread--same reason for removing and replaceing the R12 in air cond systems in cars years ago--same moisture absorbtion--dont have it now on air as the lines have a internal nylon liner-----since about 87????? |
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Purging your Super Duty brake system is easy. Search on posts by FMTRVT. He has forgotten more about Super Duty brakes than you and I are ever going to learn. Having said that I'll offer my own non-expert opinion. The OEM fluid in our trucks, Motorcraft Heavy Duty Dot 3, is decent fluid with a pretty high heat rating. Alot of racers use it for this reason and the fact that it is cheap. But there is a problem. The OEM fluid accumulates moisture quickly. You don't want to leave this stuff in your brake system for years and years because corrosion *will* result. The racers don't care because they change out their brake fluid frequently so there isn't a moisture accumulation issue. Another fluid sometimes cited is Motul 600 racing. It has extremely high wet and dry heat ratings. But it also accumulates moisture too quickly and so is mostly favored by racers. Quite a few people who post to this site use this fluid. I use ATE (Alfred Teves Engineering) Super Blue Racing brake fluid. Its DOT 3/4 and comes OEM in new BMWs. It has a high heat rating and is noted for extreme dryness over long periods of time. You can leave this stuff in your brakes forever basically though I plan to change mine every 3-4 years. This fluid is also known as ATE Type II racing fluid. The only difference is that the Super Blue is blue and the Type II is gold. They offer these two in different colors so that when you purge your system you can see the color change to evaluate when the system is fully purged. They are both the exact same fluid except for the color. It mixes compatibly with OEM fluid which is necessary since there will be residual OEM fluid in the ABS. If you find some wet grass and can engage the ABS you'll get some of the fresh fluid into it. Don't go anywhere near the silicon brake fluids (DOT V). Now here is the bad part. Not all will agree and I respect their viewpoints. You must not use any kind of power bleeder on your Super Duty pickup that is equipped with ABS. You can potentially damage the delicate check-valves in the ABS controller. It is recommended that you "pedal push bleed" in the style you might already be familiar with. If you insist that the system be purged by a machine I recommend that you visit a brake technician. If you have a helper you can bleed conventionally. Its important to place a 2x4 or some object under the brake pedal to prevent it from travelling too far on a pedal push and overextending a caliper piston. Bleed long line to short line, so passenger rear first, drivers front last. SpeedBleeders are replacement bleed valves with check valves built into them so you can bleed the system quickly and solo. They come with a silicon tube that doesn't degrade from contact with the brake fluid. The stainless steel ones were about $20 each. You just open one about 1/2 turn and you can pedal-push repeatedly and really purge the line without having to close the valve between pushes. The old OEM fluid looked scary. And thats here in the driest area in N. America. Scott |
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I checked out the speedbleeders website, how did you determine what size to get? They do not have anything current in an F250/350? |
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bjhenley, On their site select Automobile from the tab list on the left and then Ford etc. Our trucks are down towards the bottom of the Ford list. Ford F250 3/4 Ton etc. I got the 303 stainless, no particular reason.
SpeedBleeders Scott |
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The years they list for F250/350 only go up to 1997. |
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Mine are SB3824. You can call them to verify the correct P/N for your truck. Scott |
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Just adding thread to my favorites for future reference. |
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Thanks NRTS, gonna get a set for the 250 and boat trailer. |
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I was cleaning out my Dad's shop a couple weeks ago and found an old, half full ,quart of brake fluid. I gave it a shake and it seemed like the fluid was real thin, seemed more like water by the feel/sound of it being shook. I got an old glass quart jar and poured it in, it looked like a really thin oil, I was amazed out how the oil and water had mixed. Now I believe in flushing brake fluid. Now this is an extreme situation, probably 15 years old, in a plastic container, forming condensation for all those years, but it proved to me that brake fluid can, does and will absorb moisture. |
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Quote: It's been a while since I've bled brakes on something other than a boat trailer, but can't you just run a tube from the valve into a jar that has some brake fluid already in it (end of tube is in fluid, not air)? You wouldn't have to repeatedly open and close the valve between pushes and you can easily do it yourself? |
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You guys are doing pretty good on your own in this thread, so the only thing I will add is my high tech brake bleeder bottle. Pic |
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Quote: Good one. If there are fluid reservoirs on both ends of a line under slight vacuum its not clear whether fluid would enter the line from the Master Cylinder, draining container, or both. The intent of purging is to get the clean fluid from the MC into the line so we "cap" one end of the line before we release the pedal so that the fluid can only come from the MC. Hope that makes sense. Scott |
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What is your thoughts on flushing your brake fluid??
