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Most of us know why the CCV crank case vent needs to be modified, for those that don’t know it is in an effort to reduce the oil vapor from getting into the turbo and intercooler where it condenses and is usually only visible at the intercooler tube boots. _____________________________________________________________________ RACOR CCV4500 TESTING Many thanks go to “dmftoy1” for graciously taking the time and money to remove the Racor CCV4500 off his truck and send it to me for the tests on the Racor. Thanks again Dave! RACOR CCV4500 CONSTRUCTION First I will attempt to describe how the Racor 4500 is built. The unit consists of a canister style filter container with an inlet and outlet manifold or head. There is a rubber diaphragm inside of the head with springs both, in between it and the top of the head and between it and the filter socket (top and bottom of the diaphragm). This diaphragm also seals off, from the dirty side (high pressure side), several openings or slots located around the edges of the diaphragm inside the head with a rubber fold that is an integral part of the diaphragm. The slots appear to be designed to allow airflow to bypass the filter as the folds of the diaphragm are lifted or pushed out of the way. Air can flow from the dirty side (high pressure side) to the clean side (low pressure side). High pressure from the crankcase would cause the diaphragm to move upward against the spring causing the filter minder to push upwards as well as raising the rubber fold of the diaphragm opening the bypass openings or slots. The diaphragm can also move downward against the bottom spring, it appears that it will move down under excessive vacuum (suction) from the turbo inlet. The action of the diaphragm lowering effectively lowers the airflow through the filter or can completely seal off the filter if it was to move down far enough, it also seals the slots in the head even more effectively by pulling the rubber fold down well past the bypass slots. TESTING THE RACOR CCV4500 All of the following tests were performed with the stock air box, Napa gold air filter, stock inlet tubes on the turbo, programmed with the Superchips 1705 to the Tow Safe mode (60HP) and straight piped with stock exhaust pipes (No Muffler). I installed the Racor 4500 using a total of 6 foot 4 inches of ¾ inch ID hose. A new Racor filter part number CCV55248-08 was utilized for all of these tests. A 4 inch hose with a 90 degree radius was fitted directly to the crankcase vent connection on the valve cover. On this was inserted a ¾ inch barbed nylon T fitting where I reduced the T fitting size on the bottom by gluing in an barbed nylon reducing adapter. I then connected about 4 feet of ¼ inch pneumatic tubing through the firewall and into the cab and connected it to a Magnehelic Gauge that reads 0 to 1 inch of water column. I then ran from the T fitting to the Racor 4500 inlet with about a 1 foot of the ¾ hose and then ran the remainder of the ¾ inch hose from the outlet of the Racor 4500 to the turbo inlet as would be expected under any normal installation. ------------------------------------------------------------ Racor CCV4500 - Static Test (parked and not in gear) with new filter ------------------------------------------------------------ The following are the readings taken from that first test. RPM / Reading 700 / +0.36 to +0.5 Positive Pressure (Bounces around) 1100 / 0.0 Neutral 1500 / -0.32 Negative Vacuum 1750 / -0.60 Negative Vacuum Interesting thing to note here was that I removed the filter minder cap and plug (indicator) and placed a simple ball point pen in it’s place. The pen never moved up or down throughout all the simulations even under high RPM spikes. If it did move it was only very slight and hardly noticeable. ---------------------------------------------------------- Racor 4500 CCV – Simulated Used Filter – Static Tests ------------------------------------------------------------ The same installation as above, to simulate a clogged filter I taped paper to the outside of the entire filter. The idea was that the pressure from the crankcase coming from the inside of the filter would push the paper off the filter allowing only a minimal airflow through the filter. RPM / Reading 700 / +0.84 Positive Pressure 1500 / +0.20 Positive Pressure Interesting thing to note here was that the filter minder never moved even under a high RPM spikes. ---------------------------------------------------------- Racor 4500 CCV – Normal Operating Conditions (Driving) ------------------------------------------------------------ Driving the truck as I normally would and with a new Racor filter installed. The idea here was both to see how unit performed overall as well as how the unit’s performance changed as the filter saturated with oil. Because the diesel engine’s output horse power is not at all relative to the actual engine RPM’s the measurements taken while driving are not a good bench standard so I planned on performing the static tests (parked and not in gear) several times to get an idea of what was going on. First I will attempt to describe the performance of the Racor CCV4500 while driving. For the most part unless you are getting into the gas, generally below 70 MPH the crankcase was running at a positive pressure (+0.2 to +0.8). It is interesting to note that for the first 200 miles when accelerating up a hill the unit pulled a negative (-0.1 to -0.3) and it also pulled a negative coasting down the hill. After about 200 miles it never really went into a negative again unless getting into the gas. While driving up a moderate hill at 60 MPH and not really having to accelerate hard to make the hill the pressure was at a positive as high as +0.8”WC and fluctuated constantly but never went below +0.2”WC. This was true right from the start and performed the same way on flat land as well. At about 300 miles into the tests, while passing on a grade and spooling the turbo. It definitely brought the crankcase into a negative (-0.1 to -0.2), but as soon as the transmission shifted back into the higher gear it shot right back up into the positive (+0.2 to +0.6). While driving at below 55 or in city driving the crankcase was at a positive pressure (+0.2 to +0.8) unless I asked for some horses like when leaving a stop light, as soon as I let off, or as soon as the transmission shifted or I went into normal acceleration to maintain a speed the pressure went back to positive. Progressively over time as the filter saturated with oil and debris the pressures crept higher and higher, I have to admit it was performing pretty well in the beginning but as time wore on the pressures kept rising. Near the end of my tests at speeds of 70 MPH and accelerating only to maintain that speed the crankcase pressure was showing slightly positive (0 to +0.2). While at the very beginning and continuing through the first 200 miles it was showing a slight vacuum (0 to -0.2) and this was the only time I saw a maintained vacuum under normal driving conditions. The following are static test pressure readings after driving with filter installed. --------------------------------------------- Racor CCV4500 – Static Tests After Driving --------------------------------------------- Miles / RPM / Reading 0 / 700 / +0.3 to +0.4 Positive Pressure 0 / 1100 / 0.0 Neutral 0 / 1500 / -0.32 Negative Vacuum 0 / 1750 / -0.60 Negative Vacuum First Leg (Tested upon arrival) Miles / RPM / Reading 20 / 700 / +0.3 to +0.4 Positive Pressure 20 / 1100 / 0.08 Positive Pressure 20 / 1500 / -0.2 Negative Vacuum Second Leg (Allowing the truck to sit for 4 hours and then performing this test) Miles / RPM / Reading 164 / 700 / +0.4 to +0.5 Positive Pressure 164 / 1100 / +0.24 Positive Pressure 164 / 1500 / -0.1 Negative Vacuum Third Leg (Allowing the truck to sit overnight about 12 hours and then performing this test) Miles / RPM / Reading 314 / 700 / +0.5 Positive Pressure 314 / 1100 / +0.26 Positive Pressure 314 / 1500 / -0.1 Negative Vacuum Fourth Leg (Tested upon arrival) 360 / 700 / +0.5 to +0.6 Positive Pressure 360 / 1100 / +0.28 Positive Pressure 360 / 1500 / -0.02 Negative Vacuum Upon completion of these tests the filter still appeared to be clean and new, the canister had just a trace of oil and the outlet or suction hose had no oil visible and was dry to the touch. ---------------------------------------------------------- Racor 4500 CCV – Filter Minder / Bypass Test ------------------------------------------------------------ Removing the Racor CCV4500 from the truck, I capped off the suction side of the unit. I then installed the reduced T fitting from the above installation and utilizing a different Magnehelic gauge that measures a range of 0 to 3 inches water column I pressurized the unit to determine when the filter minder would raise up (consequently the diaphragm as well). The filter minder fully extends at about 0.5 Inches of water column, again this is with the suction side capped off, while in operation I had seen positive pressures in excess of +0.8 inches of water column and the filter minder never moved. If it had the indicator plug would have stayed in that position as that is how it is designed. I can only assume that the pressures inside the head of the unit is much lower (due to the vacuum created by the turbo) than those measured just after the crankcase vent connection. ______________________________________________________________________ OTHER CRANKCASE VENT TESTING In an effort to show the relationship between the Racor CCV4500 and both the stock crankcase vent and the open crank case vent I went ahead and performed tests on these as well utilizing the same 6 feet of ¾ inch hose. Stock Crankcase Vent ----------------------------------------------------------- Stock CCV – Static Test (with 6’ 4” of ¾ hose) ----------------------------------------------------------- RPM / Reading 700 / +0.05 Positive Pressure 1000 / -0.06 Negative Vacuum 1500 / -0.5 Negative Vacuum ----------------------------------------------------------- Stock CCV – Driving Test (with 6’ 4” of ¾ hose) ----------------------------------------------------------- RPM / MPH / Reading 1250 / 30 / -0.2 Negative Vacuum 1500 / 40 / -0.4 Negative Vacuum 1350 / 50 / -0.1 Negative Vacuum 1750 / 65 / 0.1 to -0.4 Negative Vacuum 1900 / 70 / -0.8 to -1.0 Negative Vacuum The stock vent occasional will go into a light positive pressure, at idle and sometimes while coasting as well as during lower power (almost lugging) conditions. Really getting into it cause a vacuum well in excess of the gauges capabilities to read beyond the -1.0 Open Crankcase Vent ----------------------------------------------------------- Open CCV – Static Test (with 5’ 4” of ¾ hose) ----------------------------------------------------------- RPM / Reading 700 / / +0.04 to +0.1 Positive Pressure 1000 / +0.1 Positive Pressure 1500 / +0.12 Positive Pressure ----------------------------------------------------------- Open CCV – Driving Test (with 5’ 4” of ¾ hose) ----------------------------------------------------------- RPM / MPH / Reading 700 / 30 / +0.2 Positive Pressure 1500 / 40 / +0.2 Positive Pressure For the most part the crankcase runs at +0.2 pressure while in gear and driving at all speeds, spikes as high as +0.4 with hard acceleration were noted as well as some instances of the pressure actually going into a negative. I suspect that the air flow across the end of the hose was creating some pressure fluctuations such as the negative readings. ----------------------------------- CCV Filters - Home Made Variations ----------------------------------- I built and installed several variations of custom filter setups using PVC pipe, steel wool, scotchbrite pads and even copper pot scrubbers in an effort to come up with a coalescing filter. I even tried an empty PVC pipe arraignment. With any of these filters installed or just the PVC pipe empty I found that the crankcase pressure actually increases in proportion to the range of the RPMs. At idle the pressure range had increased up to +0.05 to +0.15 and while under acceleration the pressure increased up to +0.8 in wc and above. __________________________________________________________________ Again I am not an expert, just thought I’d share what I have found while testing all of these set ups out. After doing these tests I am still convinced that an open vent is the only way to go. However in the near future I plan on testing the exhaust bung mod and see what happens with that. (Come to your own conclusions) From what I understand (From an international mechanic with 16 years under his belt) International/Navistar was using the same set up as the Ford PSD on their commercial engines up until 1996 when they changed their design and went back to an open vent with a draft tube. I do not know if they have tested any filters or exhaust bungs but I do find it interesting that they are still building them with an open vent to this day. ------------------------------------------------------------------- I had taken several pictures of the dash cluster with the Magnehelic held up reading positive pressures while driving down the road with the Racor CCV4500 installed. I also took some of the Racor installation. In the next few days if anyone wants to see them I can get them posted up. -------------------------------------------------------------------- **Again many thanks to “dmftoy1” for loaning me his Racor for these tests. John 
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thanks allot for the info, that is the kinda specs I've been wanting. I also can't wait for the Vac-u-pan system (exhaust bung) testing either. I think that is gonna be the way to go. I have that system on my drag car and at idle the vacum is unbelivable, even though it's a gasser. I am kinda wondering about the residue in the exhaust causing problems but maybe a simple strainer with a drain could be put in line to catch most of the oil. Thanks again. 
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I would defiantly be interested on how mine would test out. |
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Nice post. I've printed it off for further digestion!  Did you hook it up so that the oil was returned to your crankcase or just leave it capped as I sent it to you? I've got a full corona bottle of "trapped" oil sitting in my garage from 23k of driving. I'm not sure how much of that is burned vs trapped in the intercooler in a stock setup, but it's amazing to me that that quantity of oil is going through the CCV. I've come to the conclusion that my truck doesn't really burn any oil . .it just blows some out the ccv. Have a good one, Dave |
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Elk Chaser, well I guess I am a little slow at times. Could you give a definitive answer on what you concluded on your testing. Does the rancor work or not?? Is it a bad thing to use, or is it better than stock?? By the way, THANKS, for taking the time to do the testing for us PSD people, and thanks to dmftoy 1 for lending the use of his rancor. Again, thanks, Paul B |
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Quote: Yea, me too ... I'm in the same boat as Paul, but my one man dingy has a giant hole in it  ... is sinking fast and am in immediate danger of drowning here before I understand exactly what all this means since I don't even have a thimble to bail out the water with.  All I think I know you don't want to overpressurize the crankcase or I guess you can develop oil leaks, but past that what do the numbers really mean or show us  Larry keeper of the "little secrets" |
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Quote:Quote: Ditto that. What do we want it to do. On Suzuki GSXRs(crotch rockets) there is a simple change that you can do to the emmisions system that will make your engine pick up a hp or 2. It is a suction created on the the crankcase that frees up the hp. Less air to pump and more by the undersides of the pistons. The suction comes from the crankcase being evacuated by the negative exhaust pressure. |
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I really did not want to give my opinion but here it goes. In My Opinion - The crankcase should not be subjected to excessive pressures ever, the excessive pressures are conducive to gasket and seal failures on any engine and cause oil leaks. On this I think we can all agree, as far as when the pressure is considered excessive I really can not say but logically the higher the pressure the faster the failure, the lower the pressure the longer it will take to cause that failure. In my tests the Racor CCV4500 acts the same as any home made CCV filter, granted it performs much better but the pressures on the crankcase are the same. As high as 0.8 inches of water column. Now is the 0.8 inches of WC bad for the engine, I don't know. I do know that it cannot be good for an engine and I do know that any engine with a clogged up PCV valve will leak oil and blow seals, replace the valve and the oil leaks go away more times than not. In those cases the oil leaks are caused by high crankcase pressures and stop when that high pressure condition stops. To me the opposite is true as well, excessive negative crankcase pressure cannot be good either as it can lead to gasket and seal failure as well as draw in contaminants. Again the Higher the Vacuum the Faster the Failure........... So in my opinion, for these reasons the Racor CCV4500, any home made CCV filter and even the stock set up is not a good choice for our engines. Right now I am sticking to the open vent (Like International Navistar has done) until I can test the exhaust bung mod and see how it performs. So there you have it, my opinion. I understand that my post was a long one and difficult to get through but I wanted to give as much information as possible. The numbers show that the unit does cause high crankcase pressures and that those pressures progressively climb as the filter is used. All in all I wanted everyone to make their own judgments as that is what everyone is going to do anyways. So I gave all the data that I could possibly give you. Dave, I did not connect the drain line as I did not think it really would make any difference in the performance of the Racor unit. As far as how much oil stays in the intercooler I think it has been shown on here before that it really is a minimal amount and does not really build up over time as it just travels through the closed loop and eventually gets burned. The most talked about issue for the CCV mods is the leaking boots but I think the stock set up is bad for the engine itself also. |
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Quote: I would think that the turbo drawing on the CCV with that short piece of hose would be the most extreme you can get and that is design straight from the factory. |
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Elk Chaser, thanks for the non (sic) opinion. No, it really does help. Now, being that I am a little slower than most,LOL, what prey tell is the "open vent" like Navistar does?? And IF you think this is "best" until you test the bung mod, what is the best way to do it?? Inquiring minds would like to know, Paul B |
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I'll just quote the Navistar Mechanic himself Quote: You can see his post for yourself Here As for what is best I guess that is really up to the individual and what you think is best. I have and will continue to use the open vent described above. I plan on testing the exhaust bung mod mainly out of curiosity, if it does show good results maybe I'll stick with it. |
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I just disconected my exauhst bung after doing some real simple test of vacuum. At 700 rpm the exaust was blowing out of the bung but at 1200 it started to pull vacuum and kept vacuum at higher rpm's. My bung was 3/4" od. pipe cut at 45* and welded in after the muffler. I decided it was probibly causing back pressure at idle but not at higher rpm. The sad part is I sent my di chip to have it reprogramed to lower power because when I would get of the fuel the engine would surge. the reprograme helped but now I think I lost power for nothing any way now I just vent to atmosphere and the truck seems smoother. these are my findings and not fact.I think I havea picture of my ccv in my webshots (breather mod) |
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Elk Chaser, Wow, you really went all out and were quite thorough, great work. If you want to do more testing I have a couple of extra home made CCV units I made up and would be happy to send you one. I believe mine is less restrictive (and less expensive) than the Racor units. I vent mine just under my SP Intake air filter. Before that modification it vented to an elbow in the intake box, so it always has a little suction around it. Let me know, garyT |
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Sheeplenot I think the exhaust bungs that you can order from Jegs has a check valve, the problem is that if the exhaust delivers a positive pressure equal to or greater than the crankcase pressure of 0.2 (check valve or not) then the crankcase pressure is going to increase. Thanks for that info. GaryT I took a look at your pics of your CCV filter and I have to tell you that yours is nearly exactly like my custom made job. Only difference was that my inlet was on the top of the cap and the bottom had a screw in fitting for easy access and sealing. I'm soory to say it but I am real sure it will cause the exact same pressures as noted above under home made filters. I will be happy to test it for you, set up is still on the truck. PM me and we can work out the details. John |
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A couple photos of the crankcase pressure under driving conditions. At 60 MPH driving normally At 40 MPH Coasting |
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I think it is very inmportant to angle the bung and have the miter perfect, and have the check valve. Jegs and Summit both have that vac-u-pan kit very reasonably priced, and you get two kits so you can sell one to a buddy. I am not real sure about the high vacum causing seal failure as road race and circle track engines use a similar vac-u-pan system and I am not sure that those guys put up with oil leaks. I have to do something different becuase my open vent system that I thought was working is now dumping oil all over the place. 
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John, Excellent and very thorough testing! However, the filter media you used in the ccv4500 is the high density option (-08), which is intended for gasoline applications (or so I have heard). The -06 filter is intended for diesel applications, and is lower (medium) density. This would likely affect the crankcase pressure/vacuum levels you measured, probably tending to push them more toward neutral or vacuum with the lower density filter, due to less restriction. Do you have access to a -06 filter, and can you test that with the same settings? Thanks, Andy |
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So has anyone tried any testing with a a exhaust bung system to see what king of pressure of vacuum it develops? Elkchaser that was some really good testing by the way. Tom |
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What's the problem with just running an open ended hose? That's what I did.
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I think the possible pluses to the exhaust bung route is not dripping and it relocates the smell to the exhaust where it is also mixed in and diluted. I understand that many guys have not had any drips and not everyone complains about the oil smell. I would really like to hear of any test results. Tom |
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Great info Elk..! I too am going to have to print it out to digest it all. I like the detail you put into the research! Someone pointed out the IH just vents below the block. I had installed a IH dump tube and the smell was unbearable. While the amount of blow-by could certainly be proportional to the amount of cylinder/ring wear, I have about 90k on the motor and it seems to be in good health. Someone else mentioned that they tapped into the exhaust behind the muffler. I think it is arguable that there is greater potential for backpressure there, than near the exit of the tailpipe. I did the angle cut fitting in the tailpipe. I only tested pressure at idle and found that by plugging the CCV hose with a pressure gauge, pressure built quickly and well beyond the minimal pressure that was present in the tailpipe... Great write up that I am sure is even better when I get a chance to really read it in detail! Thanks and God Bless, TC BTW: In case it hasn't been mentioned, while pricy, Racor offers a 3500 that is purpose built to mount to the valve cover of a PSD! |
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Quote: Mine has been there almost two years. I can't see any difference between there or on the horizontal portion of the tailpipe. The venturi effect is the same. |
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ElkChaser, Great research and after reading this I have to share my experience with the 3550 made for our 7.3L diesels. Mine has been on the truck about 6K and I have been checking the filter minder every time I open the hood, which in our business is quite often. The filter minder never moved at all. About 2 weeks ago I noticed a 6" puddle of oil under the truck directly under the bell housing as well as a couple of smaller puddles. After crawling under the truck to see where it was coming from, I discovered it was from the rear main seal and dipstick connection in the pan mostly with a little from the top of my Premo vent. When I opened the Racor, I found the filter and bottom pad completely jammed full of oil to the point virtually no air could get past it. I would estimate that the filter and pad were probably holding a full cup of oil and now that it is cold even though I use synthetic the oil is pretty thick when cold and its only 7 miles to the shop so it never really warms up. Whether the cold is a factor or not, this set up did not function as expected. I decided to remove the Racor filter and reuse the housing on the valve cover, which I filled with course air filter foam. Then unbolted the CCV from the valve cover mount and loosened the intake hose to allow the CCV to be rotated with the CCV connection pointing up. Then the hose from the Racor was cut to make an "L" connection between the two. This eliminated any low spots where oil could collect and puddle. I plan to try this set up for awhile and see what happens. The immediate result was s slight seat of the pants improvement in performance and all the leaks stopped immediately. Apparently I caught this problem in time before real damage was done. For those using a 3550 or other CCV filter system, I would recommend checking and changing the filter often. |
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Hey Subman! Quote: No arguement here! And I don't know if the backpressure is really any greater there than in the tailpipe. I guess my thought (solely for the purpose of discussion) was that while the venturi effect is based on airflow across the opening, which would not be different in the two places, but don't you think the presence of pressure would directly counter the venturi effect. Again, I'm not criticizing your install or the positive results you are getting. After all, it is results we are after!  Carnut! Thanks for the heads up on the Racor 3500... wonder if Racor would want to know what you experienced? I received a PM regarding the factory IH "dump tube" so I thought I'd throw it out here since others might be wondering the same. I purchased the IH "Tube" for their application of the T444E. Their part number is 1823594C3 and it cost about $37, retail was listed at about $43. However it is a waste of money on a 97 and older trucks as there is not enough clearance between the firewall and the rear of the valve cover where the factory installed tabs would locate it using existing bolt holes in our heads. In your SD's that clearance problem may or may not exist. I ended up making a bracket that I attached to the two lower rear valve cover bolts and then attaching the IH tube, on it's tabs. This made the IH tube run over the side of the valve cover past the exhaust manifold. In the IH Factory configuration the v/c breather would still be rotated 180 degrees so it is rear facing and then connects to the IH tube with a straight piece of hose. When I mounted it to run down the side of the v/c, I utilized the Ford 90 degree hose. Here are some pics: This one best shows the attachment at the breather (as well as the absence of room between the firewall and v/c): IH tube connected to Ford 90 Degree hose This one shows the IH pipe running down past the exhaust manifold: Second view - IH Dump Tube Two final thoughts on the IH tube: One, in my installation the stink was so bad I connected a 3/4" heater hose and routed it to my tailpipe. Second, when you view the pics, remember that IH's intent was for this tube to run behind the head. That routing just doesn't work on earlier trucks, maybe you SD guys have more room. For perspective, here is a pic from below. You can see the black heater hose clamped to the end of the IH tube. I show this to say that the hose is covering about 2" of the IH tube, so you can picture where the tube dumps out. Bottom view - IH dump tube Sorry for being long-winded but I hope this helps. Heck, I like to know if the IH tube will fit in between the SD firewall and engine! God Bless, TC |
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I believe I understand what you are thinking. But it would take the complete plugging of the exhaust after the bung to force a backflow through the ccv piping to the engine. I feel confident that I will not place my truck in that condition. Even if the exhaust tip is submerged in water there should be sufficient flow bubbling out not to pressurize the crankcase. And that should only be a concern if the engine is at idle. I have pulled the hose off at the valve cover and could feel a suction being pulled with the engine idling. |
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Well, after reading this thread, and haveing a Racor CCV, I'm a bit Gun Shy. I inspected my Raycor the other night and it seems to be functional. Not plugged in any way. Never the less.. I'm concerned. I'v talked with some folks who have talked with a Racor Rep. Seemed to be somewhat dis-interested, and simply, stands behind their product. Said: you need to check or change the filter more often. (I thought thats what the red Filter Minder Button was for.) Anyway, I'm going to do what carnut57 is doing, Mod it and fill it with air filter foam.... I just hope Racor will get involved. JOE OBTW..... A BIG thanks for doing the testing........ |
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Subman! Quote: Wow, your install is more effective than mine. In the tailpipe, I have started the truck with just the fitting in (no check valve), and I could feel airflow, I hesitate to call it pressure but.... exhaust was coming back out my fitting...  Not much there, but flowing out...
Did you install your fitting like THIS? Thanks! TC Edited by TimC63 (01/13/05 08:08 PM) |
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Yes. Used this. And placed it here. I wonder if the Walker BTM I have makes a difference. |
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Quote:Actually I contacted our rep. who sells us Racor and the what they said was this can happen when the filter gets fouled. So I asked what the recommended interval for filter replacement would be since the filter minder cannot work when the fiber pad below the filter is plugged. The answer is no recommendation, just change the filter before it fouls and causes the problem. This was is a case of the classic no answer, answer. |
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okay guess im just slow or this is just over my head. can someone tell me the best way to do this, im going to be cleaning the intercooler and wouls like to do this mod thanks much |
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Elkchaser, great data. I wonder how the 3550 unit would compare. I've had mine in for about 8k miles. Had a few small leaks right after install but they stopped within a couple of weeks. I'm hesitant to change the filter before the indicator button says too, only because my leaks came when the filter was new. As I have posted previously in some other threads regarding this issue, like others have said, Racor has been very little help. I'm gonna inspect my filter this weekend and see how it looks. |
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This old thread has some very good info; you guys probably already know this but it appears that ElkChaser has not made a post on this website since 5/21/04. Not sure if he knows all of the thanks he is currently receiving!!! -Mike |
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CCV Mods/RacorCCV4500/Crankcase Pressures/Test Results
Re: CCV Mods/RacorCCV4500/Crankcase Pressures/Test Results
