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Todd Smith Walks Us Through Replacement of the Powerstroke Water Pump.
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Recently I noticed the water pump in my 1999 Ford F250 Super Duty was leaking. A small puddle of coolant would accumulate daily under the truck directly below the fan pully. I could also smell coolant while walking around the front of the vehicle, especially when the truck was running. I investigated further and found that the weep hole on the pump was leaking indicating that the pump would require replacement. Since I haven't been happy with the service from the local dealers, and the truck was still under warrantee... I had to make a decision. I concluded it would be best to perform this R/R myself. There was a $100 deductible anyway and it was worth the extra money in parts not have to do business with the dealer.
Finding the parts was relatively easy, but one should know that the price can vary quite a bit. I found a re-manufactured water pump from NAPA (lifetime warranty) for about $180. I have heard that Auto Zone may carry a re-man pump for this application for a bit less ($120), but there is limited availability. The price at the local International dealer was about $260. The Ford dealer price is about $400. Napa gave a lifetime warrantee on the pump so how could I argue.
This article describes the water-pump replacement process in detail. It requires about 3 hours. The truck should be allowed to fully cool before performing this job. Most people will be able to handle it by themselves, but understand that a few special tools are required.
Parts required for this job:
Water pump: NAPA part #58-554 ($180) (Includes the water pump molded seal)
Thermostat gasket: Ford Part #F4TZ-8255-A, NAPA Part #1106 ($1.00) (Pictured left)
Heater Hose Fitting O-Ring: Ford #1825293-C1 (International same number, <$1.00) (Pictured center)
Intake Pipe Gasket: Ford #F81Z-8255-AA <$1.00) (Pictured right)
(Optional) Thermostat - Obtain from Ford or International Dealer.
Teflon pipe thread sealant
4-gallons Distilled Water (~$1.00/gallon)
up to 4 pints FW-15/16 or DCA4 supplementary coolant additive (SCA).
4-gallons Anti-freeze Fleetrite #ZJJ996723A , about $7.00/gallon
(optional) High Temp RTV Permatex (black)
(optional) Assortment of Stainless Steel Hose Clamps to replace stock spring loaded clamps.
Special Tools required for this job:
1-7/8 inch open-end wrench for removal of the fan: A large pipe wrench would also work if you cannot obtain the wrench. Ford also specifies special tools for fan clutch removal, but the average "shade-tree mechanic" probably will not have access to those tools.
Instead, utilize a Strap wrench (to hold fan pulley for fan removal) or a universal pulley holder (likely available at your local auto parts store)
1-inch open/box end wrench for water pump heater hose fitting
19mm wrench for coolant sensor
The balance of tools are a mix of standard and metric hand tools.
Replacing the Water Pump:
Remove the negative battery terminal connections.
Loosen the pressure relief cap on the degas bottle (coolant reservoir).
WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine and/or result in personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the expansion tank when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.
Two five gallon pails or equivalent are required to drain the coolant. Place the pail under the drain valve at the left end of the radiator (drivers side). Open the radiator drain-cock and allow coolant to drain completely. ( Do Not remove the white knob from the drain-cock assembly.) About 80 percent of the coolant is drained from the system during this step. (Donít Forget that you will need to swap buckets after 4 gallons drains out so that the first does not overflow)
About 20 percent of the coolant is left in the engine. If total coolant replacement is required, locate the coolant drain plugs at the rear of the engine block and remove the plugs to drain any remaining coolant. Removing the starter makes draining the passenger side of the engine easier. Make sure your bucket is placed in the proper position, as the coolant will quickly run out of the block upon removing the plug.
At this point, you can optionally perform a cooling system flush. I won't cover this in detail, but an excellent reference article can be found HERE.
Apply fresh thread sealer to block coolant plugs and replace the block coolant plugs once the coolant has fully drained (and optional flush is complete). Tighten block drain plug to 12-18 lb/ft. Replace the starter if removed. Torque starter bolts to 20 lb/ft.
Remove the lug wrench and tools from above the radiator.
Remove the three bolts from the expansion tank and rotate it out of the way.
Squeeze the clamps from the upper radiator hose and remove the upper radiator hose. You may want to consider replacing the squeeze clamps at this time with stainless steel worm gear hose clamps. The spring-loaded clamps have a nasty habit of breaking at the worst place and time. IMHO, Those spring clamps should be outlawed!
Remove the serpentine drive belt at this time. Use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to relieve the belt tensioner. This will allow the belt to slip off the pulley.
Remove the fan and fan clutch from the water-pump pulley. The large clutch assembly has a right-hand thread and must be turned counter-clockwise in order to remove it. Hold on to the belt pulley with the strap wrench, and use a 1-7/8 inch open-end wrench to break the fan free. Once removed from the pulley, carefully lay the fan down into the shroud temporarily.
Remove the two fan shroud bolts using an 8mm socket/ratchet. Now pull the fan shroud/fan clutch/blade out as a unit. Be careful not to damage the radiator.
Disconnect the heater hose from the brass water-pump fitting.
Remove the three bolts (8mm socket) holding the thermostat cover. Leave the thermostat in the pump for now.
Remove the two bolts holding on the water inlet tube and remove the water inlet tube from the right side of the water pump.
Disconnect the water temperature sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect the camshaft position sensor (CMP) wiring harness pushpin from the water pump housing on the left side. Disconnect the CMP electrical connector from the sensor and position the wiring harness out of the way.
Remove the nine bolts holding the water pump. There are three long bolts denoted by "L", one medium length "M" bolt, and five short bolts. Remove the water-pump from the engine. You may have to tap the pump with a rubber mallet to dislodge the pump. Note the position of the Cam Position Sensor (CPS).
Clean the water-pump gasket surfaces.
Remove the old gasket from the water inlet tube. Clean the water inlet tube at both ends. A wire wheel works well for cleaning the hose end. Install the new seal on the inlet tube and install the tube into the new water pump. Tighten the two bolts to 18 lb/ft.
Inspect and clean the upper and lower radiator hose ends. Rust may accumulate here. Inspect the hoses and replace them if they show signs of rot or excessive wear.
Remove the pulley from the old pump. I used a 10mm socket/ratchet with a big screwdriver for this job. Install the pulley on the new water pump. Tighten the four bolts to 18 lb/ft.
Remove brass heater hose fitting from the old pump using a 1-inch box wrench. Remove the old o-ring and replace with a new o-ring. Install this brass fitting into the new pump. Tighten until snug.
Remove the thermostat from the old pump. It can be replaced with a new one if desired. If not, make sure the old thermostat is clean then install it into the housing. Be sure that the arrow is pointing to the rear bolt hole.
Place the new thermostat gasket into the groove, clean the discharge tube and then re-attach to water pump. Tightening each of the three screws to 15-20 lb/ft.
Remove the coolant sensor from the old pump using a 19mm wrench. Clean any old pipe sealant from the threads and apply some new pipe thread sealant. Install the sensor into the new pump and tighten until snug.
Remove the plug pointed to by the arrow on the right. Make sure to apply thread sealant on this plug and re-install into the new pump. Tighten until snug.
Here is a picture of the new pump, showing the molded o-ring assembly placed into the grooves. Inspect the perimeter of the new pump, making sure no metal protrusions stick out from the mating surfaces. A problem here could result in a leak after installation. You can remove any "bumps" with a small flat metal file. Make sure to remove the o-ring before filing though. Clean the o-ring grooves and mating surfaces before re-installing the o-ring. You may have to use a bit of high temp permatex (black) in a few strategic points to prevent the o-ring from falling out of the groove. My application did not require this because the o-ring was very cooperative.
Verify the water-pump gasket surface on the engine is clean. Install the new water pump onto the engine. Make sure that the pump o-ring stays in position.
Insure the bolts are placed into the correct positions (see above picture of bolt holes for correct bolt placement)
Tighten the water pump bolts to 15-22 lb/ft.
Install the heater hose on the brass water pump fitting..
Plug the electrical connector into the coolant sensor.
Plug the electrical connector into the CPS connector. Push the wiring harness pin into the water pump hole at the left side of the pump.
Connect the water inlet hose to the water inlet tube.
Install the fan/clutch/shroud assembly into the engine compartment. Do not forget to place the fan into the shroud before installing the shroud. Insure the two tabs at the bottom of the fan shroud engage correctly. Install the fan onto the water pump pulley. Using the strap wrench and 1-7/8 inch wrench, tighten the fan nut snug. Remove the strap wrench from the belt pulley.
Install the fan shroud bolts. Tighten the bolts to 80 lb/inch.
Install the serpentine belt. Use the diagram found to the right of the radiator for proper belt placement around the pulleys.
Install the upper radiator hose.
Install the expansion tank. Tighten the three bolts to 80 lb/inch.
Close the radiator drain valve.
Give the job a final once-over to verify all reinstallation steps are complete.
Add a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze/distilled water to the cooling system. Also add FW-16 at the rate of 4 ounces per gallon of coolant. I added about 6 gallons of coolant, so I added 24 ounces of FW-16 coolant additive. Install the pressure cap on top of the expansion tank.
Connect the negative battery terminal connections.
Move the temperature blend selector inside the cab to the full warm position (full clockwise).
Start and run the engine at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes or until it reaches operating temperature. Check for coolant leaks at this time.
Turn off the engine and allow cooling system to cool.
Add the proper coolant mixture to the expansion tank until the level is between min and max marks.
Repeat the above 3 steps until proper coolant level is obtained.
After a few days, test the SCA levels in the coolant by obtaining test strips or by submitting a coolant sample to a lab. Add FW-16 as required to bring the SCA level to 2-3 units. You can take a sample by briefly opening the radiator drain-cock.
Old water pump analysis:
I removed the weep hole cover on the old pump and found that the seal had been leaking. Premature pump seal failure is fairly common with these trucks. Possible reasons include poor seal quality control, excessive FW-16 levels, coolant contamination (water with high mineral content), or cooling system contamination (high casting sand content).
I will venture a guess my pump failed due to excessive SCA concentration. When tested, SCA's were at the high end of normal. In the future, I'll attempt to run at the low end of normal SCA levels. (2.0-2.5)
I also installed a coolant filter, shown at right, to combat some of the conditions that would lead to premature pump failure. I recommend using any brand of filter as long as it does not contain SCA charge (filter has no units of SCA).
I obtained my filter and base mount from my local International dealer. I found the brass fittings I needed at the local Home Depot. I fabricated a mounting bracket from a piece of 1/8" thick metal that I mounted to the inside fender. As you can see, there is not much room to put the filter.
For more on what a coolant filter can do for your truck reference this article HERE.
Shown here are the tap points into the heater hoses for the coolant filter. The hose on the right feeds the filter, and the hose on the left is the return from the filter. The filter contains a built-in orifice, which limits the amount of coolant flow diverted from the heater hoses. The orifice allows only a very small amount of coolant to bypass the heater core allowing the majority of coolant to flow to the heater core so that cab heat is not compromised.
When the filter is replaced on a yearly basis, it can greatly increase the service time of seals, hoses and especially the water pump. The coolant filter is a wonderful piece of equipment that can extend the life of the water pump and other cooling system wear parts far enough that having to use this article more than once might never be necessary.
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