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Install a Power Inverter

Mike Meier

Per the requests received, I have assembled detailed digital pictures of the installation of the STATPOWER PROwatt 1500 inverter into a 1999 F-250 PSD. This is the only unit I could find that would fit under the passenger seat and still maintain the required distance for cooling. It fullfills all my power needs for my hunting and recreation needs plus plenty of spare power.


  1. The primary reason for inverters not fuctioning properly is the distance of the inverter from the battery connection and the size of the supply cable conducting the DC power from the battery to the inverter. This installation has eliminated these possible problems and has functioned properly since it's installation. (I can say that, as I put it in!)
  2. The inverter eliminates the hassle of transporting a gas generator and all the support supplies necessary to keep it running. (And the inverter is less expensive.)
  3. All wires MUST be protected from chaffing.
  4. Connections to the passenger side battery must be secure and then coated with dialectric grease to maintain the conductive properties and eliminate corrosion on the terminals.
  5. J.C. Whitney catalog has a very good chart that describes the power requirements for various eletrical items in relation to use of an inverter. They also carry the inverter I installed.
  6. I did not install a seperate battery isolator as I run the PSD when I use the inverter. This eliminates the need for more batteries.
  7. The 1500 PROwatt has an internal mechanism for sensing battery voltage and will not let you discharge it below starting capabilty. It also has a high AMP or heat sensor that shuts the unit off if you are trying to run too many items.
  8. The gauge on the unit indicates the inverter use in AMPS and load. The unit has a 3000 watt peak start up.
  9. The unit also has a remote start button that I have placed in my slide-in camper. I remote start the truck, then turn on the inverter. The next step is to switch my camper over to TRANS and I now run my 110vac coffee pot, lights, radio, and charge my camper battery all at the same time.
  10. This installation hides the unit (with the exception of the receptical) and prevents it from damage.
  11. The 1/0 wire will have to be trimmed to fit into the unit connections. ONLY trim the required amount to get the wire into the lug connections. This large cable prevents any voltage drops/resistance from the battery AC current.


  • 18 feet of 1/0 stranded welding cable/battery lugs-Local welding supply house $1.19 per foot. Lugs @ $1.00
  • 20 feet 12/3 outdoor wire-Home Base(HB) $2.08 per foot
  • GFI duplex recepticle/outdoor cover/outdoor box/water tight elbow/-HB $16.00
  • Wire grommets-HB $2.00
  • Telephone juction box/20 foot 4 conductor phone cable/silicone to seal/-HB $10.00
  • 8 gauge (6 inches) ground wire/terminal ends-HB $3.00
  • PROwatt 1500 inverter- Approx. $500.00
  • Aluminum inverter mounting plate/kick cover/ bed mounting bracket- A few beers to your metals shop buddies???
  • Misc. - Screws/bolts to mount the inverter to the plate, scews/bolts to mount the bed bracket and related gear, bolt to attach ground, wire ties to secure cables, electrical tape to wrap the remote cable to the 12/3 wire, red tape to indicate the polarity of the 1/0 wire, hole saw for floor (yes you get to cut a hole in your new truck!), silicone to seal around the wire grommets, door trim edge guard material to protect wires as they come out underneath the truck.

I am not a Stat-Power rep., but really like this unit.

Editor Note: These pictures are quite large, so I'm listing this as a series of links. If I shrink them, you won't be able to see them as well. Click on each to see them.

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