Click to Visit

TDS Logo USA Flag
Blank Space TheDieselStop.Com is a source of information, discussion, and help pertaining to the full line of Ford trucks, SUVs, and vans with International diesels. We cover everything from the original F-250s with 6.9L diesels all the way up to the newest 2008 Super-Duty trucks with the new 6.4L Power Stroke engine. Blank Space

Blank Space
Menu
home
contents
forums
calendar
faqs
editors
archives
links
photos
for sale
downloads
therapy
search
utils
contact
advertising
about
 
Blank Space

Radiator Hose Retrofit

Source:
Steve Pepin
steven-p@sbcglobal.net


An inexpensive and easy fix for the engineering oversight present in single alternator Superduties, where the upper radiator hose passes through the serpentine belt.

Click Photos to see Larger Images.

The 1999 and newer Super Duty Pickup Trucks come with one of two styles of upper radiator hose. If you ordered your truck with the dual alternator option, then you need not read any further. This article does not apply to you, as FoMoCo was thinking with both halves of their collective brain the morning when they designed your truck. The rest of us, the single alternator population, might consider this inexpensive remedy to a simple engineering oversight. It seems that if we want (or need) to change our serpentine belt, we must partially drain the radiator and remove the upper radiator hose, since it passes through the serpentine belt. Not such a bad job when you are in the comfort of your driveway. Try doing it on the road, at night, in the rain, with a hose full of HOT coolant spitting all over you. You will be wishing you spent the roughly $13.00, and did this 30 minute procedure the previous weekend.

Here's a photo of the original single-alternator style hose. Notice how it is routed through the belt.

In order for you to take on this project, the first thing you will need is the new upper radiator hose. It's part number F81Z-8260-CA, and I paid $13.42 for mine. It comes with new hose clamps already glued in place and locked in the open position. Next, you will need a good clean bucket and to position it under the petcock, located in the bottom of the radiator. Insure the engine is cool and then drain about three gallons of coolant out of the system. While the coolant is draining, get a pair of Channel Lock (or similar) pliers and expand the hose clamps on the upper hose you will be removing. The hose clamps have a "hook" that the ear of the clamp will lock into which will retain the clamp in the open position. After the three gallons of coolant is drained, remove the old hose. Do this by first twisting the hose ends until free and then pulling the ends off. Pulling the hose to loosen it from the radiator housing can bend the light gauge steel upper radiator housing connected to the engine. Bending this can cause leakage in the thermostat gasket. After removing the old hose, install the new hose by routing it around the right side of the belt and under the alternator, as shown in the photo left. Release the locked clamps and you are all set. The hose when placed in this position requires something to keep it from accidentally moving into the belt path. Be sure to retain the hose with a Tie-Wrap or similar at the end of the alternator bracket casting. If you click on the left photo you will see a larger photo which will show the use of two narrow Tie-Wraps. I later replaced them with one tie wrap that was considerably wider. The wider Tie-Wrap allows more pressure to spread out along a larger surface and places less strain on that portion of the hose. This will help prevent premature hose failure. Also, don't tighten the tie wrap too much or it will bite into the hose once the hose becomes hot and expands. Just pull the tie wrap until the slack is taken up.

Once the hose is fully installed, get a large, clean funnel and replace as much coolant as possible. You can re-use the coolant that you drained out as long as it stays clean. It may be difficult to replace all of the coolant you drained, because the thermostat is closed. Start up the engine and run the RPMs up to around 1200 for a few minutes, or drive around the block to bring up the coolant temperature and allow the thermostat to open. The coolant level will drop and you can pour the remaining coolant back in.

Blank Space
Blank Space

Ad Image
Newest Articles
'05-'06 High Idle by StuartV
Great instructions how to modify an '05-'06 upfitter switch into an AIC.

6L Shootout Reports by Ralph Landau
Results and conclusions from Ford 6.0 Liter Shootout held on 9/3/2005 in Nashville.

1999-2004 $10/$15 AIC by Rob Milnes
Rob Milnes walks us through building and installing a $10-15 AIC on a late-model Power Stroke.

Ceramic Coating by Clive Buttrey
Clive Buttrey (cbuttre835) explains do-it-yourself ceramic coating on his 1997 Power Stroke.

Proper Tire Inflation by Dave Rais
Dave Rais (Homegrown) explains how to properly inflate your tires.

More Articles


This page has been accessed Error