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Maintenance
Oil Change
Automatic Transmission
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Rear Differential
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Part Numbers

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Turbo Bolt Wiring

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Oil Change

This is how to do a basic Lube, Oil, and Filter Change on a 1999 and up PSD truck

Parts and Supplies Needed: 15qts (Approx)  CH-4 Grade Oil 15W-40 for warmer climates, 10W-30 for colder temps 1 Oil Filter 19mm Socket/Wrench Oil Fiter Wrench 15+ quart collection pan to catch and recycle old oil Grease Gun Sharp, Pointy Object (Optional) Shop Vac (Optional)

Ok, there are two ways to start this, I have tried one. Version 1: Place collection pan under the drain bolt (right) and proceed to loosen the bolt to allow the oil to flow into the pan Version 2: Open the oil fill hole on the top of the engine, place the shop vac nozzle over the hole so that it looks like it is sucking out the old engine oil. Turn on the shop vac... Place collection pan under the drain bolt (right) and proceed to loosen the bolt to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Supposedly, the shop vac will hold the old oil into the pan until you turn the vac off. Turn off the vac and the oil will flow out.

After you have done step one... Clean the bolt and hole of residue and gunk Replace the washer if necessary Put the bolt back in and tighen firmly (Don't overtighten) It is now time to change the filter. You can do this one of two ways. Loosen the oil filter with the wrench spin the oil counter clockwise until is about to come free. Hold it upright and spin it off. It will weigh alot since it holds more than a couple of quarts of oil. Hope that you don't spill it while dumping it in the pan. What I do before hand is poke a hole in the bottom of the filter before I loosen it. It drains all the oil out and makes it much easier to work with once it is loose (See left). I then loosen the filter and remove it.

While you are under there and the filter is draining, you may want to do the "Lube" part of the Lube, Oil, and Filter change. Get your grease gun and lube the four points on the truck. The Four Points Are: Left Wheel (Top) Right Wheel (2nd From Top) Steering arm, Upper (2nd From Bottom) Steering arm, Lower (Bottom) One good shot of grease in each fitting should do the trick. Try not to pop the fittings because that is a bad thing.

After the filter has drained and you have removed it from the truck, it is time to replace it. You need to prefill the filter to prevent oil starvation upon initial startup. About 1-1.5 quarts will do. If the filter has to fill when the engine is starting up, there is a time lapse between the engine cranking, and the lubrication it needs getting there (Top Picture). Also, you may want to smear a little fresh oil around the seal on the filter to ensure the filter is fully sealed (Bottom Picture). Screw the filter on about 1-1/4 turns past contact. This is enough to tighten the filter. This concludes all that needs to be done under the vehicle!

Time to fill the crankcase with oil. Remove the black oil filler cap and use the funnel (Or, maybe don't use the funnel if you are really talented :) ) to fill the crankcase with 8 quarts of oil. Remember, you already put 1-1.5 quarts in the filter, so after adding 8 more, you will have roughly 9 quarts of oil in the system, plus any old oil that didn't drain out. After filling the crankcase, put the cap back on and start the engine. Let it run for about 30 seconds so the oil can get circulated through the system. Check the dip stick and procede to fill the engine until the dipstick shows full. You may need to start the engine every now and then to circulate the oil. Remember, if you go over 15 quarts, you have a problem. You have now changed your oil, filter, and lubed your truck!