| SENDING UNITS |
| Pyrometer |
| First find a suitable spot for mounting
the pyrometer probe.
I recommend doing this pre-turbo as near to the head as
possible. This will give you the most accurate reading.
Post turbo temps can vary from 200-400 degrees so it is near
impossible to know just when you are getting too hot. The
driver's side exhaust manifold is a good location because it is
close to the head and will give the most accurate reading.
I recommend not drilling a pilot hole as this will keep the
shavings from entering the manifold. Drill an 11/32" hole
slowly and be ready to pull back as soon as you break through to
avoid getting metal shavings into the manifold. |
 |
| Using a 1/8" NPT (national pipe
thread) tap thread the hole. Use ample grease on the tap
to avoid getting metal shavings into the manifold. |
 |
| Install fitting into hole and tighten. |
 |
 |
Install probe into fitting and
tighten. Slide shrink wrap over wires and connect
staggered terminal end of sending unit wires together.
Pull shrink wrap over connectors and heat with a heat gun or
lighter. If using a lighter be careful not to ignite any
grease/oil in the area around the wires and make sure to move
the flame around so as not to burn through the shrink wrap. |
| Find a suitable location to drill a
hole in the firewall to run wire through. On E4OD-equipped
trucks, the clutch block-off plate makes a very nice location as
it can be replaced if you decide to remove the wires and holes
for resale or any other reason. Get a grommet large enough
for all wires needing to run through the firewall. Drill a
hole of the appropriate size. Make sure there are no wires
or anything else on the opposite side of the firewall that may
be cut when the drill bit breaks through to the other side.
Install grommet in hole. Run the wires through the hole
and route up to gauge mount keeping away from all moving parts
and sharp edges. Put wire loom over wires where they are
on outside of cab to protect them. |
 |
| Boost |
| There area couple of ways to install
the boost line. First you can "T" into the MAP sensor line
and second you can drill and tap a hole in the intake and
install fittings to mount the hose. I chose to drill and
install a fitting in the aluminum Y-pipe used with my
intercooler. For applications without the intercooler, it
will be easier to "T" into the MAP line unless you have
performed the MAP mod.
Start by deciding where you want to mount the fitting. In
my case the Y-pipe was the best solution. Remove the
Y-pipe or whatever you are going to drill the hole into so you
don't get metal shavings in your intake. Drill an 11/32"
hole and tap with a 1/8" NPT tap. Clean all metal shavings
out of the part. Put thread sealer on the fitting and
install into the hole.
Install sealing nut and ferral onto hose. Insert hose into
fitting until it seats. Slide ferral into fitting and
screw sealing nut onto the fitting. Run the boost hose
into the cab through the hole used to run the pyrometer wires
and up to the gauge mount. Cover the hose with wire loom
to protect it where it is under the hood. |
 |
| Transmission Temperature |
| Install the transmission temperature
gauge sending unit in the pressure port on the driver's side of
the transmission near the second oil pan bolt from the front.
Place something under the plug to catch any transmission fluid
that may run out of the hole. Put thread sealer on the
threads of the sending unit. Use a 7/16" wrench to remove
the plug in the pressure port. remove the plug and quickly
install the sending unit to minimize ATF loss and tighten.
Don't worry, it won't come gushing out, it will just seep out.
Attach eyelet or forked connector to the end of the wire used
for the transmission temperature sending unit and attach to the
sending unit. |
 |
| Route the wire over to the frame rail
making sure it doesn't rest on the driveshaft and up along the
pyrometer wires and through the grommet in the firewall and then
finally up to the gauge mount. |
 |
| Put wire loom over the wire to protect
it. I ran mine through a portion of a factory wire loom
along the frame rail to save on wire loom and cut down on the
number of separate wires running along the frame. This
also gives it more of a factory look. |
 |
| POD PREP |
| If painting is desired, it must be
done prior to installing the gauges. Start by thoroughly
cleaning the gauge pod. Use a good plastic cleaner such as
Plastic Prep 38353 by SEM. Use an adhesion modifier such
as Sand Free 98353 before painting. Follow the directions
on the can for application. Paint the gauge pod using even
strokes starting and stopping the spray before and after the
nozzle is aimed at the pod. This will help keep splotches
from forming and running on the gauge pod. Use several
light coats rather than one or two heavy coats for better
coverage and less chance of runs. To paint the push pins,
drill six 3/16" holes into a piece of cardboard and put the push
pins in the holes just far enough so that they will stand on
their own. Do not push the pins completely in. This
will make it harder to get the pins out without scratching the
paint. |
 |
| Put thread sealer on the boost gauge
fitting and install the adapter on the fitting. If using
thread tape, put the thread tape on the adapter. Install
the desired color covers on light bulbs. Hold the gauge
pod up to the location it will be mounted and install the gauges
into the gauge pod so they are level.
To minimize the number of wires being run, connect all the
positive wires together and all the ground wires together for
the gauge lights and the positive wires together and the ground
wires together for the pyrometer and transmission temperature
gauge. Connect the ground wires for the lights with the
ground wires for the gauges so you have one common ground wire
going to the gauge pod.
Install the sealing nut then ferrel on the boost hose. Put
the hose in the adapter on the boost gauge until it seats and
then slide the ferrel into the adaptor and screw the nut onto
the adapter and tighten. |
 |
| Crimp the eyelet or fork connector on
the end of the wire being used for the transmission temperature
gauge and install it onto the sensor terminal on the gauge.
Install the pyrometer wires onto the back of the pyrometer
making sure to install the right colors to the right terminal.
Zip tie all wires and the boost hose together in a bundle. |
 |
| The directions for the gauge pod say
the gauges are press fit and don't require the holders that go
on the backs of the gauges. While the gauges are pretty
secure, I didn't want them to pop out if I am ever mudding or
bajaing the truck so I decided to install the holders anyway.
One let of the gauge holders won't fit using the A-pillar gauge
pod. To remedy this, cut one leg off as close to the hole
as possible. Round the edge you just cut off. |
 |
| Install one nut on the inner mounting
stud and screw it down so 1/4"-3/8" of the thread is showing.
This will help keep the holder straight on the gauge.
Install the holder onto the gauge and tighten down with the
other nut. |
 |
| I recommend installing bullet or
similar connectors on all wires near the bottom of the gauge pod
so, if for any reason, the gauge pod needs to be removed, it can
be done easily without having to disconnect all the wires from
the gauges. Alternate male and female connectors between
positive and negative wires to avoid accidentally hooking them
up backwards. For the boost hose, use one fitting with
male 1/4" NPT threads and one fitting with female 1/4" NPT
threads hooked together. |
 |
| Now you've pre-wired your gauges and
they are ready for installation into the truck.
Remove the stock A-Pillar trim piece and hold the gauge pod up
to it. Note where the gauge mounting brackets hit the
gauge pod. Cut recesses in the stock trim panel for
mounting brackets to stick through. |
 |
| Cut a hole at the bottom of the stock
trim panel for the wires to run through. |
 |
 |
Hold the gauge pod tight to the stock
trim panel and drill 3/16" holes to install the trim clips.
I put one behind each pod and two on the front edge between the
pods so they would all be fairly well hidden. I recommend
putting the ones on the front edge over some as when I installed
the gauge pod, the door weather stripping wants to push these
trim clips back out. |
 |
Drill 11/32" holes where the mounting
holes are in the stock panel. For a more factory look,
counter sink the holes so the screws sit flush in the holes. |
| Run the gauge power wires to the
in-cab fuse box from the bottom of the A-pillar. Once all
the wires are run to the pods, crimp the mating connectors to
the wires. |
 |
| Connect all the wires. Tuck the
wires in behind the gauge pod and fit the gauge pod in place.
Once all the wires are tucked in and none are pinched or
sticking out, screw the gauge pod into place. I waited
until this point to drill the last hole that attaches to the
trim piece that goes across the top of the windshield so I would
know the exact location that the hole needed to be drilled.
Remove the driver's side kick panel by removing the forward-most
screw of the sill plate and pulling the end of the kick panel
out from under the sill plate and then pulling the trip clip out
on the side of the panel and pulling the panel straight back.
Run the ground wire straight down under the kick panel and crimp
the eyelet or fork terminal to the end of the wire and attach to
the factory ground bolt just under the hood release.
Reinstall the kick panel. Instal a fuse tap on the lower
terminal of the #10 fuse and attach the power wire for the gauge
lights using a female spade connector. Install a fuse tap
on the lower terminal of the #17 fuse and attach the power wire
for the pyrometer and transmission temperature gauge using a
female spade connector. |
 |
| Other Mounting Options |
 |
