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who else makes a trailer like this?

13K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  Dualie 
#1 ·
OK im going to drop the hammer on a 10 TON deck over gooseneck trailer to supplement my Murray 16 Tire detachable neck lowbed. I currently have a 14K P&J low profile tilt deck now and its way to light for my application and I hate the way it pulls loaded.

IM looking to get either power hydraulic Full tilt or powered hydraulic beaver tail.

this trailer will need to haul everything from forklifts, man lifts, scissor lifts, tractors, cars, trucks, containers, beams, hay, you name it.

MINIMUM SPECS.

Dual 10K Dexter oil bath axles with electric over hydraulic brakes. Debating on weather or not I want single point, walking beams or traditional springs.

W12x19 (12" x 19Lb ft.) I beam frame. cross members on 12" or less centers.

Brake away switch with charge indicator.

Extra height neck to clear moderately lifted pickups if needed.

both would have to have dock levelers to raise the rear up to move a forklift from the trailer to a loading dock.

both of them would need to be full hydraulic operation with two 6 volt battery's.

provisions for mounting a winch later on if I so choose.

dual landing gear.

HD rub rail with chain pockets. AND recessed D rings in the deck.

Load lights on the neck platform.

ALL LED lighting with Dual STT's and a mid ship turn signal.

Beaver tail LIKE THIS would have to be 25' with at least 10' BI-FOLD tail to keep the load angle down. and a torque tube running back to the tail hinges.

Tilt deck LIKE THIS would idealy need to be around 28'

So far the only manufacturers I have found are Brute and Mauer.

I don't want to get a trailer built by someone who has never built a trailer like this before. I don't want to end up being there guinny pig a thousand miles away from the factory.

I could build my own in shop with my employees but I make more money doing what I do daily than I could possibly save by building it myself and taking the time away from my core business.
 
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#2 ·
All requested items available here Tilt Deck except hinged for dock loading but, Call, it may be available and just not pictured. Logistics could be a problem for you though.
 
#3 ·
You're on the wrong coast for me to recommend anyone, but seems like Brute would be a great option. I would think the full tilt trailer wouldn't really fit your needs for getting forklifts onto loading docks. The dove tail tilt can do that, but it seems like there is more to go wrong with a setup like that. I'd think you'd need a minimum 25k GVWR with all the options you are talking about. I think that Brute is also offering an option of adjustable sliding axles to dial in the correct tongue weight for odd loads. Seems like you're looking at a $17k plus trailer
 
#4 ·
I had A trail king 45' beaver tail Before I dropped the hammer on the lowbed it was mainly for moving the gradall. I picked up a grove RT crane and it was a no go on the beaver tail.

I need something more practical to haul forklifts and man lifts. I want the Short wheel base to get me in and out of san Francisco and Berkeley city streets. I really want something similar to THIS in a beaver tail or THIS in a tilt deck.

I just don't need the extra length and weight that both those trailers have behind a semi. I want something I can pull with a two axle tractor or a 550 with a 12'-14' flatbed.

I would LOVE to see some pics of the brute with the sliding axles! that sounds like it would be perfect for what im trying to do. Do they slide in tandem or just the one axle? I wonder what the weight penalty is for that option.

I'm leaning more towards the full tilt deck. IM pretty sure I will have to forgo the dock levelers with the full tilt deck.

I know I will be over weight with the Gradall but that will be the very odd trip as it rides the lowbed fine 99% of the time.

Last I heard the quality of Kaufman trailers wasn't that great. I think just before Dukes2fords moved on he bought a kaufman and was really dissatisfied when it actually showed up. I really cant take the chance of shipping one across the country sight unseen to only have it show up here a total POS.

I was thinking around the $13K range but I would pay a couple of bucks more for a trailer Built how I want like it want with no corners cut anywhere. I want this to be the do all trailer for everything ELSE that the lowbed isn't practical for.
 
#5 ·
You're thinking of a different Kaufman than this small family owned.
 
#6 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dualie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...
Last I heard the quality of Kaufman trailers wasn't that great. I think just before Dukes2fords moved on he bought a kaufman and was really dissatisfied when it actually showed up. I really cant take the chance of shipping one across the country sight unseen to only have it show up here a total POS...
</div></div>

Your right on Dualie. A couple years back I called Kaufman and made a deal on a extisting trailer he had in the yard. For some reason I thought I best call a week before leaving and reconfirm my buy. He had sold the trailer to someone else!!! AND it would be 3wks before he could get another trailer ready. AND I said "it'll be a cold day in heII before I ever buy a trailer from you"

And yes, I tried to get him to accept a CC for payment but his reply " I can't sell something that I don't have a vin number for". Yep, he is the one that apply's the vin numbers when you buy the vehicle!!!

Where I think I would put forth my effort is too find a tilt trailer to fit my needs then add on a extended lift gate for the dock work.

One item you didn't spec in your design wants, is a 6" torque tube. A torque tube keeps the front of the trailer deck flat if load weight is placed momentary off the trailer deck center line. A 6"sch40 torque tube adds about $300 to the cost at todays steel/labor prices.

Another item to consider is electric landing gear. Camping World has 3000# electric tongue jacks onsale for $130eh for a 6000# total 18" weight lift for dual electric jacks. Add a 12v relay, DPDT switch and a deep cycle battery and your done. I'd keep the mechanical gear for back-up! I'm not happy with my Bulldog landing gear as they take to much applied effort for up/down use.

From my design engineering handbook, on a 24ft deck, using 12"/27lb I-beam would increase your design load weight capicity by approx 64% and only add 384lbs to the net trailer weight VS using 12"/19lb I-beam /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

You may not need the extra load weight capicity, but a stronger frame will last longer on your type of loads.

Another pip of mine is GN couplers. A 5th wheel bolster plate adds greater side to side stability to a trailer than a GN coupler. The larger the bolster plate diameter the more stability. Hitching up is 10 times easier with 5th hitching. If you already have a GN coupler just have a new king pin welded to a stem then remove the GN coupler and replace with the king pin stub.

Besure and check the center of axles to the pin distance between different mfg's. A longer pin to axle center line, pulls more stable but adds pin weight. How much pin weight depends on the trailer design and the type of axle suspension used.

I would also consider using a all steel deck vs wood as steel will last longer with less maintance. For a cheap anti-slip deck surface, throw sand onto the wet paint then blow off the excess sand when the paint dries then repaint the deck to keep the sand fast.

On Edit) Also make sure you get the Dexter forward self adjusting brakes as that works very well.
 
#7 ·
Two different Kaufmans I believe.
Kaufman I

Kaufman Trailers II

I just bought a Kaufman Trailer. The second link. It isn't a great trailer, but it is ok. I don't think you would be happy with the trailer, and I don't think they would even build the style you want. They have limited options and don't seem to go beyond them. I think their building process is fairly streamlined and basic. To keep their prices down.
 
#8 ·
Go to http://www.brutetrailers.com. Then call and talk with them. They are a family owned business in North East Texas. Quality of their trailers is superb. Prices are very good. I bought a 28" flat deck a couple of years ago and have been nothing but pleased.
 
#9 ·
Definately want to go torque tube im sure.

My minimum specs were W12x19 beam so W12x23 would be better.

defininately getting two speed landing gear with a power option.

also a solar panel on the neck to keep the batterys charged wouldnt be a bad idea seeing how this thing will be out in the back lot most of the time.

i want to keep the loaded height down to under 34" if possible.

I really want the gooseneck coupler but it would be super easy to slip out the GN coupler and throw in a 5th wheel plate.

OH and something new to add to the list is i want Rumber decking. not wood or steel.

maybe I should just drop the coin and get the whole damn thing galvanized while im at it and have the last trailer im ever going to need?
 
#10 ·
TXGooseneck is a member on here. He works at Brute Trailers. He should definitely be able to help you out.

I read about their adjustable axles on ebay a month or so ago.
 
#11 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NickKent</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Two different Kaufmans I believe.
Kaufman I

Kaufman Trailers II

I just bought a Kaufman Trailer. The second link. It isn't a great trailer, but it is ok. I don't think you would be happy with the trailer, and I don't think they would even build the style you want. They have limited options and don't seem to go beyond them. I think their building process is fairly streamlined and basic. To keep their prices down.
</div></div>Correct. 'I' products are labeled KTS, a small family owned mfr, they have custom built many quality trailers for us over the years priced reasonably with extensive options available. Originally located in Kaufman, Tx, not to be confused with Kaufman in NC.
 
#12 ·
OK I think when I get the final check off this last job im going to pick up a new truck and give Brute a call.

Unless anyone else has any better ideas I think a brute is they way to.

I am second guessing my TRUE need for a full power tilt though. I wonder if I could get away with just a hold valve or am I going to regret not going whole hog and getting the full power tilt?

I wish I could see some pictures of their sliding axle setup though.
 
#13 ·
well a heavy duty sliding axle will do you fine they use them to tow bigrigs sometimes (totaled ones) and they hold up well
the full tilt will be one of those things you do not need but get because you can
wth the tilt you will find so many more uses for it (ramp in the general lee) and others that everyone does but it will come in handy

now full vs just dovetail id say depends on the load the dovetail will give you the bump making a steamroller low car etc. hard to get on it
 
#14 ·
I would think on a trailer that size that you definitely want the power tilt. If you don't have it and need to lift tilt something without the weight in the right spot you will regret it.
 
#15 ·
I have run a sliding axle trailer their nothing new. they make transporting transit busses much easier their also the cats meow for moving empty storage containers and van trailers with the axles ripped out.

I have seen sliding axle trailers with the rails bent and rams broken.

I Think XL specialized and Trail King are making a spread adjustable slider for CA now. You can spread the tandems 10' apart to get the legal 20K on each axle or close them up and slide them forward to dump the load on the deck.

I have all but ruled out the beaver tail.


I would still like to see some pics of the light duty slider axle setup. The thing that worries me is if the slider wasn't engineered to the T it could make an otherwise great trailer JUNK.
 
#16 ·
Hi dualie,

I think your cheapest cost will be having a flat deck frame built to your spec's then adding a hydraulic after market roll back bed. This would give you the strongest of both designs with the least amount of hassel.

For the frame mfg, I'd check the trailers made around Dallas,TX as there delivered prices are hard to beat. My 40ft Legend trailer cost $400 less than it would have cost me for parts with my free labor. I think you could get a 24ft deck frame built for around $5k to your spec's. I have no idea what roll back decks cost.

My 32ft deck cost me $6400 out the door in 2005. I talked with him in 2006 and his priced had only increased $200 from 2005. His workmanship is excellant tho! I'm a AWS Certified Weld Inspector and commented his welding was way above other mfg brands that I had looked at.




/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
#17 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: T_Bone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a AWS Certified Weld Inspector</div></div>

You ever get around to tacking those horse heads on your trailer? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
#18 ·
I've been hammered lately so not a lot of surf time. You linked one of our trailers in your first post. We build tilts, hyd. dovetails (both single and compound fold), sliding axle/broken neck trailers and so on.

Email me everything you are looking for and I can get a quote sent over to you. sean@brutetrailers.com
 
#19 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: T_Bone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi dualie,

I think your cheapest cost will be having a flat deck frame built to your spec's then adding a hydraulic after market roll back bed. This would give you the strongest of both designs with the least amount of hassel.

For the frame mfg, I'd check the trailers made around Dallas,TX as there delivered prices are hard to beat. My 40ft Legend trailer cost $400 less than it would have cost me for parts with my free labor. I think you could get a 24ft deck frame built for around $5k to your spec's. I have no idea what roll back decks cost.

My 32ft deck cost me $6400 out the door in 2005. I talked with him in 2006 and his priced had only increased $200 from 2005. His workmanship is excellent tho! I'm a AWS Certified Weld Inspector and commented his welding was way above other mfg brands that I had looked at.




/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
</div></div>

I thought about that but I don't think I can afford the extra deck height. The rails of the roll back would add another 6"-8" I have a buddy that's a JER-DAN dealer and contemplated getting a 3 axle truck with a 26' industrial carrier.

I do a fair amount of work for him doing "Custom" stuff for wreckers and roll backs. Also running a roll back from a 12 volt Electric pump would be insanely slow. IT would drive me nuts! Adding a wet kit to the truck would sort of defeat the purpose of getting a gooseneck in the first place which is ease of use between trucks.

I had my ASME 6G papers since I was 17. I'm sort of a stickler for a quality weld. You don't even want to get me started on the "quality" or lack there of in aluminum trailers.
 
#20 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dualie</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: T_Bone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi dualie,

I think your cheapest cost will be having a flat deck frame built to your spec's then adding a hydraulic after market roll back bed. This would give you the strongest of both designs with the least amount of hassel.

For the frame mfg, I'd check the trailers made around Dallas,TX as there delivered prices are hard to beat. My 40ft Legend trailer cost $400 less than it would have cost me for parts with my free labor. I think you could get a 24ft deck frame built for around $5k to your spec's. I have no idea what roll back decks cost.

My 32ft deck cost me $6400 out the door in 2005. I talked with him in 2006 and his priced had only increased $200 from 2005. His workmanship is excellent tho! I'm a AWS Certified Weld Inspector and commented his welding was way above other mfg brands that I had looked at.




/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
</div></div>

I thought about that but I don't think I can afford the extra deck height. The rails of the roll back would add another 6"-8" I have a buddy that's a JER-DAN dealer and contemplated getting a 3 axle truck with a 26' industrial carrier.

I do a fair amount of work for him doing "Custom" stuff for wreckers and roll backs. Also running a roll back from a 12 volt Electric pump would be insanely slow. IT would drive me nuts! Adding a wet kit to the truck would sort of defeat the purpose of getting a gooseneck in the first place which is ease of use between trucks.

I had my ASME 6G papers since I was 17. I'm sort of a stickler for a quality weld. You don't even want to get me started on the "quality" or lack there of in aluminum trailers.</div></div>


Well you can have a drop frame built that would be close including your 8" for the RB.

As to the wet pump, just set it up with quick disconnects at the pin like we do on tractor rear hydraulics for implement usage.




/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
#21 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chyrel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: T_Bone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a AWS Certified Weld Inspector</div></div>

You ever get around to tacking those horse heads on your trailer? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif </div></div>


Not yet but it's aroundtoit project this year!





/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
#22 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: T_Bone</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dualie</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: T_Bone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi dualie,

I think your cheapest cost will be having a flat deck frame built to your spec's then adding a hydraulic after market roll back bed. This would give you the strongest of both designs with the least amount of hassel.

For the frame mfg, I'd check the trailers made around Dallas,TX as there delivered prices are hard to beat. My 40ft Legend trailer cost $400 less than it would have cost me for parts with my free labor. I think you could get a 24ft deck frame built for around $5k to your spec's. I have no idea what roll back decks cost.

My 32ft deck cost me $6400 out the door in 2005. I talked with him in 2006 and his priced had only increased $200 from 2005. His workmanship is excellent tho! I'm a AWS Certified Weld Inspector and commented his welding was way above other mfg brands that I had looked at.




/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
</div></div>

I thought about that but I don't think I can afford the extra deck height. The rails of the roll back would add another 6"-8" I have a buddy that's a JER-DAN dealer and contemplated getting a 3 axle truck with a 26' industrial carrier.

I do a fair amount of work for him doing "Custom" stuff for wreckers and roll backs. Also running a roll back from a 12 volt Electric pump would be insanely slow. IT would drive me nuts! Adding a wet kit to the truck would sort of defeat the purpose of getting a gooseneck in the first place which is ease of use between trucks.

I had my ASME 6G papers since I was 17. I'm sort of a stickler for a quality weld. You don't even want to get me started on the "quality" or lack there of in aluminum trailers.</div></div>


Well you can have a drop frame built that would be close including your 8" for the RB.

As to the wet pump, just set it up with quick disconnects at the pin like we do on tractor rear hydraulics for implement usage.




/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
</div></div>

that's what im trying to avoid is having to install a wetkit on the truck side! if anything I would go with a little duetz diesel on the neck of the trailer for a hyd power pack.

Otherwise with the live hyd on the truck i would be FORCED to use this trailer with just one truck. Something to be avoided
 
#24 ·
I need something more practical to haul forklifts and man lifts. I want the Short wheel base to get me in and out of san Francisco and Berkeley city streets.

I Think XL specialized and Trail King are making a spread adjustable slider for CA now. You can spread the tandems 10' apart to get the legal 20K on each axle or close them up and slide them forward to dump the load on the deck.


Careful on that spread axle. Spread axles suck big time on narrow little streets. Hell on the tires, and the axle itself as well.

One of the bigger const companies around here about ten years ago started using the Trail King hydraulic sliding axle trailers (48ft) models. The drivers I have talked to really like them, especially since they can load from both ground and a dock. I have noticed they have just now started trading those 10-12 year old units in on brand new ones. They haul everything from little fork lifts and paving equipment. To smaller dozers and excavators on them. They seem to be a pretty versatile trailer, and a decent compromise for deck-over height disadvantage.

What are you looking for deck length wise? Could you go with a folding gooseneck, and a pony motor?
 
#25 ·
I want a true gooseneck (Ball hitch) trailer that I can also tow behind my f-350 if the mood strikes me. so a folding neck trailer is not an option.

I have the Murray mechanical detach for the large loads. I could go with a pony motor with the limited 3-10 times a month the trailer will see use I thought that the electric would be fine and cost effective but the pony would also work.

I have giving up on the dock leveler idea. that was going to be a necessity for a beaver tail but now that I have made my mind towards a full tilt deck I have all but abandoned the dock leveler thoughts.

Trail king makes and adjustable spread setup. You can run the trailer down the highway in a traditional closed tandem configuration. OR slide the lead trailer axle 10 foot up from the rear trailer axle.

This allows 20K on each axle when their spread 10' apart. Now I know this wouldn't apply to my 10ton gooseneck but I seemed like it would be the CATS ARSE for getting the perfect pin weight going down the highway with a really odd load. Then just slide them back together for in town cornering.

The only way I would run a "FIXED" spread tandem axle was if I could dump the air out of the air ride axle and pivot on the front or rear axle whenever I chose I had an old Dorsey aluminum 43' flat that I kept around the yard for limited local use that had a fixed spread on air ride.

Other than the fact that it would stress crack the trailer frame about once a year from putting all the weight of the trailer on the one axle when turning tight it was a pretty handy setup. It finally went to that scrap yard in the sky when all the arch was gone and the cracks and abuse became too much to bother fixing and the price of aluminum scrap went way up.
 
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