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Old 02-14-2008, 10:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
Kartek
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bahama, NC
Posts: 1,490
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Thanks Band Mem,

It's been a long time since I messed with this stuff. Just a couple other notes:

Since you're using twin co-phased antennas, you'll have to do them both at once. Loosen both set screws and shorten them both all the way before taking a reading. After each reading, move them both out about 1/16" until the optimum reading is achieved. If the SWR goes up immediately after you move them the first MCH then, you'll have to cut a bit off the whip to shorten it up.

Also, you may be dealing with fiberglass whips and some of them may not have adjustment screws and you're stuck with them the way they are.

Finally, for best performance, mount the antennas straight up rather than tilted forward. I guess it's suposed to be stylish or something to do that but they're designed to be perpendicular to the ground. I think they're also supposed to be exactly 8' apart from one another but I may be geeking out too much...
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2000 Vermillion F250, 4X4, SC, LWB, PSD, 6sp. Autometer Sport Comp 2 5/8" Boost and EGT, Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller, Retrax bed cover, LED tail conversions, electronic flasher, Rotorpro brake disks, homemade open element intake, Pioneer SYS 900 navigation system, Kicker RMB8 Subs, Rockford Fosgate 200M amp, Clifford Matrix Rs3 Alarm, Rancho RSX shocks, Relocated parking brake release, Home Depot regulator on the MAP sensor, DP Tuner chip 40, 80, 120 HP - 312 RWHP / 600 Lb-Ft Tq. on the Dynojet. Her name is Xena - a rolling test bed for my crazy ideas...

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