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[NYB]

Before tearing anything apart yet, you might want to pinpoint with certainty where exactly the leak is coming from.

To do that, consider pouring some flourescent tracer dye in the crankcase, and have your wife start it up again (with a large, high sided oil drip pan underneath, since you know it will leak a lot) while you carefully inspect the top of the engine (with the plastic "powerstroke" site shield removed).

You'll need a special, very expensive tracer light if you make this inspection during the day time. So don't bother doing it during the day. Do it at night, and then you can get by with a cheap black light, found in pet stores for lizard cages, or found at Home Depot in 4 foot flouresent tube lenghts. If necessary, go ahead and buy a $9.99 four foot flouresecent fixture to put the black light tube in, it is still cheaper than the several hundred dollars the automotive specialty tool truck will charge you for the inspection light made for this purpose.

At night, your makeshift halloween refuge blacklight is not competing with the sunlight, and the green dye will bubble out of the leak source like neon sign, saying "look here, I'm over here." Even if the engine is already covered in oil, and the valley is already swimming in oil, the oil outside the engine is not yet dyed. But the oil inside the engine is. And where the oil inside the engine is gushing forth to get outside, that will be the location of the strongest concentration of dye that ends up outside the engine. Voila, now you'll know if the leak is coming from the pedestal, the CHRA, the HPOP line o-rings, or whereever it might be.

This is a fairly fool proof way of precise leak location detection, and it happens to be the method that Ford required dealer service departments to follow first when doing warranty diagnosis and repair. Only the dealers could do it during the day with the high dollar light.