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I just put a SouthBend dual disk pulling clutch in my truck. When I called and talked with Peter I asked him about what I think you are talking about when you say a puck type clutch. His response was that the non-puck more like the stock setup has more holding power. That is what you want right? more holding power? For the most holding power and the ablility to slip it without worried too much, the dual disk is best. But the price is not cheap. I paid over $1000 for my clutch and Peter gave me a deal I couldn't resist.
I had the SB 1939 DF and it was a great clutch. Plenty of holding power and never missed a beat. Till I wore it out with a bad pilot bearing.
Now I have a SB Dual disk clutch with the same 1939 pressure plate system. Other than the low-to-the-floor engagement and hard shifting I love it.
You can ask around here and get every answer under the sun. If you call Peter at Southbend he will set you up right. Just be sure to have either a VERY reputable shop do the work or do it yourself.
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'02 F-350 "Babe The Big Blue Truck" 4x4, Ext. Cab, 8' bed
DP-Tuner 80T, WW, DIY intake, openair CCV, 80HP 'pane shot, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO boost/pyro gauges, 4" lift, 255/70R22.5 tires, brake linelock, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, and who knows what else... oh and a Kennesaw Mountain front bumper
'66 Bronco "Big Little Monster" - 5.0L EFI, AOD, D20, 3.5" WH sus. lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG muds, Stock Dana 30 front with Lock-Rite, disk brakes, Warn Hubs, Stock Ford 9" rear with mini spool
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