The time it takes to remove the valve and replace it is all it takes to "rebuild" it with new o-rings. They form the gasket between the valve body and filter cannister. So once you have the valve off, just swap the o-rings and button it back up. Everyone says use Viton o-rings, but I have plain ol' buna-N (hardware store variety) in mine for at least 2 years now and no problems. The valve will cost you about $50 vs $1 for o-rings. Your choice.
When you closed the valve with it dripping, you probably trapped some grit between the o-ring and the seat, making your leak worse. You MAY be able to cure it temporarily by opening the valve and closing it again with the fuel pump running. That might flush the grit out and get it to seal again.
Welcome to Alaska.
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First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, 6spd, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, Jody's 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
), AIS,
coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return,
heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.
Hard or no-start? Check here
