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Old 01-21-2009, 12:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
MJPliska
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Happy Valley, Oregon
Posts: 319
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The thermocouples are "generic" except for the connectors on the ends and the mounting threads (we offer both 1/4" NPT and 1/8" NPT). In other words, you can re-use the thermocouple and leadwire that you already have. You will need to add wiring for power and ground, since the old style you have did not require it.

Rather than the EV series, I would recommend the new EVČ series. An equivalent gauge would be R17021, although the R16021 with the white pointer is a perfect match for your factory dash: http://www.isspro.com/images/ev2/sma...rge/R16021.gif

We don't sell EVČ directly from the factory, but there are a number of stocking distributors:
http://www.isspro.com/EV2_find_distributors.php

The standard EVČ pyro price is higher, but that is because it includes the thermocouple and leadwire. You can special order the gauge with a "G" suffix to get it as the gauge alone (e.g., R16021G).

There are a few reasons to recommend EVČ over EV:
1) The EV gauge requires an amplifier box, which you have to find space to mount.
2) The EVČ gauges come with LED backlighting (never replace a bulb again). It also draws much less current.
3) The EVČ pyrometers are temperature compensated. Conventional pyrometers are really just measuring the difference in temperature between the probe tip and the end of the leadwire assembly (typically at the back of the gauge). The industry standard is to calibrate the gauge reading on the assumption that it is at 70°F. If the gauge head is colder, you will show a higher pyro temperature than actual, and vice versa. A dark colored interior of a truck can get to over 170° on a hot day, which results in your pyro reading 100° low during the conditions when you are likely to be running the hottest.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
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1995 F350 PSD Crew Cab Dually, 288k miles (Ford rebuilt E4OD at 226k)
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