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Help with Alternator and Serpentine Belt replacement

75K views 33 replies 29 participants last post by  prayingforluck 
#1 ·
My alternater seems to be on the outs as it is only putting out 12V at idle plus the battery indicator is on. What tools do I need to get the Belt off? Any advive to make this easy? WHere is the tensioner that I need to release? Sorry for so many questions, just have a limited time tomorrow to get it done before I go on a trip. Thanks.
 
#2 ·
The tensioner is hard to reach but there is an easy way to do the change. This method requires a strong friend. Place a 6 foot or longer piece of pipe ,2x4 etc crossways across the engine compartment. tie a short piece of rope around the pipe and around the belt. Lift he belt off the alternator pulley.Replace alternator. Lift belt back onto pulley.
 
#3 ·
I always loosen the 4 bolts holding the shround to the engine (2 on top/2 on bottom) and use a 1/2" breaker bar with a piece of pipe (or they make a slim tensioner tool for this) and insert either into the front of the tensioner and release the tension.
 
#4 ·
To swap an anternator, I take the little "wing" off the fan shroud, get a firm grip on the belt between the lower idler and the alternator, and pull outwards. Using my other hand, I flip the little lever on the bottom of the tensioner and slowly release the belt. The lever holds the tensioner in the released position.

After replacing the alternator, a quick tug on the belt lets the lever spring back. Reinstall the wing and you're done...
 
#15 ·
Oh, it takes some arm strength to pull the belt that far. You're only usingyour left arm, while your right hand is flipping the lever.

I guess all those 6.0L head bolt torque sequences were good for something....

Thanks for this great info...worked like a charm, and saved me having to pay to have it replaced in a shop!!!! :thumbsup:

It really only took 20 minutes including the time to disconnect the batteries!
 
#6 ·
<span style="color: blue"> Greg ,

I'm assuming this is for the stock tensioner, right?

Does anyone know if an aftermarket will have this type of lock?

Thanks, </span>
 
#7 ·
I replaced mine in the ford parking lot in about 7 minutes, Looosen the three bolts on the top and tilt the alternator down toward the front and slip off belt, reverse sequence to install and dont forgot about the hot 12v wire also. Its pretty easy just takes a little caressing to get it slid all into the right place.
 
#9 ·
I replaced mine in the ford parking lot in about 7 minutes, Looosen the three bolts on the top and tilt the alternator down toward the front and slip off belt, reverse sequence to install and dont forgot about the hot 12v wire also. Its pretty easy just takes a little caressing to get it slid all into the right place.
Worked for me, probably 10 min after 20 min looking on the forum. Taped up the 12V wire so it wouldn't short out
 
#10 ·
The little metal tang that holds the tensioner inthe locked position is the trick. You should be able to pull the belt and push the tang into the notch so it holds the tensioner in place. lift the belt off and remove the alt and repalce it. to reinstall the belt just line it up and yanc on it. the tang is spring loaded and it will move out as soon as you let the pressure off. If you don;'t havethe strength use a pry bar or big screw driver to pry the belt. put it under the belt and against the alternator for leverage.
 
#11 ·
Just wanted to say thanks and give a kudos to the tab lock on the tensioner pully made it a lot easier to get the belt off with out having a bunch of specialty tools used a claw hammer to ge enough leverage and locked it with the other hand...
 
#12 ·
This helped me a ton :thumbsup:
 
#13 ·
I just did mine in 20 minutes and that included getting the tools out of the box and placing the charger on the batteries. It's hot as he-ll outside and I haven't turned a wrench in years! You simply disconnect the hot wire (7/16th in. socket) and plug (small screwdriver to press on tab) on the top backside of the alternator. Tape up the hot wire so it doesn't ground out while you're working. Un-bolt the three top facing alternator mounting bolts (1/2 in. socket). Tilt alternator forward and slide belt off pulley. Keep a little tension on the belt or it will slide off the a/c pump pulley down below and or the tensioner pulley to the right. If it does come off, just take a moment to reset it. No big deal. Slip the new alternator under the belt and place it back on top of it's mounting bracket. Loosely reinstall the three mounting bolts to properly position the alternator (There is a little play in the bolt holes so you can get them all started) back on it's bracket. Once they are started and the front ones are down a bit, you can leverage down on the back of the alternator with your one hand and then hand tighten the back bolt down most of the way. Tighten the remaining threads of all three blots with your ratchet and you've completed mounting the alternator. Careful too, because you're dealing with aluminum brackets that will strip/crack easily. Don't forget to plug and bolt your wires back! You've now saved yourself $250.00 in labor! I'm totally frickin' stoked! Thanks much to all on DieselStop.com!
 
#14 ·
Replace your alt. in 1:04 minutes with this thing:
 
#16 · (Edited)
In a cruel auto repair world, the tensioner lock piece is one of the few kind things Ford ever did. I replaced the serpentine belt on a Windstar the other day and the tensioner seems to be so far back under the hood that I think it was just in front of rear axle. I pulled the belt up, used a LONG slender screwdriver to push the lock over and then dental flossed the belt out and new one back on. Yanked the belt and the lock released and away I go. It is almost as useful on a 6.0. Too bad these locks aren't fitted to 100%. Some tensioners have a hole to lock released using a pin or hex key (Allen wrench). Useful but not nearly so easy as the lock finger.
 
#17 ·
hum... a 1"x1/8"x18-20" steel bar stock from Homedepot with a 1/2"x1.5" square slug welded to it. I think i can handle that. You could probably dirll a 1/2 hole in each end. One for the rope to hold it and the other you can insert the slug and plug weld it into the hole. Would look neater and would be stronger then surface welding it. :read:
 
#18 ·
or just pull the belt with your hand and flip the lock ,, it tool free
 
#21 ·
you don't need a tool for the 6.0 with tensioner lock just left and right hand .. one to pull the belt the other to flip the lever
 
#22 ·
These old hands are not as strong as they used to be.
 
#23 ·
Apparently, a worn belt can result in poor/no charging and occasional temporary loss of power steering. I had these symptoms. I replaced the alternator and used a flat ended pry bar for de-tensioning. I did not replace the belt due to time and no internet access to gurus to tell me it can be done without removal of fan etc. Over the next two weeks, longer time for the alternator to start charging. No squealing ever occurred. I just bought the tool advertised above, replaced the "new" alternator and belt. All problems solved. The alternator supply store called and said there was nothing wrong with the one I had replaced under warranty. More than likely, my original was fine, just needed the belt replaced. I imagine those using a pry bar on the back of the belt or a rope have damaged their belt in the process.
 
#26 ·
Just finished r/r the alternator on an '03 F250 6.0.

While engaging the tensioner release lock tab is not quite as easy as pull back on the serpentine belt and flip up in to place, it DOES work and just exactly that way. Just not as easy as it sounded. At least for us older folk.... :icon_rolleyes:

I found it easier to have a helper with a 18" or so screwdriver flip up the lock tab from the passenger side wheel well. Turn wheels to left lock. You can easily see the locking tab and then flip it up in to place as the other person pulls back and up on the belt to get the tensioner up far enough to engage the lock tab in the tensioner indent.

Still though, kudos to all, since in the end, no scarred knuckles, 5 minutes to a new alternator, and $$$ still in me pockets. :thumbsup:
 
#28 ·
Ok ,, for those who are not the britest bulb on the tree ( me)


took the old alt off using the lazy man tilt alt method.

did not feel i could use this method to reinstall , i mean that is apretty good tilt and i do not want/plan on cross threading or cracking anything.....

Thru great hardship i did manage to get a 1/2 ratchet in the tention arm hole. it will not budge either way.
i saw the lever release thing , did not mess with it

knowing what i have could someone go thru the sequence of the tention arm thing ?

thanks, 24hrsparkey.
 
#30 ·
Ok ,, for those who are not the britest bulb on the tree ( me)


took the old alt off using the lazy man tilt alt method.

did not feel i could use this method to reinstall , i mean that is apretty good tilt and i do not want/plan on cross threading or cracking anything.....

Thru great hardship i did manage to get a 1/2 ratchet in the tention arm hole. it will not budge either way.
i saw the lever release thing , did not mess with it

knowing what i have could someone go thru the sequence of the tention arm thing ?

thanks, 24hrsparkey.
*** ok. just back from vacation and id like to complete and test my new alt in my work truck.
Do you push or pull up on the lever tention relese thing ,, and how to get it back to the normal position ?
thank you , 24hrsparkey
 
#29 ·
My alternator went out when I was on a 200 mile trip. I had very little tools, enough to unbolt the alternator. I did not know that there was a tab that will keep the tension off the belt. What I did have was a small ratchet strap. I crawled up under the front of my truck, hooked the tensioner pulley with one hook, hooked the other end around the front axle, and ratcheted enough to take the tension off the belt. Called my brother , who was about 40 miles away and asked him to bring me a new alternator while I was working. Man , that was actually pretty fun. There was about a foot off snow on the ground and my 3 year old nephew in the back of the truck. He kept on wanting to help Bubba.
 
#31 · (Edited)
After you have rotated the tensioner (either by pulling on the belt or rotating clockwise w/ a ratchet/tool), you then have to lift up on the end of the tensioner lock lever (on the side nearest the passenger side) before you release it. When you lift it up and then release the tensioner, the lever will hold it in the "relaxed" position.
 
#32 ·
Thanks , i got it . i used the 1/2 ratchet+3/4 emt pipe mussel bar on the tentioner.

I really tried the lever thing , but it seemed non working on my 03.

Who knew putting on the new alt would be a cakewalk vs putting the belt back on.
24hrsparkey
 
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