Quote:
Originally Posted by wittmeba
I am getting ready to tackle this project of fixing my PDL's - both are not working.
I have done lots of reading of all the ideas but still hesitant. My concern is I will get my truck inoperable which I cant afford right now...mama broke her right ankle and I am her taxi. She is out of the cast, but still not driving.
Anyway, my question is there a way to remove the actuator without disconneting all the door latching mechanism? Any issues with dropping/losing parts inside the door? Im affraid I know the answer on the disconnecting.
Here is my main reference link - great write up even though it is a replacement - I will be trying the repair first. If it fails, replacement will be the only option.
Door Lock Replacement Procedure (1 HR) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
It is my understanding that the repair fix is:
1 - mark the motor in the case so you get the operation (up/down) correct on replacement.
2 - wrap the coil/motor with 2-3 layers of tin foil. This serves to discipate heat and change the resistance which is needed to avoid burnout of the motor.
Can someone who knows about this verify?
Thanks,
Bruce
|
Bruce, the short answers to your questions are as follows:
I don't think you can remove the actuators without removing the door latch mechanism.
Don't sweat dropping or losing parts inside the door. Not gonna happen.
As stated in my previous post, the motor and actuator case will only go back together one way, and it's pretty easy as long as you're paying some attention when you're taking it apart.
You don't wrap the motor, or brush housing with foil, only the little rectangular resistor thingamabob. The foil acts as a conductor, and bypasses the resistor thingamabob.
I wouldn't worry about down time either. If you follow my instructions, and get your screws, supplies, and tools ready ahead of time, you should easily be able to do both doors in about 3 or 4 hours tops. I did all 4 of mine in a day, (even though only 3 were not working), and I had little idea what tools to use, or exactly what screws, and drill bit to use.
Good luck, and I'll be watching for your success story!
__________________
2000

F350 Lariat 4x4 7.3 A/T 3.73 CC LB 223,000 miles. BD X-moniter, 4" turbo back Exhaust, K&N cold air Intake, Shifty Performance Waste gate control box, Sniper Special Forces tunes, BTS Tranny with 6.0 cooler. Kendall Alltrans ATF in Tranny and Transfer Case, and Amsoil synthetic in Diffs.