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Sure there is. When the temperature is above the setpoint, it should be off. When the temperature is below the setpoint, it should be on. Hook it up, raise the temperature and make sure it turns off, then lower the temperature and make sure it switches back on.
For a thorough test, it should be hooked up to a load which draws the same current as a heater element. Corroded contacts will sometimes pass enough current to satisfy an ohmmeter but not switch on a heavy load.
I don't know about Hatfield, PA, but the price of electricity is three or four times the price of gas around here. It might be worthwhile to spend your time & energy replacing it entirely.
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Douglas Campbell, P.E.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles.
- Hella headlights (highly recommended)
- DOT C-2 back end (also recommended)
- R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. Saved ozone and money
- 4.1:1 final drive converted to 3.4:1. Quieter, better mileage but it's a good thing I live in the flat Midwest.
- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
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