Quote:
Originally Posted by searcyfarms
I have heard of folks running without it plugged in, not sure if it is a big deal or not. I am sure tree huggers would say its bad for the trees.
I had mine replaced twice within the 100K mileage wty but after that, now having 140K plus I am sure its probably due again as i get more smoke at starts, more smoke than i used to, and rough at times when starting with small amounts of surging at times, very miniscule but noticable to a sensative person, wife says I don't notice it.
I tried without success to remove it to see how dirty it was. Not sure of a way of getting it out without breaking something. It seems to be really stuck in there and no good way of getting a hold of it to remove. Is there a trick to getting it out?
One of the times when it was really bad and Ford could not get me into the dealership to replace it as they were on Back Order, they unoffically unplugged it to get me by until they could get the part.
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My check engine light just came on yesterday so I scanned the code and got a P0404 and a P1335 which indicated EGR flow and travel fault. After pricing a new one at over $200.00 wholesale I searched the internet and found this site. I found a thread on this site for removing the EGR valve on a 6.0. I removed mine with no special tools and had it cleaned and reinstalled in less than an hour. I loosened the cold air tube clamp then removed the 4 8mm bolts so it could be lifted up and swivled out of the way. Next I removed the 2 8mm bolts from the EGR valve. Now the valve can be twisted/rotated counter-clockwise (it is manditory to rotate the EGR valve body in this fashion). This puts the bolt flanges over open space so a small pry bar can be used to ever so gently lift up on the flanges (alternately). After a few moments the EGR should work loose and be able to be lifted out. I just took mine out today at 35,000 miles and it was completely coked up. I used carb/throttle body cleaner, a small screw driver and a shop towel to clean it out. I did not have a new o-ring and gasket kit so I cleaned the old ones off and lubricated the 0-rings with clean motor oil before re-installing the valve. If you are carefull during the removal process you may not have to replace the o-rings and the gasket. I plan on aquiring a gasket set just in case these fail on me. Now that I know how easy it is to clean I plan on trying to clean it out every 10,000 to 15,000 miles.
Good Luck.
