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There are several excellent summaries of how to change out injectors on vendor's sites (Diesel Innovations, Swamps or Beans will have great helpful procedure summaries.) The worst thing that can happen is you can hydrolock the cylinder. The connecting rod can be bent and then you are looking at a much more expensive tear down. My suggestion would be to pull the back injectors first and let those cylinders fill with oil and fuel from the heads This can then be evacuated with a Mity vac. or the like. Pull the glow plugs from all cylinders (good time to replace them) and after you have the injectors in, but before you replace the glow plugs, turn the engine over by hand with clean shop towels over the cylinder head in place of the valve cover. That will blow residual oil out the glow plug hole. Then turn it over with the starter just bumping it over. Finally seal the cylinders with the new glowplugs (do not forget anti-seize). This might be a good time to replace the injector wiring harness in each cylinderhead as well.
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2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 Auto 4.10 DRW, DP-Tuner F5 live tuned stock, quiet, 40dd, 40, 60, 80 tow, 80e and 120r, B&W GN, BrakeSmart, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, 2µ Dahl 100 filter, regulated return, BTS dual HPOP, AC singles with EDM 34 lpm nozzles, AIS, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC, Hypermax 3.5" dp--> MBRP 4" 304SS exhaust, BTS tranny, 203º T-stat, Chevron ELC, coolant filter, Oilguard bypass with Schaeffer 9000, WranglerNW 200 amp alternator & Optima group 31 batteries, Nippon-Denso starter, SPA gauges, SteveRacer mods, Hella 80/100W 9007s, Hella Micro DE foglights, 1000FF driving lights, 220W backup lights, Stancor contactor, Michelin XPS Traction tires, X-Springs, Bilstein shox, custom bumpers but otherwise stock. Nov 30 '99 build engine with 16 K miles, Fluidampr, Comp Cam 910 springs, Melling LPOP and ARP headstuds.
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