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Thread: 10k mod
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
Patrick Feeley
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Tehachapi, CA, USA
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If I remember correctly, the 10k mod is more for the OBS trucks while the 18k is for the SD trucks. They fool the PCM into thinking that the high pressure oil pressure is lower than it actually is (which then raises the real pressure in the rails). Here's the mod from "Steve Baz's pages" (in the Diesel FAQs here):

"10k Resistor Mod
A 10k ohm resistor will raise the injection oil pressure approximately 200 psi. Increased injection pressure will deliver more fuel and will deliver more fuel sooner. This increase in fuel deliver and advance will yield higher combustion temperature but your exhaust gas temperature will remain almost steady. Such an efficient burn has it's down side. It will cause an idle rougher than stock. It may also cause the production of nitrous oxides. Thermal efficiency is a function of the high(absolute)temperature divided by low(absolute)temperature. In other words, the higher the peak combustion temperature in comparison to the exhaust temperature the more efficient is your engine.

Parts Needed
digital volt ohm meter
10k ohm resistor (1/2 or 1 watt)
2 fine copper wires 4" length
black tape
Procedure
1 Solder wire on resistor
2 Identify injection pressure sensor (on front of driver side cylinder head)
3 Test for voltage with key on and engine off

IPS has 3 connections:
+4.97V
+0.003V
+Output
Turn key off!
Connect resistor between output and 0.003V (do not cut any factory wires)
Slide fine wires into plug and reassemble
Cover bare wires with tape


I used a 1 watt .05 rated 10K resister. Soldered a 3" piece of wire on each side of the resister slide heat shrink over the entire part of the resister and about 1" of wire. Leave about 1" of the wire soldered on inside the heat shrink and seal each end to be sure with electrical tape. Then I stripped the wire back 1" I pulled out of the wire 5 strands and cut the rest away. Looking at the connector it looks like 2 eyes and a mouth put 1 wire in the right eye and the other in the mouth Blue/stripe and grey/stripe wire. I put the plug back into the ICP about 20 time until the check engine light did not come back on. If the check engine light comes back on you still have a open circuit. Just push it into there harder or pull it a part and put in again until no Check Engine Light comes on. It will if your work if you keep putting it in the plug and it seats.

REMOVE BEFORE DEALER SERVICE"

Hope that helps! Cheers!
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1997 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Mostly Stock

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD, 5 Speed, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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