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Old 07-25-2009, 09:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
bismic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djshum View Post
you either need to get a scan tool, or have a dealer diagnose it for you. There are many things that can cause a no start. There are most likely codes stored, that an aftermarket scan tool can't/won't retrieve. Along with the codes, pid data needs to be monitored to see what system is actually causing the problem.
Good advice definitely. However (in this financial mess we are in), everyone should try the basic things before they take a vehicle in.

In the case of a no-start, here are some simple things to troubleshoot (some have been mentioned already):
  • Shift lever not in park or neutral.
  • Bad fuel - drain the HFCM water separator and inspect fuel.
  • Clogged air filter - inspect, and/or replace
  • Air in the fuel - most frequently caused by a bad seal on the HFCM cap (or bad o-ring). Replace o-ring, lube w/ oil and re-install carefully.
  • No fuel flow (clogged fuel filter, bad HFCM, clogged pump suction line, etc). Change filters, see if HFCM is filling the upper fuel bowl, check fuel pressure if you don't mind a little work to install a gauge, blow air through fuel lines if you think they may be plugged.
  • Oil problems (foaming, loss of viscosity: too thick or fuel diluted). Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.
  • Bad batteries (coupled w/ bad alternator) or bad starter (needs 500 rpm to start IIRC) - load test each batteries and test alternator
  • Bad ground or corroded terminals/wires. Check battery and charging system wires and cables.
  • Bad anti-theft system or remote-start system - disconnect system and see if it starts
  • Wire chaffing on key components - inspect wires as mentioned in the earlier links
  • Bad ICP sensor - disconnect harness and re-try
  • Glow plugs or module. You can make a cursory check on this system if you have an inductive (clamp on) amp meter.
  • Lastly - An Auto Enginuity code reader is very powerful (but it is somewhat expensive). You can do the injector buzz test w/ it.
If you are lucky, you can find the culprit. If not, take it in. The most expensive thing to do is throw parts at it!
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Last edited by bismic; 07-25-2009 at 10:01 AM.
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