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To check the circuit for Injector #1 say, pull the connector loose from the valve cover, locate the pin for that injector and not the wire color. Go to the 42 pin connector on top of the VC and pull that loose and find the pin with the same wire color. Put your meter (still on ohms) probes on each pin on that wire. You should get very low reading (like less than 1 ohm) unless there's a break in the wire. Repeat for each injector and for the common wire in the center. You can leave the other engine sensor connectors hooked up. Just don't do the test with the key on.
Then it gets hairier. From the 42 pin on the VC, you have to pull the IDM connector and find the matching wires on each end. The IDM connector is a PITA to get at, as you have to pull the fender liner loose.
When I say there are lots of combinations to check for on a short to another wire check, there are nearly 42 circuits going thru the 42 pin connector (some are empty), so for each circuit, there are potentially 40 or so wires that it could be shorting to. To do a complete test, you'd have to put your second probe on each one of the adjoining wire terminals for each wire in the bundle.
Short to ground isn't a big deal though, as you just test from each circuit to ground. For all the injector circuits, that'd be a total of 10, 5 per side.
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First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version  ), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.
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