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[ericjack]

I explained my experience a while back. You ABSOLUTELY do not have to remove the cab or engine. This will take you a good 3-4 days to do.

Remove the transmission rear mount bolts and jack up past the crossmember. Take a ratchet strap on the drivers side and pull the rear of the transfer case (or transmission) towards the drivers side. The engine mounts are rubber and will let the engine twist. This will accomplish two things...(1) it will move the lower right hand head bolts away from the HVAC box, and (2) it will move the last lower head bolt on the left away from the firewall.

The left head bolts will all come out, and then the head. You WILL have to zip tie the lower 4 or 5 headbolts on the right head and pull them with the head. The same goes going back in. Zip tie the lower studs in the right head, and install. The left head will sit on the block, then install the studs. You need to remove the fan and shroud, as I found it helpful to stand on the steering stabilizer.

One thing to note....I had a really bad experience with the assembly lube supplied with the studs. The nuts started to chatter at 90 ftlbs no matter how much lube I smothered on the threads and nut surfaces. The best thing I used was Lucas Oil Additive. I throughly lubed all surfaces with Lucas, and the nuts did not chatter until after 240 ftlbs. Here again, this is my experience. Others may have had good luck with the ARP lube...I did not.

I hope this helps. It is not an easy job, but you can do it without pulling the cab. I have no access to a lift, so I was left doing it cab on. Trust me, you can do this...it's not that hard. Send me a PM if I can help any more.