No, use just one filter. You want to filter the oil before ya put it in the truck! The filter on truck is just for possible contamination after it gets into truck.
As for pre-filtering, I use a version of the Frybrid still. Basically, I use a water heater with just lower element (wired to 110v) to warm WVO to about 110-120*, then let that settle for 24-48hrs - maybe longer if its really nasty. After draining the crud off the bottom, I use compressed air to push the oil out of WH and thru a 10mic and then 2mic fuel filters into the trucks or clean storage tanks. I also have an A/C vacuum pump which I can use to pull a vacuum in tank for filling and can also use vacuum to assist in dewatering. (search for 'vacuum suckers' - often used for collecting oil) Oh yeah, I use paint strainers or SS basket-type strainers before WH to keep the big stuff out of WH. The longer you let the oil settle BEFORE this, the better. TIME is the best and cheapest filter!! I found even though water filters are cheap, the are not economical if you are actually asking them to filter anything - besides, they are only 'nominal' rated filters, meaning they let much bigger particles thru than their 'rating'. You want 'absolute' rated filters - specifically FUEL filters.
Remember, 'water block' filters do nothing to stop or separate water from VO.
I use a Goldenrod-style filter housing (10mic) and a BioTec 2mic spin-on filter. I also used to use the 10mic filter I use on truck, so I could pull a (good) filter off truck before road trip or something without wasting it, but since I seldom see under 10k miles on a VO filter, I just use'em on the truck until they are spent (fuel pressure gauge tells me when - if you put filter on suction-side, a vacuum gauge will tell you filter performance) Here's a couple links for filters and bases:
I like this housing over the Goldenrod because its clear (not 'golden') and VO doesn't degrade it (like the mystery metal in g-rod housings). Tractor Supply has the cheapest elements I've found for it (< $6 ea).
National Spencer Farm Filter
This is the 2mic I use. These seem to last alot longer than cellulose (paper) elements which tend to break down in VO service limiting usable life.
Cim-Tek Bio-Tek Microglass Filter - Particulate Filter (70230)
Here's a filter base for it:
Cim-Tek 3/4" NPT Fuel Filter Adapter
This is a pic of my current 'still' as I was putting it together. I was using a 30mic, then 10mic and 2mic spin-on filters in series - but the 30mic filters cost ALOT more than the goldenrod 10mic, so I decided it was more economical to ditch the 30mic...
You'll also need to remove the anode rod, etc (everything) from WH before using it like this. Here's some of what came out of this one (the white rod was anode, the blue one was cold water fill, also see the check valves/isolators):
I've also been using the $35ish Harbor Freight 1" clear water pumps to move oil. They don't 'self prime', so you'll either need to keep head pressure on them (mount lower than tank) and/or use a check valve/foot valve on end of suction hose to keep oil in hose to pump...
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Choose wisely. Or
PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!
2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs, GTP 38R. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/150,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, Evans coolant, coolant filter, boost relief valve, Dieselsite IC boots, Hella headlight harness, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!
2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion with over 100k VO miles so far!
That's 250k miles on SVO between them!