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Well, I finally got some time to see if I can make the oil freckles in my driveway stop appearing. I ordered the o-ring kit from Bob and decided to see what I could see. After removing the filter housing and first intake tube I could see a little better and there was some oil near the pressure lines, so I decided to go ahead and install the o-rings. I had to unbolt the A/C compressor and tilt it down in front of the engine to get at the discharge fittings, but it wasn't too complicated or impossible to work on. The end plug at the back of the HPOP was completely an act of faith as I couldn't see any of it. I let it set overnight to let the locktite dry, filled the reservoir and after some cranking it fired right up. The next time I started it there was some cranking delay but now it fires right away like it always used to. I don't know if I fixed the oil leak or not since I didn't bother to catch all the oil that drained out, so it ought to be a week or so before I can expect it to all drain/fry off of the top of the engine.
Here's what I don't like. I have a dp tuner chip that really gives it a kick. I have to be really careful on take off as the throttle tip in "jumps" or "snaps" when you give it just a little nudge. Since the repair, though, its sluggish on take off. The rest of the range is as I remember it, and it starts right up every time, but it just doesn't seem to have that same kick from a dead stop. When I put the springs back in on the discharge fittings I had to put them in the pump and screw in the fitting afterwards since they wouldn't stay in the fitting at the angle required to screw them in. I assume they seated in the recess of the discharge fittings when I screwed them, but if they didn't could that be causing the output pressure to be restricted? I know I installed them right side up, and I drove it about 30 miles on and off the highway so I don't think there's still air stuck in there.
Any thoughts?
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