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Thanks for the thoughts. I have drained and flushed the radiator as well as changed the thermostat. I took the liberty to "disassemble" my 3rd Hayden unit. This took a while with a saw and a chisel, but I got it apart so I can basically see how it works. Not that it matters, but in case anyones interested it looks like basically the way it works is there's a thick oil in the clutch and as it's spinning it flings to the outside and is allowed through a hole where it goes into a cavity in the center where it's held. As temperature heats to a certain point two small windows are opened by the bimetal strip and fluid fills the clutch plates and makes for a sort of hydraulic lock locking the 2 parts of the clutch together. As temperature goes down the windows close, fluid drains back into the cavity and no more hydraulic condition so fan "should" freewheel to about 700-800RMP max. This third Hayden was the one that "worked", but took 7 miles to unlock. From all I can tell the clutch is working in the bimetal part and window opening, but the oil is so thick almost like vasaline it takes heat before it thins out enough to flow back into the cavity to allow the clutch to unlock, so just defective design.
In the mean time I reinstalled my original clutch for the 4th time and it works fine 95% of the time, so I guess I'll just be happy with that.
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1997 F350CC, 4x4, PSD Tipper pro kleenex open filter. Roggen 6" lift kit with 26" ratflex 12" offset tires. Downpipe cut and welded to adapt 3" into a 12" outlet. 12" muffler cut and adapted to 2", then a special turbo manifold from a volkswagon modified to flank out to 3" to the tail pipe. Interior from a Corvair modified by cutting 6" off the padding. Snize and snide 32gallon aux tank mounted in rear seat, rear seat relocated to bed. Bed shortened to 4ft.
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