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First thing - crack a couple lines at the injectors and check for fuel squirting out while cranking. If it's not there are only a few reasons why, and I'll get to those later. First of all, though, if you haven't done so yet, I'd go ahead and replace the fuel & air filters. The vacuum switch in the filter housing *should* have notified you if the filter was clogged, but only if it was still working. If the system is anything like the GM 6.2l diesels, the vacuum switch is a common place for fuel to leak and the port to atmosphere is tapped & plugged to render it inop.
Next, pull the supply line off the filter, put it in a can or jar, and crank the engine for 30 seconds. You should have at least a pint of fuel in the container, and it should come out with some force. No fuel? Try pumping from a 5-gallon can of clean fuel to ensure the lines or pickup aren't blocked. Otherwise I'd suspect the fuel pump is bad. The Stanadyne DB2 injector pump can pull fuel all the way from the tank but it's a lot of strain on the pump and could cause it to fail in time.
Next, check for power going to the shutoff solenoid. With the key on, pull the solenoid wire off and put it back on, you should hear a clicking. If there's no click check the wire for power with a test light. No power? Work your way backward to the ignition switch and then to the batteries. Power? Replace the solenoid.
If the solenoid and everything else so far checks out, then I'd say your next step is to have the injector pump tested at a authorized Stanadyne service center. You're looking at maybe an hour to remove the pump. These pumps can go from running great to DOA inside a week, and the ULSD that's pretty much everywhere is especially hard on them if you're not running a lubricity additive (Power Service, Stanadyne, FPPF, etc.)
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Phil
1988 F350, NA 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, 4.10 SRW. Miles: over 450K. Being taken off the road within the next month or so to deal with advanced rust. May just do a resto/rebuild to better my bodywork & paint skills.
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