If you're not going to run extra batteries, I'd say a larger unit like a 3k watt will really work your batteries. I'd highly suggest adding auxilary batteries,...even if they're cheap basic car batteries.
As far as cabling. I usually suggest 1/0 ga for these larger inverters if going say 6-10ft. Wouldn't suggest going any farther than that.
If you keep batteries close (3ft or so) like I did here, you can use dual 4ga runs or a 2ga may do.
I installed a 3000w vector into my toolbox. I have 2 basic economy grade car batteries installed directly under the inverter (yes, it's a tight fit) all built into a wooden box.
Ran 4ga cable to truck batteries through ANL fuse (1 at box, and 1 at front batteries). These cables ran neatly through stake pocket in truck bedside with some slight modifications.
An additional dual ANL fuseblock is housed down inside the entire mess.
Works great. I run power tools, 500w work lights, pancake air compressor, grinder, coffee pot when camping etc.
Would like to see if it'll run my little 130amp lincoln welder.
All in all, about $400 in this setup. While you get more bang for buck w/ generator, I like this as it's ALWAYS with me.
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y2k F250 7.3 psd Calif emissions, ext cab long bed 265/75/R16 E rated tires, 190k miles 4x4 (nv271 manual t-case) 7.3 #1247981 1/18/00 (forged rods), 3.73LSD, non-diode 4R100, Dp tuner stock, 60t 60e 80t 80e, high idle. DIY 6637 air filter, wicked wheel, turbo master WG controller, turbo lifesaver, bellowed uppies, 4" downpipe & exhaust, 203t-stat, triple pod glowshift gauges (egt, tranny, boost), Ride-rite 2330 air bags, BTS VB, Sports a Western plow when the white stuff flies.
Trailers:
I'm usually towing 1 of several trailers I've built.
15ft car hauler (1000lbs empty; 5500lbs loaded)
26ft deck over car hauler (2000lbs empty; 7k loaded)
36ft car hauler (Was tongue pull; have since converted into 5er'. 4500lbs empty; 14k loaded)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...0/IMG_4130.JPG
