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5th wheel attachments

10K views 36 replies 21 participants last post by  winter traveler 
#1 ·
Good day, I have a 2011 with the bed already set to receive a 5th wheel hitch. I was wondering what some of you all are running for hitches in the bed and recommend for brands. I will be pulling a 42 foot 5th wheel toy hauler, empty weight is 14K, the spec sheet said it was going to have 3100lbs on the hitch.

Any info is appreciated,

Thanks!
:ford:
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the Diesel Stop

IIRC Reese makes a hitch that is designed to install directly on the factory mounts. Reese is a very respected and highly rated brand, and I would buy the highest weight rated one you can get. If your a short bed, then you'll want a sliding hitch, if you have a long bed then you don't need it. Some of the newer trailers are being designed with the front corners made so you don't have to have a sliding hitch on a short bed. My 2012 Copper Canyon is made that way, but I have a long bed so it didn't matter.
 
#3 ·
I agree with chuckster57. Reese is a good hitch with a great reputation. My new truck (see sig) was ordered with the Reese hitch. I haven't towed the fifth wheel with it yet so I can't vouch for it yet, but I certainly anticipate it will be fine.
I would also like to recommend Pullrite hitches. I've owned two of these, one a regular 5th wheel hitch and one was their "Superglide" model which slides automatically back and forth in the event that you have a short bed truck.
Both Pullrite and the higher end Reese hitches (like the one that I ordered with the new truck) have a single piece steel jaw that wraps around the kingpin on your trailer instead of two "dog ear" jaws that clamp around the kingpin. This is a very secure connection with extremely close tolerance so there is no banging or slack.
'Hope this has helped..
 
#5 ·
wpetko said:
Both Pullrite and the higher end Reese hitches (like the one that I ordered with the new truck) have a single piece steel jaw that wraps around the kingpin on your trailer instead of two "dog ear" jaws that clamp around the kingpin.
I am using a Robin that has a big flat bar that crosses the "gate" and locks in.
 
#6 ·
I got an Adapter plate from hensley if you would want to expand what hitches that you can use. works great and fits perfectly into our trucks. cant remember off hand the limits but i do know it exceeds what the 2011 250s can tow. the plate was 4000lbs max hitch.
 
#7 ·
←snow∞motion→;2260007 said:
Thanks for asking this, I have been wondering this myself.

What about the gooseneck ball, will any old ball fit in the factory installed mount?

Don't want to poach your thread, I was just wondering.

Thanks
Reese makes that as well. It is all part of their elite line up. They seem to have the market cornered for the factory options. The only way to get away from the elite line is to get the adapter that was previously mentioned.
 
#9 ·
I went with both the Reese fifthwheel and gooseneck from Ford. The gooseneck I don't think you'll save much money going elsewhere, but might be able to get a fifth wheel set up a bit cheaper. To me though it was just easier to purchase it with the truck that way I was all set and knew it would work. I Believe my fw is rated at 24,000 lbs which is right at the tow capacity of my truck. I figured I wanted to match the hitch weight to my truck capacity rather than a specific trailer.


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#10 · (Edited)
To the OP - The Reese hitch from ford is awesome. I really like it. i like the fact that there are grease fittings that you can getgrease into the working of the hitch. Hooking up is also easy. the thickness of the pin jaw is thicket than my old Reese 20K hitch. The truck tows my 5er beautifully. We are fulltiem RV'ers and have a little over 15K on the truck already.

BUT. Forget about that empty weight of the trailer. It is a useless number. As soon as you put flatware into the kitchen drawer that number is out the window. ALWAYS use the GVWR of the trailer when doing any of your weight calculations. And always use 18 - 20% of the 5er weight (until it is weighed, use GVWR) to figure what the pin weight is going to be.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all the good information! I will definenatly look into Reese!

I put the Empty weight out there as it was just a place to start, but I fully understand that after adding 160 gal of water, every day things, kitchen stock, 2 dirt bikes........ The weight adds up. I have out grown the current trailer I am using and I am tired of hooking the weight distribution hitch up all the time.... Am I getting lazy? I don't know but possibly I am finding every possible reason to upgrade! :yesnod:

I have a F350 long bed, so no need for the sliding hitch. Is there any adjustment to the height of the plate, looking to adjust the clearance between the truck bed and trailer.

Thanks
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all the good information! I will definenatly look into Reese!

Is there any adjustment to the height of the plate, looking to adjust the clearance between the truck bed and trailer.

Thanks
My Reese Classic 22K has three height positions. I keep it in the top one so less weight is on the truck.
 
#13 ·
As soon as you start towing a fiver, you're going to ask yourself what took you so long. As for clearance, you want about 6" from the bed rail to the skin of the trailer on flat level ground.
You can adjust the height of the hitch, or the pin box on the trailer, or a combo of both.

I have air bags, and you might want to consider them, keeping in mind that they do nothing to increase the weight rating of the rear axle, but will go a long way toward leveling out the ride. My old fiver had a1795 pin and dropped my bumper about 2-3", my new one is only 1250 and it drops the bumper less than 2 inches. Your pin weight is going to squat your butt. If you plan on driving after dark, your going to make enemies of on coming traffic, and you'll think your searching the skies for aircraft.


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#15 ·
I would look in to the B&W OEM compatible companion 5th wheel hitch. Cost is little less, well built but most people haven't heard of them unless they are pulling horse trailers.
 
#17 · (Edited)
There are two choices for direct drop in to the factory installed mount. The Reese and the B&W. the under bed mount is a Reese designed unit that's why the ford dealers sell the Reese hitch. Overpriced in my book from the dealer and still pricey from the RV store or online. B&W makes one model for the Reese hitch mount and is a 20k hitch for around $900. Well under the Reese prices. As far as gooseneck balls, your stuck with the Reese kit at about $200 for the ball and hook eyes.

Other hitches available if you use the adapter plate mentioned but that too will drive the price of the hitch up. If I were to do it again, I would have NOT had the factory fifth wheel prep done and had the B&W system installed aftermarket. In the long run, it's cheaper, cleaner install and only 1 hole in the bed instead of 5.
 
#19 · (Edited)
#18 ·
I bought the Pullrite OE series 25k hitch.. Always preferred the Pullrite stuff, made in the US, the install was definately simpler than the Reese kit, and works with the Ford factory prep.. Paid $1012 shipped from streetsideauto.com a few months back.

http://pullrite.com/oe.htm
 
#20 ·
Of all the options that have been presented here, it still looks like the reese elite line has the most robust latching system. I know B&W has a good name for themselves, and am definitely not knocking their products, as I have used them in the past(always gooseneck). I am not familiar with hijacker or pullright. Both of these options appear to only have for and aft movement. The little bit of left and right movement makes for a much nicer ride on the highway IMO.
 
#21 ·
#24 ·
For the price, seems to me that the B&W is the way to go, plus I have used other products by them for horse trailers and equipment. The OEM BW hitch is a 20K where the Reese is a 25K but over 600 more dollars.

Any personal experience with the B&W hitch that fits into the factory mounts, I would love to hear your opinion.
 
#25 ·
B&W RVK3300 OEM MOUNT $799 from Tweetys.com free shipping.
 
#26 ·
When I bought my Reese (Ford) hitch from the dealer I included it in my original truck purchase and the dealer gave it to me at thier cost, big savings. I have just over 8000 miles towing with the hitch and love it. Very easy to get in and remove.
The one thing about the hitch I do not like is the very cheap off-set wrench they give you for adjusting the feet. The jaws of the wrench spread the first time I tried to use it. Its a real knuckle buster if you ever use it.
As others have stated, your truck will squat so airbags are a must.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Choices choices choices................

When I ordered my truck there was only one option for hitches if using the factory under bed mount, the Ford offered Reese. But there was promises of soon to be options.
By the time my truck came in Hensley had their adapter plate ready.

That plate is pricey and very well made.


The advantage with this plate if you have the factory under bed kit is that any Reese style rail mount hitch will work.

The B&W world is certainly full of devout followers with the turn over ball system - kit. Personally, after doing my own research, I never cared for the the B&W as it uses the trucks bed for support. For me, I want all my towing stresses on the frame. Granted, most of the towing is done by the single center point, but the hitch still relies on the bed.

B&W has listened to the consumer though, and they now offer a model that drops into the factory under bed mount.
Companion.

I had a PullRite SuperGlide in my previous truck, and for sliders I don't think there is anything on the market that can top the auto slide feature.

I am using a Hensley TS3 now, also a well made robust (heavy) hitch.

Since the original poster will be trailering a toy hauler, and a large one at that, I would suggest looking into air ride hitches.

An air ride hitch allows me to keep my trailer where I want it depending on the load. My toy hauler weight varies quite a bit from being almost empty with no water or toys for a 3 day trip to the county park to being well maxed out with 110 gallons of water, motorcycle, golf cart trailer's gas tank full and provisions for a couple of weeks.

And you should consider air bags. You didn't say if your 350 was DRW or single. With the DRW, you will be below level in the rear with that trailer hooked up.
 
#30 ·
I agree with everybody on air bags, I am going to need the airbags. The current toy hauler squats me several inches and opposite direction drivers occasionally let me know on dark back country roads. 2T of hay produces a good squat also, so I can imagine what 3K is going to look like.

My F350 is 4WD and a single rear wheel.

Also, the trailer has an airbag system in the hitch, but I am not sure how adjustable it is...

Thanks to everybody for the info and opinions. Keep them coming. I guess the next thread to start will be what type of airbags to get?
 
#31 ·
My and 3 of my buddies all use B&W Companion hitches in our trucks. Great hitch.

I have 3400lbs of pin weight with no air bags. Truck rides great. Squats a little but oh well.
 
#33 · (Edited)
#34 · (Edited)
The Reese Elite 25K is built like a tank. If I had to do it over, this is probably what I would get. I bought the B&W/Companion hitch because my truck did not come with the factory mounts and I thought the B&W would be easier. It still required lifting one side of the bed, and I'm not very happy with the marginal materials the Companion is built with. It has sagged at the draw-down bolt and splayed at the clamp bolts and NO I am NOT over-torquing it. The B&W designed for the factory mount may be a better product, but I've yet to see one in person. They came out just after I bought my truck. I may yet buy the Ford factory mount kit and pull the bed to install it.
 
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