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		<title>Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com</title>
		<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/</link>
		<description>This is a discussion forum dedicated to all Ford Diesel Trucks (Powerstroke Engine).</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 21:08:53 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<url>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Replacement Alternator Pulley needed</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/replacement-alternator-pulley-needed-345945/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 20:41:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I searched... long story short, I need a replacement alternator pulley and I do not have the original as a reference.  From what I've read it's a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I searched... long story short, I need a replacement alternator pulley and I do not have the original as a reference.  From what I've read it's a 17mm bore, found this link, but need some guidance, no 7 grooves listed but I'm already running an 8 groove AC delete pulley with no issues. <br />
<a href="http://store.alternatorparts.com/17mm.aspx" target="_blank">17mm Bore Alternator Pulleys with 17mm Hole</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/">Power Strokes 1994-1997 General</category>
			<dc:creator>preith</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/replacement-alternator-pulley-needed-345945/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Is my Oil Cooler in early stages of failure?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/my-oil-cooler-early-stages-failure-345937/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 20:40:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[If I'm not mistaken the specifications for the EOT and ECT should be no more than 15 degrees apart and if they are your oil cooler is bad. The 2...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>If I'm not mistaken the specifications for the EOT and ECT should be no more than 15 degrees apart and if they are your oil cooler is bad. The 2 gauges I have on my Scangauge II at all times are for oil and coolant and for awhile they were about 4 to 6 degrees apart. Well in recent weeks my temperature range has increased to 7 - 10 degrees apart. In one instance it got up to 20 degrees apart but it only stayed like that for 30 seconds then caught back up to where it should be. With the increase in temperature range, does my oil cooler have some life left in it or should I go ahead and replace it soon? Replace the coolant filter? <br />
<br />
Some feedback please<br />
<br />
<br />
Jackson</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/">6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>jspiv6.0</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/my-oil-cooler-early-stages-failure-345937/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[It's time for a Southbend!]]></title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f25/its-time-southbend-345929/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:55:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[For some reason my DP-Tuner and my OEM clutch just don't get along.  The Clutch fought real hard but just couldn't take the power of the DP-Tuner....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>For some reason my DP-Tuner and my OEM clutch just don't get along.  The Clutch fought real hard but just couldn't take the power of the DP-Tuner. :jester: I rolled into the throttle in 4th gear while getting on the freeway in the 100hp tune and the rpm's went up but the speedometer wasn't following. :lol:<br />
<br />
  So now it's time for a Southbend upgrade!!!  I'm looking to purchase a 1944-60K. If you look in my sig you can see a list of my current mods, am I right in choosing this particular clutch?  Is there anything I should know about it? Any special tips or tricks on the install? And last but not least, who has the best price?  Any help is appreciated!  Thanks, Phil! :thumbsup:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f25/"><![CDATA[Upgrades and Aftermarket - 99 & up 7.3L Engine]]></category>
			<dc:creator>FILDO</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f25/its-time-southbend-345929/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Posting rules</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f61/posting-rules-345921/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:30:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>As a free member, where and how can I post a question about a problem w my truck?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>As a free member, where and how can I post a question about a problem w my truck?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f61/"><![CDATA[New Member Introductions & Forum Assistance]]></category>
			<dc:creator>JPJR2774</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f61/posting-rules-345921/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>IP clean up</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f31/ip-clean-up-345913/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:19:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I know this is blasphemy, but what do you guys think about simply opening up the IP, on the bench, and carefully cleaning parts without actually...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I know this is blasphemy, but what do you guys think about simply opening up the IP, on the bench, and carefully cleaning parts without actually changing any tolerances or messing with any adjustments that the IP-shop should mess with.  I know that there are low tolerance adjustments that shouln't be messed with unless you have the costly shop and know-how, but what about just cleaning parts?  I think I have some glycerine in one of my pumps and Lucas isn't cleaning it.  Dies on abrupt deceleration.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f31/">6.9L Diesels</category>
			<dc:creator>bthoms</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f31/ip-clean-up-345913/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>New member, but not new to reading all the help here.</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f61/new-member-but-not-new-reading-all-help-here-345897/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:07:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello. I spent so much time reading all the helpful post here, I figured it was time to finally join.  
 
Jim</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello. I spent so much time reading all the helpful post here, I figured it was time to finally join. <br />
<br />
Jim</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f61/"><![CDATA[New Member Introductions & Forum Assistance]]></category>
			<dc:creator>JPJR2774</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f61/new-member-but-not-new-reading-all-help-here-345897/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sway bar bushings</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f122/sway-bar-bushings-345881/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:00:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I ordered Energy suspension kit 4.5186 for my 1999.5 F250. The end links do not fit (too big). Anyone else have a 1999.5 and what kit did you order....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I ordered Energy suspension kit 4.5186 for my 1999.5 F250. The end links do not fit (too big). Anyone else have a 1999.5 and what kit did you order. I see that ES has a kit 4.5192 for 1999 (before 3/99). I am thinking some of my parts on my truck are pre 1999.5. Anyone else with this problem? I am now going to have to put it back together with the old worn out parts. I didn't press out the old ones yet. What would it hurt to run without the sway bar until I can get the right parts?<br />
 <br />
Mark</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f122/">Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension</category>
			<dc:creator>markbrown47</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f122/sway-bar-bushings-345881/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Extended crank/no start with readings</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/extended-crank-no-start-readings-345865/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 15:10:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Lately I have been getting an extended crank and sometimes a no start on the initial crank. It doesn't matter if it's 50* or 80* out. It's more...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Lately I have been getting an extended crank and sometimes a no start on the initial crank. It doesn't matter if it's 50* or 80* out. It's more pronounced on cold start up but also happens on warm start up.<br />
 <br />
I borrowed the Rotunda VCM diagnostic laptop from work and datalogged a few start ups. I don't know how to load the logs from the laptop.<br />
 <br />
Here are my readings/finds with a NO START. I kept cranking it for 8 secs with no start up. <br />
 <br />
RPM - 132<br />
IPR - 69.14%<br />
ICP - 1242 psi<br />
ICP - 1.71v<br />
 <br />
RPM - 127<br />
IPR - 76.56%<br />
ICP - 3713 psi<br />
ICP - 4.61v<br />
 <br />
I cycled the key and these are my readings when it finally fired<br />
 <br />
RPM - 517<br />
IPR - 51.95%<br />
ICP - 2521 psi<br />
ICP - 3.21v<br />
 <br />
next frame<br />
 <br />
RPM - 923<br />
IPR - 32.03%<br />
ICP - 3007 psi<br />
ICP - 3.78v<br />
 <br />
Idle readings<br />
 <br />
RPM- 680<br />
IPR - 16.01%<br />
ICP - 764 psi<br />
ICP - 1.14v<br />
 <br />
Usually when I have to cycle the key, it blows out black smoke then the common whitish/blue smoke on cold start up.<br />
 <br />
1997 7.3L w/ 227K The motor is all stock except for injectors, stock fuel, stock HPOP. No codes, nothing. New GPR. The EOT sensor is within 1-2* of ambient temp. Fuel pressure is bounces between 70-80 psi (CA shim). Had an oil analysis done about 1 month ago and it came back clean. I had the above issue when I did the oil analysis.<br />
 <br />
Thanks<br />
 <br />
Billy T.<br />
<a href="mailto:gnxtc2@aol.com">gnxtc2@aol.com</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/">Power Strokes 1994-1997 General</category>
			<dc:creator>gnxtc2</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/extended-crank-no-start-readings-345865/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>ARE Zseries or Snugtop Super Sport?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f152/zseries-snugtop-super-sport-345857/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 14:04:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I need to get a cap as we'll be travelling full-time and I need a place to securely store my 4 bikes (2 Road, 2 MTB).  I've narrowed it down to these...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need to get a cap as we'll be travelling full-time and I need a place to securely store my 4 bikes (2 Road, 2 MTB).  I've narrowed it down to these two based on what information I've been able to dig up.  It seems like Leer quality is hit or miss and their customer service is a miss based on most posts I've read so they're out.<br />
 <br />
I like the smooth lines of both of the ARE Zseries and Snugtop Super Sport, I don't think either is higher in the rear than the front either.  Also I believe both have a keyless entry option, which is cool.  I'm adding the power tailgate lock this weekend as well so it'll be nice to just hit the remote and unlock everything rather than fiddle with keys.<br />
 <br />
One thing I would consider if it was somehow seamless would be side windows that open to access the tailgate so long as the latches aren't sticking way out.  Anybody ever seen this option and can verify what it looks like?  I'm not 100% sure ARE or Snugtop offer it though.<br />
 <br />
Oh yeah, pics would be fantastic if anyone has them.  I've only been able to manage to round up a few photos here and there with the Google Images search.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f152/"><![CDATA['11-Up General Questions]]></category>
			<dc:creator>lwg</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f152/zseries-snugtop-super-sport-345857/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Freak temp climb</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/freak-temp-climb-345849/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 13:55:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Was pulling a 6,000lb camper on the highway, doing about 70 with 18-20lbs of boost.  I have the edge CTS so I always monitor my temps.  Everything...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Was pulling a 6,000lb camper on the highway, doing about 70 with 18-20lbs of boost.  I have the edge CTS so I always monitor my temps.  Everything was fine, running 196 coolant, 201 oil most of the time (biggest delta I saw was 7 degrees difference).  All of a sudden I heard my fan kick on and my gauges were showing 212 coolant and about the same on oil.<br />
<br />
Within a matter of a minute, both temps were climbing rapidly, I pulled into the right lane and eased off the pedal and dropped down to about 55 and they still were climbing and peaked at 228* and 227* (coolant/oil).  At that point they both dropped down and really took a nose dive quickly.  Oil dropped back down to about 197 and my coolant dropped down to 172 and then climbed back up to 194.  <br />
<br />
After that, it ran normal the rest of the trip to the campground.<br />
<br />
Coolant level is fine, cap holds pressure..  wondering if I had an air bubble somewhere or maybe my thermostat (replaced 20k ago) got stuck..  Can't think of what would cause that type of swing so quickly up and then so quickly down except the thermostat being that both temps were still within a few degrees of each other the whole time).<br />
<br />
Ideas?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/">6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>blwnsmoke</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/freak-temp-climb-345849/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>cummins question in a f650</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f12/cummins-question-f650-345841/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 13:45:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey there, 
  
I was just wondering, but if a 2000 F650 has a Cummins engine in it, is it going to be a 5.9 or could it be something else?  This...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey there,<br />
 <br />
I was just wondering, but if a 2000 F650 has a Cummins engine in it, is it going to be a 5.9 or could it be something else?  This truck also has a 6 speed manual in it, that looks to be a out of a 2/350 super duty truck?<br />
 <br />
The reason I ask is because we bought a 93 International 4900 18' dump from the same place and it had a dt-466 with 195 hp, 5 speed.  I put a gooseneck hitch in the dump bed and when I finally hooked something to it, it is terrible on power.<br />
 <br />
If the other truck has any more power or would do better, we might would get that truck and swap beds and then sell the International.  We really haven't looked at the F650 yet though because they haven't decided to sell it yet or not.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f12/">Ford 650/750 Medium Duties</category>
			<dc:creator>snowcrash</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f12/cummins-question-f650-345841/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Check Engine light stays on for a few days</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f149/check-engine-light-stays-few-days-345833/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 09:32:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I had my 2011 at the dealer for 25000 mile service and my check engine light was going on and staying on for 3 or 4 days periodically. The stored...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I had my 2011 at the dealer for 25000 mile service and my check engine light was going on and staying on for 3 or 4 days periodically. The stored code was P0401 and the EGR bypass actuator solenoid was replaced. I picked up the truck Friday afternoon and on the way home the check engine light went on. They had the truck 10 days. On the older Super Duties there was a way to check fault codes by switching the key off and on and the code would appear in the odometer, does anyone know if this is capable on the 2011 and up trucks?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f149/">6.7L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>tomallen</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f149/check-engine-light-stays-few-days-345833/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>5th Wheel Tailgate</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f32/5th-wheel-tailgate-345825/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 06:02:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Was looking to weld and create my own 5th wheel tailgate. However I am confused on how the gate latches to the truck. Can someone post a pic of the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Was looking to weld and create my own 5th wheel tailgate. However I am confused on how the gate latches to the truck. Can someone post a pic of the ends of the tailgate it would help me out greatly.<br />
<br />
JG<br />
<br />
<br />
<font color="gray">Sent from <a href="http://www.autoguide.com/mobile" target="_blank">AutoGuide.com App</a></font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f32/">Towing and Hauling</category>
			<dc:creator>JonGage</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f32/5th-wheel-tailgate-345825/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Day 15 of an oil cooler replacement/egr delete......</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/day-15-oil-cooler-replacement-egr-delete-345817/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 02:46:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Dropped the truck off on the 9th at NAPA auto here to do a 10 hour oil cooler/egr delete and today I finally get a "probably have it running in the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Dropped the truck off on the 9th at NAPA auto here to do a 10 hour oil cooler/egr delete and today I finally get a &quot;probably have it running in the morning&quot; phone call from the mechanic. I was nice and polite for the first few days, then persistent and a tad irritable for the next week. Now I'm pissed off. Hoping to get the truck tomorrow and asked about the cost and they are saying 1500$+++ since it was in the shop for so long. I've talked to the mechanic and his thing was &quot;since I'm the only one here I can only work on it for an hour or so a day, oh and by the way I found all these other things wrong and fixed them for you at cost&quot;.<br />
<br />
Trying to figure out how to get my truck back and not pay more than the 500$ for the install that I was quoted. I was told it would take no more than 10 hours/2 days to do this and it's been more than 2 weeks.....<br />
<br />
<br />
:icon_mad::icon_mad::icon_mad::icon_mad::icon_mad:  :icon_mad::icon_mad:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/">6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Junkers88</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/day-15-oil-cooler-replacement-egr-delete-345817/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>92 F350 7.3 Starting problems</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/92-f350-7-3-starting-problems-345801/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 00:46:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My daughter has a 92 f-350 with the 7.3 in it. The fuel lines and the seal on top of the injectors were old and leaking so we replaced them. We also...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My daughter has a 92 f-350 with the 7.3 in it. The fuel lines and the seal on top of the injectors were old and leaking so we replaced them. We also replaced one of the injectors. Since then it is having trouble starting. It was taking a long time to start and would run rough for a little bit till it caught up. After that we found a fuel leak in the hard line going to the fuel filter. We replaced that and it would start great most of the time but every now and then it would start and then die after 2 or 3 seconds then wouldn't start up again. we would have to let it sit for 30 minutes or so and then it would start again. We went in and replaced the fuel filter and it did great for about two days then did it again where it will start then die and not start again for 30 minutes. I am not sure where to go from here and not sure why the problem started after we replaced the fuel lines. If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/">7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)</category>
			<dc:creator>johncherry</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/92-f350-7-3-starting-problems-345801/</guid>
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