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		<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com</title>
		<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
		<description>This is a discussion forum dedicated to all Ford Diesel Trucks (Powerstroke Engine).</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:19:46 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<url>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Brake Issue. Pedal wont return!</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/brake-issue-pedal-wont-return-242664/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:14:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently bought an 88 350 4x4 that was sitting for a year, maybe two.  I'm in the process of ironing out some issues and the forum has been a huge help.  The brake pedal on this truck stays down when I press them to stop and I have to lift it up with my foot to un lock the brakes.  I want to fix this issue tomorrow.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.  I used the search function for awhile but didn't find anything.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I recently bought an 88 350 4x4 that was sitting for a year, maybe two.  I'm in the process of ironing out some issues and the forum has been a huge help.  The brake pedal on this truck stays down when I press them to stop and I have to lift it up with my foot to un lock the brakes.  I want to fix this issue tomorrow.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.  I used the search function for awhile but didn't find anything.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/">7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)</category>
			<dc:creator>Jwinter</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/brake-issue-pedal-wont-return-242664/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Best price on Stanadyne Performance Formula</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/best-price-stanadyne-performance-formula-242663/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:41:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Looking for the best price and best shipping on this product</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking for the best price and best shipping on this product</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>KingKong</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/best-price-stanadyne-performance-formula-242663/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power source for fuel pump</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/power-source-fuel-pump-242627/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:18:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Looking thru my OEM manuals for a place to connect a 3-5 amp draw for a fuel pump, but getting frustrated....
 
1. where is a quick and easy to get at / down-n-dirty, ignition key-activated power source (so I can get running)?
 
2. what is the BEST way to get a power source (long-term solution)
 
For #1, I'm looking at the glow-plug controller (with an inline fuse)...
 
 
Thanx]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking thru my OEM manuals for a place to connect a 3-5 amp draw for a fuel pump, but getting frustrated....<br />
 <br />
1. where is a quick and easy to get at / down-n-dirty, ignition key-activated power source (so I can get running)?<br />
 <br />
2. what is the BEST way to get a power source (long-term solution)<br />
 <br />
For #1, I'm looking at the glow-plug controller (with an inline fuse)...<br />
 <br />
 <br />
Thanx</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/">7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)</category>
			<dc:creator>GuyW</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/power-source-fuel-pump-242627/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Oil Puddles EVERYWHERE!</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/oil-puddles-everywhere-242624/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:04:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Every time i park somewhere i end up with oil marks under the truck over night it will leave maybe a 6x3 inch spot on the ground and while looking at it today the area at the back of the HPOP where the C clip holds whatever that plate is in theres oil.   so my question is can the circle area at the back of the HPOP leak oil like that?  i have another i was told 17* when i bought it that i can replace it with as the one in is the original but both look exactly the same exept for the fittings i think.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Every time i park somewhere i end up with oil marks under the truck over night it will leave maybe a 6x3 inch spot on the ground and while looking at it today the area at the back of the HPOP where the C clip holds whatever that plate is in theres oil.   so my question is can the circle area at the back of the HPOP leak oil like that?  i have another i was told 17* when i bought it that i can replace it with as the one in is the original but both look exactly the same exept for the fittings i think.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/">Power Strokes 1994-1997 General</category>
			<dc:creator>96strokerlb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/oil-puddles-everywhere-242624/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Looking to improve on my Elec fuel system</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f29/looking-improve-my-elec-fuel-system-242622/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:00:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ive been running a DIY elec fuel system for a couple months now.
 
 
My system still utilizes the banjo system at back of engine.
 
what ied like to do is put new fittings in the back of the heads with a steel line coming up from them to a Y from the Y to a hose barb fitting.
 
what fittings and line would i need for this and where would i find such items?
 
any help is greatly appreciated so i can get rid of the leaky banjo system</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ive been running a DIY elec fuel system for a couple months now.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
My system still utilizes the banjo system at back of engine.<br />
 <br />
what ied like to do is put new fittings in the back of the heads with a steel line coming up from them to a Y from the Y to a hose barb fitting.<br />
 <br />
what fittings and line would i need for this and where would i find such items?<br />
 <br />
any help is greatly appreciated so i can get rid of the leaky banjo system</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f29/">Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and Aftermarket</category>
			<dc:creator>96strokerlb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f29/looking-improve-my-elec-fuel-system-242622/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Touble Codes P2285 and P2263</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/touble-codes-p2285-p2263-242621/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:00:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[First of all, Thank You for allowing me to register. I have been a long time fan of this website. You have helped me several times. Researching these trouble codes have not given me any clues that they could be related, so here I am. I have already ordered a new ICP sensor & harness. Will pick up on my way to work. Could the 2263 be related? Which problem would attack first? I have noticed some surging and engine noise going from the 6.0 clack to a quieting, as discribed in several other posts about the 2263. The ICP code was first MIL. I preformed the oil & filter change due. Then got thee 2263 code the next day. Thinking it may have been the oil change that set the code I cleared them and the came back.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>First of all, Thank You for allowing me to register. I have been a long time fan of this website. You have helped me several times. Researching these trouble codes have not given me any clues that they could be related, so here I am. I have already ordered a new ICP sensor &amp; harness. Will pick up on my way to work. Could the 2263 be related? Which problem would attack first? I have noticed some surging and engine noise going from the 6.0 clack to a quieting, as discribed in several other posts about the 2263. The ICP code was first MIL. I preformed the oil &amp; filter change due. Then got thee 2263 code the next day. Thinking it may have been the oil change that set the code I cleared them and the came back.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/">6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Texas Fling</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/touble-codes-p2285-p2263-242621/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Hose at front of heads</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f29/hose-front-heads-242620/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:53:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I did an elec fuel system and have yet to determine where a 2in length of fuel hose goes at front of the pass side head  ive got both fuel return hoses hooked up and this hose used to goto the fuel bowl but i cant figoure out what for? 
 
it sits right beside the pass side head going down its side in the valley then up to the front under the alternator and other items.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I did an elec fuel system and have yet to determine where a 2in length of fuel hose goes at front of the pass side head  ive got both fuel return hoses hooked up and this hose used to goto the fuel bowl but i cant figoure out what for? <br />
 <br />
it sits right beside the pass side head going down its side in the valley then up to the front under the alternator and other items.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f29/">Power Strokes 1994-1997 Upgrades and Aftermarket</category>
			<dc:creator>96strokerlb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f29/hose-front-heads-242620/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Injector issues?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/injector-issues-242619/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:50:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My 03 injectors were replaced about 90K miles ago, I have 186K now. I am now experiencing similar issues at start up when the ambient temp is below about 75 as I did when they went bad before. I have been reading up on replacing them myself and plan on having my truck scanned at Pensacola Fuel Injection beginning of next week. It is running rough on cold start up for a few seconds then clears up. The other thing I noticed is that when I rev the engine up to 3K-3500 in park there is a noticable miss that I do not notice driving under load. This would lead me to think injectors. My question is, am I leaning the right direction with the injectors? They will sell me 04.5 injectors that are completly rebuilt for 149.00 each. I also have purchased an EGR delete that I can do at the same time while I am tearing the top end apart. I do not mind how long it will take me to do it since I have spare vehicles to drive. I have read the process and it seems well within my realm of capabilities. Thoughts, comments, and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My 03 injectors were replaced about 90K miles ago, I have 186K now. I am now experiencing similar issues at start up when the ambient temp is below about 75 as I did when they went bad before. I have been reading up on replacing them myself and plan on having my truck scanned at Pensacola Fuel Injection beginning of next week. It is running rough on cold start up for a few seconds then clears up. The other thing I noticed is that when I rev the engine up to 3K-3500 in park there is a noticable miss that I do not notice driving under load. This would lead me to think injectors. My question is, am I leaning the right direction with the injectors? They will sell me 04.5 injectors that are completly rebuilt for 149.00 each. I also have purchased an EGR delete that I can do at the same time while I am tearing the top end apart. I do not mind how long it will take me to do it since I have spare vehicles to drive. I have read the process and it seems well within my realm of capabilities. Thoughts, comments, and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/">6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Fully_Loaded</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/injector-issues-242619/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>FS:Hypertech power programmer 3 for a 03-06 ford</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f38/fs-hypertech-power-programmer-3-03-06-ford-242618/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:11:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys.  I have a Hypertech power programmer for a 03-06 ford diesel.  My brother had a 05 ford diesel that was lifted and stuff. He passed away last month and while cleaning some of the stuff in his office, I noticed this power programmer brand new in the box with all the instructions/proof of purchase, etc.
 
I thought to myself that someone should atleast have some use out of it.
I am a Subaru owner and pretty into the Subaru scene as far as aftermarket parts/tuning goes.  I know nothing about this tuner so please do your research before you purchase.  This programmer brand new goes for 300-400 dollars.  I am asking just 200.  I can ship within the United States or meet up locally. I am in Washington State.
 
If you have any questions/need pictures, please feel free to post them up here or PM me.
 
Thanks I really appreciate it,
-Daniel</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys.  I have a Hypertech power programmer for a 03-06 ford diesel.  My brother had a 05 ford diesel that was lifted and stuff. He passed away last month and while cleaning some of the stuff in his office, I noticed this power programmer brand new in the box with all the instructions/proof of purchase, etc.<br />
 <br />
I thought to myself that someone should atleast have some use out of it.<br />
I am a Subaru owner and pretty into the Subaru scene as far as aftermarket parts/tuning goes.  I know nothing about this tuner so please do your research before you purchase.  This programmer brand new goes for 300-400 dollars.  I am asking just 200.  I can ship within the United States or meet up locally. I am in Washington State.<br />
 <br />
If you have any questions/need pictures, please feel free to post them up here or PM me.<br />
 <br />
Thanks I really appreciate it,<br />
-Daniel</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f38/">Performance Enhancements For Sale</category>
			<dc:creator>Super_HKS</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f38/fs-hypertech-power-programmer-3-03-06-ford-242618/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2005 F250 CC/SB 4wd For Sale</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f36/2005-f250-cc-sb-4wd-sale-242617/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:46:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[2005 Dark Toreador Red F250 92k miles, CrewCab/Short Bed, 4wd, 6.0L Powerstroke Auto, Lariat and FX4 package, Line-X bed liner, front coil spring spacer, 17" DC1 look-a-likes, and dark tinted windows. Has almost every option besides for a sunroof. Truck is very clean and all stock, never had any type of performance mod on it. Runs very good and strong,  wasn't used to tow heavy or highway use. The only issues is the front Ford emblem is fading (the blue is flaking off), the tail gate has a few stretches, and the drivers and passenger door window glass is stretched.  
Will posted later this evening. 
 
Nada  Retail is $27425
Nada Rough Trade In is $19975 
 
Asking $20,500 obo  
 
Located in Beaufort, SC 
 
Email at nezsm76@yahoo.com or call (843)833-1107
Steven]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>2005 Dark Toreador Red F250 92k miles, CrewCab/Short Bed, 4wd, 6.0L Powerstroke Auto, Lariat and FX4 package, Line-X bed liner, front coil spring spacer, 17&quot; DC1 look-a-likes, and dark tinted windows. Has almost every option besides for a sunroof. Truck is very clean and all stock, never had any type of performance mod on it. Runs very good and strong,  wasn't used to tow heavy or highway use. The only issues is the front Ford emblem is fading (the blue is flaking off), the tail gate has a few stretches, and the drivers and passenger door window glass is stretched.  <br />
Will posted later this evening. <br />
 <br />
Nada  Retail is $27425<br />
Nada Rough Trade In is $19975 <br />
 <br />
Asking $20,500 obo  <br />
 <br />
Located in Beaufort, SC <br />
 <br />
Email at <a href="mailto:nezsm76@yahoo.com">nezsm76@yahoo.com</a> or call (843)833-1107<br />
Steven</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f36/">Trucks and Vans For Sale</category>
			<dc:creator>usmcracing</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f36/2005-f250-cc-sb-4wd-sale-242617/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Diesel Smog Check in California</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f33/diesel-smog-check-california-242616/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:19:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I just received an ET Blast on my smog machine....... we will be testing beginning Jan 1, 2010 all 1998 and newer diesel pwered vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) up to and including 14,000 pounds will be subject to biennial and change of ownership inspections. 

I feel sorry for all of you guys that have mods on your trucks, all I can say is good luck to you guys i'll try to help you guys thru the process as much as I can.

:thumbsup:

]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><div align="left"><font face="Arial Black">So I just received an ET Blast on my smog machine....... we will be testing beginning Jan 1, 2010 all 1998 and newer diesel pwered vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) up to and including 14,000 pounds will be subject to biennial and change of ownership inspections. <br />
<br />
I feel sorry for all of you guys that have mods on your trucks, all I can say is good luck to you guys i'll try to help you guys thru the process as much as I can.<br />
<br />
:thumbsup:<br />
</font></div></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f33/">General Diesel</category>
			<dc:creator>MHS911</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f33/diesel-smog-check-california-242616/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>7.3L engine is running away some...!</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/7-3l-engine-running-away-some-242615/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:06:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello... upon a cold start at -30, on my 91 F250, the engine takes 5-10 seconds of turning over before it starts to fire off (i think I have an air leak in the fuel system, but only happens when its below 0), then once its running, it idles up to 1000rpm, then 15 seconds later its 1100rpm, then its 1200rpm, then its 1300rpm......    if i disconnect the cold advance and the fast idle,  it will drop to around 600-700...
is it normal for the cold advance to raise the rpms up to 1300, or do I have something else going on?   
 
I have a 750 watt block heater, a 1000 watt circulation coolant heater, 300 watt oil pan heater, 150 watt trans pan heater, and 1.5amp battery charger all going to get her started...  it sucks some juice...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello... upon a cold start at -30, on my 91 F250, the engine takes 5-10 seconds of turning over before it starts to fire off (i think I have an air leak in the fuel system, but only happens when its below 0), then once its running, it idles up to 1000rpm, then 15 seconds later its 1100rpm, then its 1200rpm, then its 1300rpm......    if i disconnect the cold advance and the fast idle,  it will drop to around 600-700...<br />
is it normal for the cold advance to raise the rpms up to 1300, or do I have something else going on?   <br />
 <br />
I have a 750 watt block heater, a 1000 watt circulation coolant heater, 300 watt oil pan heater, 150 watt trans pan heater, and 1.5amp battery charger all going to get her started...  it sucks some juice...</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/">7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)</category>
			<dc:creator>boomvan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/7-3l-engine-running-away-some-242615/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Ford AIC for sale, practicaly new</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f40/ford-aic-sale-practicaly-new-242614/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:51:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Bought a AIC, and have used it for about 2 weeks now. It's way more then I really need, and will probably just go with a DP-Tuner. Comes with mounting bracket for the OBS style trucks, all the wiring and mounting equipment. Unit is in perfect condition and will be shipped in the ford box it came in.

Has preset idle rpm's and charge protect which will increase the idle to keep proper voltage at your battery.  Great way to warm up your truck on the cold mornings.
 
This AIC has the lcd screen but NO PTO.
 Image: http://i35.tinypic.com/28k5vye.jpg 


 
 
125 shipped to the 48?
 
Pm me if interested.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Bought a AIC, and have used it for about 2 weeks now. It's way more then I really need, and will probably just go with a DP-Tuner. Comes with mounting bracket for the OBS style trucks, all the wiring and mounting equipment. Unit is in perfect condition and will be shipped in the ford box it came in.<br />
<br />
Has preset idle rpm's and charge protect which will increase the idle to keep proper voltage at your battery.  Great way to warm up your truck on the cold mornings.<br />
 <br />
This AIC has the lcd screen but NO PTO.<br />
 <img src="http://i35.tinypic.com/28k5vye.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<br />
 <br />
 <br />
125 shipped to the 48?<br />
 <br />
Pm me if interested.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f40/">Electrical Accessories For Sale</category>
			<dc:creator>ckanderson</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f40/ford-aic-sale-practicaly-new-242614/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Are the jack the same for the F250 and F350?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f27/jack-same-f250-f350-242613/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:38:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I bought a used truck that was missing the jack.  Found a nice cheap one on ebay and it says its for a F250.  I cant imagine the jack are different, but wanted to make sure before I buy it.  Any ideas?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I bought a used truck that was missing the jack.  Found a nice cheap one on ebay and it says its for a F250.  I cant imagine the jack are different, but wanted to make sure before I buy it.  Any ideas?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f27/">General Questions</category>
			<dc:creator>kensington</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f27/jack-same-f250-f350-242613/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Turbo Intake Hose</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/turbo-intake-hose-242612/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:35:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Last weekend I replaced all 6 rubber hoses for Intake and intercooler and I found my turbo intake hose from air cleaner ( between turbo and CCV plastic adapter ) was cracked 1/2 way around turbo flange on the back side, sucking unfiltered air. The boot was pretty dry and hard compared to the new one I ordered on monday. So you guys need to just squeeze your boots right at the turbo inlet flange to check for cracks. Part # F81Z-9C681-BA about $50.00, 37.00 online. 99-03 7.3</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Last weekend I replaced all 6 rubber hoses for Intake and intercooler and I found my turbo intake hose from air cleaner ( between turbo and CCV plastic adapter ) was cracked 1/2 way around turbo flange on the back side, sucking unfiltered air. The boot was pretty dry and hard compared to the new one I ordered on monday. So you guys need to just squeeze your boots right at the turbo inlet flange to check for cracks. Part # F81Z-9C681-BA about $50.00, 37.00 online. 99-03 7.3</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>boomboom</dc:creator>
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