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		<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com - E-Series Vans</title>
		<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Technical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.]]></description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:37:57 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com - E-Series Vans</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Check this bad boy out</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/check-bad-boy-out-242674/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:06:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[4x4, 4WD 1-ton RV, Motorhome, Van! Dana 60 / 80. L@@K!!:eBay Motors (item 110458615689 end time Nov-23-09 16:00:44 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110458615689#v4-35)
I'm telling myself if only it had the 7.3L, but I wouldn't have the $$ either way.:jester:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img style='height:1px;width:1px;text-decoration:none;border:0;padding:0;margin:0;' src='http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpt=386730164&adtype=1&size=1x1&type=3&campid=5336116750&toolid=10001'> <a rel="nofollow" href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campid=5336116750&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D110458615689%23v4-35" target="_blank">4x4, 4WD 1-ton RV, Motorhome, Van! Dana 60 / 80. L@@K!!:eBay Motors (item 110458615689 end time Nov-23-09 16:00:44 PST)</a><br />
I'm telling myself if only it had the 7.3L, but I wouldn't have the $$ either way.:jester:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>505live</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/check-bad-boy-out-242674/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>brake caliper pistons</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/brake-caliper-pistons-242666/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:40:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I started to order pads, and some of the descriptions are coming up with '2 caliper piston'.  Rather than run up to my garage (it's raining), does anyone know how many pistons the front and rear brakes have; '99 model?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I started to order pads, and some of the descriptions are coming up with '2 caliper piston'.  Rather than run up to my garage (it's raining), does anyone know how many pistons the front and rear brakes have; '99 model?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>clev</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/brake-caliper-pistons-242666/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>disconnected the battery</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/disconnected-battery-242597/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:34:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i changed the gp relay on my van, when i did that i disconnected both batteries.
 
have only used the car 2 werry short times after that, but the tranny is acting weird. it changes gears much earlier and more in lockup than before. if i floor it, it will not downshift.
 
is it some learning prosses since it took of the batteries? have to take it for a longer drive today so se what happens then..</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i changed the gp relay on my van, when i did that i disconnected both batteries.<br />
 <br />
have only used the car 2 werry short times after that, but the tranny is acting weird. it changes gears much earlier and more in lockup than before. if i floor it, it will not downshift.<br />
 <br />
is it some learning prosses since it took of the batteries? have to take it for a longer drive today so se what happens then..</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>matsh</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/disconnected-battery-242597/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>drivers seat bracket</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/drivers-seat-bracket-242530/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:10:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 08 E-350 as you may or may not know already.
 
am i the only one that thinks these seats dont go back far enough. Granted I have a aftermarket seat but the track & mounting seems the same as when it was the oem seat. its a power seat base (still the same OEW seat pedistol) & I wouldnt even mind to switch to a manual seat base if It went back farther. It seems that the farthest it goes back is the farthest I would ever want to be forward. Im not a big guy at all 5'7 150lbs so if Im thinking the seating is cramped what would a 6 footer think about this? I had someone make some 1 inch thick steel bars into brackets the would bolt into the oem floor holes & then mount the seat back 6 inches but the problem is you are sitting up too high as the seat track goes up at a angle so when you start from farther back you arrive up front way high where your head is almost touching the ceiling.
 
i guess Im looking for a seat base that would bolt it that has a straight track so i can sit at a regular height. 
 
Im going to post pictures of these brackets I had made so you can see]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 08 E-350 as you may or may not know already.<br />
 <br />
am i the only one that thinks these seats dont go back far enough. Granted I have a aftermarket seat but the track &amp; mounting seems the same as when it was the oem seat. its a power seat base (still the same OEW seat pedistol) &amp; I wouldnt even mind to switch to a manual seat base if It went back farther. It seems that the farthest it goes back is the farthest I would ever want to be forward. Im not a big guy at all 5'7 150lbs so if Im thinking the seating is cramped what would a 6 footer think about this? I had someone make some 1 inch thick steel bars into brackets the would bolt into the oem floor holes &amp; then mount the seat back 6 inches but the problem is you are sitting up too high as the seat track goes up at a angle so when you start from farther back you arrive up front way high where your head is almost touching the ceiling.<br />
 <br />
i guess Im looking for a seat base that would bolt it that has a straight track so i can sit at a regular height. <br />
 <br />
Im going to post pictures of these brackets I had made so you can see</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>Premier Kirby</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/drivers-seat-bracket-242530/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>rebuilding front end question</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/rebuilding-front-end-question-242529/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:04:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Don't know much about suspension so I thought I would ask here. Van is starting to wander in lanes on the freeway. I have read posts about steering box and adjustment. I think I would like to just replace it. I have a friend with all the tools and knowlege. 
I would also like to replace tie rods, bushings, ball joints etc to make new again. Front end has never been touch aside from alignment.
What do you guys recommend to use and where to get?
I would love to support our sponsers.
Thanks, Dann]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Don't know much about suspension so I thought I would ask here. Van is starting to wander in lanes on the freeway. I have read posts about steering box and adjustment. I think I would like to just replace it. I have a friend with all the tools and knowlege. <br />
I would also like to replace tie rods, bushings, ball joints etc to make new again. Front end has never been touch aside from alignment.<br />
What do you guys recommend to use and where to get?<br />
I would love to support our sponsers.<br />
Thanks, Dann</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>dansk</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/rebuilding-front-end-question-242529/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Brakes, again</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/brakes-again-242315/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:24:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I posted a message a few weeks ago, but with bike/deer wrecks, Travel trailer axle replacement, diesel fuel bowl rebuild, family visit, I've lost track.  Anyway, I need to replace both front and rear brake pads.  I was leaning toward Hawk Semi-metallic, but have been reading about Creramic pads.  One thing that may be an issue is that ceramics may wear out the rotor prematurely.  Anyone have any experience with this?  My rotors are OEM and I assume the pads are semi-metallic.  They've worked good for 96,000 miles, so I'm unsure as to SM or Ceramic.  Also, I haven't pulled the wheels yet, and have not inspected the rotors.  At 96k, will they need replacing or turned?  If 96k normally wears them out, I'll order rotors when I order pads.  Any ideas?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I posted a message a few weeks ago, but with bike/deer wrecks, Travel trailer axle replacement, diesel fuel bowl rebuild, family visit, I've lost track.  Anyway, I need to replace both front and rear brake pads.  I was leaning toward Hawk Semi-metallic, but have been reading about Creramic pads.  One thing that may be an issue is that ceramics may wear out the rotor prematurely.  Anyone have any experience with this?  My rotors are OEM and I assume the pads are semi-metallic.  They've worked good for 96,000 miles, so I'm unsure as to SM or Ceramic.  Also, I haven't pulled the wheels yet, and have not inspected the rotors.  At 96k, will they need replacing or turned?  If 96k normally wears them out, I'll order rotors when I order pads.  Any ideas?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>clev</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/brakes-again-242315/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Another recall for the 1999 PS van....</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/another-recall-1999-ps-van-242298/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:47:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Well, last week I received a notice that there is another recall notice for my 1999.  Something brake related.....  Anyone else get this letter?  (I don't have the letter in front of me, so that's as specific as I can get right now...)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Well, last week I received a notice that there is another recall notice for my 1999.  Something brake related.....  Anyone else get this letter?  (I don't have the letter in front of me, so that's as specific as I can get right now...)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>Kaliburz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/another-recall-1999-ps-van-242298/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>My steering column is sloppy</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/my-steering-column-sloppy-242246/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 03:31:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought my 1996 E350 and it was this way.

The steering wheel is sloppy and moves in every direction about a half an inch.

The tilt wheel function doesn't seem to make any difference.

Is it OK to drive like this, I have been driving it continuously as I work on the servicing and cooling system and everything else.

It seems normal when I'm driving except when I try to move it around and it moves lots more than it should.

Anybody else have this problem?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I bought my 1996 E350 and it was this way.<br />
<br />
The steering wheel is sloppy and moves in every direction about a half an inch.<br />
<br />
The tilt wheel function doesn't seem to make any difference.<br />
<br />
Is it OK to drive like this, I have been driving it continuously as I work on the servicing and cooling system and everything else.<br />
<br />
It seems normal when I'm driving except when I try to move it around and it moves lots more than it should.<br />
<br />
Anybody else have this problem?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>midwestconnection</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/my-steering-column-sloppy-242246/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>I have a serious door lock problem</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/i-have-serious-door-lock-problem-242225/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:05:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[1996 E350  XLT Club

The guy that sold it to me handed me the several sets of keys and two push button door keyring unlocks and a magnet to put a key in and under the vehicle so I could get in if locked out. He said the keys were all the same.

Sure enough two days later I'm locked out with no way in because I hadn't put the magnet key holder under the van. Luckily the local police got me in by wedging the drivers door from the top back edge and reaching in with about a four foot piece of rebar, click and we were in in about five seconds.

The passenger door is the only door that will accept a key to open and it broke a few days ago so no key will let me in any door.

Sure enough I locked myself out again, inadvertently bumping the power lock switch getting out I suppose. I had the key in the magnet holder but no lock would accept it. So there I stood.

Luckily I was at home and having seen the cop put the wedge in and reach in there with a bar and hit the power door lock, I did the same thing and after a few tries and kids all over the place and in the rain I got in the same way the cop did. No damage done.

One of my pushbutton door lock key holder works and the other doesn't, I put new batteries in both.

So I hold onto the one battery operated hand key holder door lock with my life. I will not be so lucky next time.

How can I cure this problem. I need to be able to keep my motor running while parked here in the winter or I would disable the locks and the problem would be solved.

We have some "theft" problems around here and I don't want to leave it unlocked unless I have too.

I have a "club" theft control bar lock for the steering wheel  and I am also putting a bicycle cable lock on the steering wheel to the door panel opening so the theft problem except by experts is solved.

I hate having everything riding on that one battery operated key ring.

Does anybody have a cure for this, are these door handles and locks very fixable or are they hundreds of dollars for a fix.

I got to do something, a work around or a fix.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1996 E350  XLT Club<br />
<br />
The guy that sold it to me handed me the several sets of keys and two push button door keyring unlocks and a magnet to put a key in and under the vehicle so I could get in if locked out. He said the keys were all the same.<br />
<br />
Sure enough two days later I'm locked out with no way in because I hadn't put the magnet key holder under the van. Luckily the local police got me in by wedging the drivers door from the top back edge and reaching in with about a four foot piece of rebar, click and we were in in about five seconds.<br />
<br />
The passenger door is the only door that will accept a key to open and it broke a few days ago so no key will let me in any door.<br />
<br />
Sure enough I locked myself out again, inadvertently bumping the power lock switch getting out I suppose. I had the key in the magnet holder but no lock would accept it. So there I stood.<br />
<br />
Luckily I was at home and having seen the cop put the wedge in and reach in there with a bar and hit the power door lock, I did the same thing and after a few tries and kids all over the place and in the rain I got in the same way the cop did. No damage done.<br />
<br />
One of my pushbutton door lock key holder works and the other doesn't, I put new batteries in both.<br />
<br />
So I hold onto the one battery operated hand key holder door lock with my life. I will not be so lucky next time.<br />
<br />
How can I cure this problem. I need to be able to keep my motor running while parked here in the winter or I would disable the locks and the problem would be solved.<br />
<br />
We have some &quot;theft&quot; problems around here and I don't want to leave it unlocked unless I have too.<br />
<br />
I have a &quot;club&quot; theft control bar lock for the steering wheel  and I am also putting a bicycle cable lock on the steering wheel to the door panel opening so the theft problem except by experts is solved.<br />
<br />
I hate having everything riding on that one battery operated key ring.<br />
<br />
Does anybody have a cure for this, are these door handles and locks very fixable or are they hundreds of dollars for a fix.<br />
<br />
I got to do something, a work around or a fix.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>midwestconnection</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/i-have-serious-door-lock-problem-242225/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>E-Series Gas MPG?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/e-series-gas-mpg-242110/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 06:18:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi,
 
     Does anyone know aprox. mpg for the gas v8 and v10 in the E-Series vans?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
 <br />
     Does anyone know aprox. mpg for the gas v8 and v10 in the E-Series vans?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>svt_racer84</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/e-series-gas-mpg-242110/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[where is the GP relay on an '04 6.0 E-Series van?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/where-gp-relay-04-6-0-e-series-van-242073/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 21:29:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have looked but I don't know if thes are different than the older ones. It is the six liter and a 2004 model.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have looked but I don't know if thes are different than the older ones. It is the six liter and a 2004 model.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>centerline</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/where-gp-relay-04-6-0-e-series-van-242073/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>HELP! How to remove an ABS ring from Rotors?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/help-how-remove-abs-ring-rotors-242048/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 17:55:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am trying to replace my worn front brake rotors.
 
The Van:
94 Ford E350
DRW
4 wheel ABS
8 Lugs
 
I have been looking for a rotor with hub built in..but seems like no luck.
 
Now I need to remove the hub from Rotors...to replace just the rotor part.
 
Anybody know how to take out the ABS ring? (plz refer to the pics)
 
Do I need some special tool?
 
thanks in advance</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am trying to replace my worn front brake rotors.<br />
 <br />
The Van:<br />
94 Ford E350<br />
DRW<br />
4 wheel ABS<br />
8 Lugs<br />
 <br />
I have been looking for a rotor with hub built in..but seems like no luck.<br />
 <br />
Now I need to remove the hub from Rotors...to replace just the rotor part.<br />
 <br />
Anybody know how to take out the ABS ring? (plz refer to the pics)<br />
 <br />
Do I need some special tool?<br />
 <br />
thanks in advance</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>Real Prober</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/help-how-remove-abs-ring-rotors-242048/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[HELP, 7.3 in my van won't re-start after shutting off]]></title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/help-7-3-my-van-wont-re-start-after-shutting-off-242039/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:27:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I started my van and drove to work, everything was fine and it ran normal. I got to work and shut it off then about 3 hours later I needed to move it but it would not start. it cranks good and strong, but no smoke or nothing. I have not had to work on this van so I dont know what fuses are for what. in my pickup fuse 22 is the main fuse for ignition.... is it the same for my van?
one problem is when I pulled the dipstick there was no oil on the stick. it took about 3 quarts to bring it up to full. I still cannot get it to start. could I have gotten air in the HPOP? if so, how would I get the air out? why did it run good coming to work but would not start later?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I started my van and drove to work, everything was fine and it ran normal. I got to work and shut it off then about 3 hours later I needed to move it but it would not start. it cranks good and strong, but no smoke or nothing. I have not had to work on this van so I dont know what fuses are for what. in my pickup fuse 22 is the main fuse for ignition.... is it the same for my van?<br />
one problem is when I pulled the dipstick there was no oil on the stick. it took about 3 quarts to bring it up to full. I still cannot get it to start. could I have gotten air in the HPOP? if so, how would I get the air out? why did it run good coming to work but would not start later?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>centerline</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/help-7-3-my-van-wont-re-start-after-shutting-off-242039/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[No start '91 E350, runs when started]]></title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/no-start-91-e350-runs-when-started-242023/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 03:41:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey Guys,
 
I just joined the forum after lurking for a long time.  I finally have 2 diesels (2002 f350, 91 e350 ambulance van) and figured it was time to join!
 
Here's the Q.
 
I have the 91 E350, and it runs when it is started, but will not start.  It continued to get harder and harder to start until it finally would not start at all.  Cranks over strong.  Towards the end it would crank and finally start, but would idle rough for a few seconds and die.  It would then usually start again and would run fine once going.  It would always start when the engine was warm.  Now it will not start at all.  
 
Thanks for any advice.
 
Erik]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey Guys,<br />
 <br />
I just joined the forum after lurking for a long time.  I finally have 2 diesels (2002 f350, 91 e350 ambulance van) and figured it was time to join!<br />
 <br />
Here's the Q.<br />
 <br />
I have the 91 E350, and it runs when it is started, but will not start.  It continued to get harder and harder to start until it finally would not start at all.  Cranks over strong.  Towards the end it would crank and finally start, but would idle rough for a few seconds and die.  It would then usually start again and would run fine once going.  It would always start when the engine was warm.  Now it will not start at all.  <br />
 <br />
Thanks for any advice.<br />
 <br />
Erik</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>eshallbetter</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[How to Remove Arm Rest from '91 Bench Seat]]></title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/how-remove-arm-rest-91-bench-seat-241975/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:51:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm enjoying my new van and brainstorming on camping configurations.

I'd like to flip the front bench seat around, but it won't fit against the driver's side wall with the arm rest attached.

Anyone know how I can remove it without tearing the fabric or foam?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm enjoying my new van and brainstorming on camping configurations.<br />
<br />
I'd like to flip the front bench seat around, but it won't fit against the driver's side wall with the arm rest attached.<br />
<br />
Anyone know how I can remove it without tearing the fabric or foam?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/">E-Series Vans</category>
			<dc:creator>xeridad</dc:creator>
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