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		<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com - 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</title>
		<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
		<description>Discussion of the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models.  Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:05:05 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<url>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com - 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Turbo Intake Hose</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/turbo-intake-hose-242612/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:35:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Last weekend I replaced all 6 rubber hoses for Intake and intercooler and I found my turbo intake hose from air cleaner ( between turbo and CCV plastic adapter ) was cracked 1/2 way around turbo flange on the back side, sucking unfiltered air. The boot was pretty dry and hard compared to the new one I ordered on monday. So you guys need to just squeeze your boots right at the turbo inlet flange to check for cracks. Part # F81Z-9C681-BA about $50.00, 37.00 online. 99-03 7.3</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Last weekend I replaced all 6 rubber hoses for Intake and intercooler and I found my turbo intake hose from air cleaner ( between turbo and CCV plastic adapter ) was cracked 1/2 way around turbo flange on the back side, sucking unfiltered air. The boot was pretty dry and hard compared to the new one I ordered on monday. So you guys need to just squeeze your boots right at the turbo inlet flange to check for cracks. Part # F81Z-9C681-BA about $50.00, 37.00 online. 99-03 7.3</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>boomboom</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/turbo-intake-hose-242612/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Oil temp idiot light stays on?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/oil-temp-idiot-light-stays-242605/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:40:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[When I started my truck yesterday the oil temperature idiot light stayed on for about 2-3 seconds once the truck was started.  I dont remember it staying on that long in the past....Am I crazy and it always did?  I "thought" it would shut off almost immediately upon cranking the engine.
 
It is a red light in the upper left of instrument panel/guages.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>When I started my truck yesterday the oil temperature idiot light stayed on for about 2-3 seconds once the truck was started.  I dont remember it staying on that long in the past....Am I crazy and it always did?  I &quot;thought&quot; it would shut off almost immediately upon cranking the engine.<br />
 <br />
It is a red light in the upper left of instrument panel/guages.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>jgarden</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/oil-temp-idiot-light-stays-242605/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Leaking in Dahlonega</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/leaking-dahlonega-242602/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:47:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I need a mechanic in the Dahlonega, Georgia area TODAY.:sick:
 
I'm visiting here, and when I cranked up this morning, fuel started pouring on the ground at the rear of the engine.  It seems to be running into the valley from somewhere.  The Filter is not leaking around the top, and the housing is dry as far down as I can reach.
 
The only dealer I know of is Chestatee Ford, but I don't remember thinking it looked like a truck place.
 
Any help will be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
 
Art]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need a mechanic in the Dahlonega, Georgia area TODAY.:sick:<br />
 <br />
I'm visiting here, and when I cranked up this morning, fuel started pouring on the ground at the rear of the engine.  It seems to be running into the valley from somewhere.  The Filter is not leaking around the top, and the housing is dry as far down as I can reach.<br />
 <br />
The only dealer I know of is Chestatee Ford, but I don't remember thinking it looked like a truck place.<br />
 <br />
Any help will be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.<br />
 <br />
Art</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>artkelly</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/leaking-dahlonega-242602/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>drive shaft ?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/drive-shaft-242601/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:07:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've got a vibration had u-joints replaced and wheel bearings inspected by a couple mechanics and the last mechanic told me I have a drive shaft vibration. The mechanic I had replace the u-joints said there was a little play in the slip yoke (if that's what it's called?) on the shaft.
 
My question is as the there are 220,000 miles on the rig and I've decided to invest in keeping it for about twice that, should I just get a new/reconditioned shaft rather than paying to have the existing one examined. As the current shaft has a little play in it my thinking is why not just get a new one?
 
I realize it's possible that the shaft won't cure the problem, but I'd have the piece of mind of knowing I'd upgraded things. 
 
Also as I've made the mistake of buying a cheap hub for the front, is there a "minimum quality" threshold for a new/reconditioned shaft and does anyone have recommendations for where to get one. When I google them I see some reconditioned shafts pop up for about $350.
 
Any thoughts would be appreciated - Thanks - Dan]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've got a vibration had u-joints replaced and wheel bearings inspected by a couple mechanics and the last mechanic told me I have a drive shaft vibration. The mechanic I had replace the u-joints said there was a little play in the slip yoke (if that's what it's called?) on the shaft.<br />
 <br />
My question is as the there are 220,000 miles on the rig and I've decided to invest in keeping it for about twice that, should I just get a new/reconditioned shaft rather than paying to have the existing one examined. As the current shaft has a little play in it my thinking is why not just get a new one?<br />
 <br />
I realize it's possible that the shaft won't cure the problem, but I'd have the piece of mind of knowing I'd upgraded things. <br />
 <br />
Also as I've made the mistake of buying a cheap hub for the front, is there a &quot;minimum quality&quot; threshold for a new/reconditioned shaft and does anyone have recommendations for where to get one. When I google them I see some reconditioned shafts pop up for about $350.<br />
 <br />
Any thoughts would be appreciated - Thanks - Dan</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>danielcward</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/drive-shaft-242601/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>where to get o rings for the fuel drain valve</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/where-get-o-rings-fuel-drain-valve-242600/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:23:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>can i just get them from the local hardware store?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>can i just get them from the local hardware store?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>lariat 7.3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/where-get-o-rings-fuel-drain-valve-242600/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Transmission "hunting" between 50-55 mph?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/transmission-hunting-between-50-55-mph-242586/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:31:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello there, new to the forum here. I have a 2001 F250 4X4 with 213,000 miles on it, engine is completely stock. It is running great, however I have noticed the tranny cannot decide between the top gear and overdrive (shifts back and forth), between 50-55mph or so, the first time I get on the highway and up to speed after the truck is cold. It will go back and forth 4-5 times, and then it is fine the rest of the time you drive it, goes into overdrive when accelerating properly and holds it while cruising no problem. Shifts all feel good and smooth except for this small problem. I have watched the "o/d off" button on the shifter during the hunting, and it is not doing anything funny so I do not think it is the steering column wiring. 
 
So I am curious what direction I should go from here, thanks in advance for any help. I am hoping it will not require a complete transmission teardown!!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello there, new to the forum here. I have a 2001 F250 4X4 with 213,000 miles on it, engine is completely stock. It is running great, however I have noticed the tranny cannot decide between the top gear and overdrive (shifts back and forth), between 50-55mph or so, the first time I get on the highway and up to speed after the truck is cold. It will go back and forth 4-5 times, and then it is fine the rest of the time you drive it, goes into overdrive when accelerating properly and holds it while cruising no problem. Shifts all feel good and smooth except for this small problem. I have watched the &quot;o/d off&quot; button on the shifter during the hunting, and it is not doing anything funny so I do not think it is the steering column wiring. <br />
 <br />
So I am curious what direction I should go from here, thanks in advance for any help. I am hoping it will not require a complete transmission teardown!!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Corless116</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/transmission-hunting-between-50-55-mph-242586/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>no start</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/no-start-242584/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:23:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i have a 94 powerstroke i pulled the hpop off because it kept blowing the oil line and cleaned it up i put it all back together. i primed the oil system and changed the icp sensor but still no start. the codes that came up was p1211,p0340,p0198 if anyone can help please do.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i have a 94 powerstroke i pulled the hpop off because it kept blowing the oil line and cleaned it up i put it all back together. i primed the oil system and changed the icp sensor but still no start. the codes that came up was p1211,p0340,p0198 if anyone can help please do.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>guthriem</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/no-start-242584/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>recommended fuel saving chip</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/recommended-fuel-saving-chip-242581/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:07:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I came over from the Non Powerstroke section to ask a ? about my buddys 2000 Powerstroke.I could not give him any advice on this subject because my truck has no computor.He has a nice truck with plenty of power,but would like to rechip to get a little better milage.Thanks for any suggestions about which chip to choose....robert</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I came over from the Non Powerstroke section to ask a ? about my buddys 2000 Powerstroke.I could not give him any advice on this subject because my truck has no computor.He has a nice truck with plenty of power,but would like to rechip to get a little better milage.Thanks for any suggestions about which chip to choose....robert</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>robertleo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/recommended-fuel-saving-chip-242581/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Expected life of ball joints</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/expected-life-ball-joints-242574/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:10:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[How long should ball joints last, generally?
 
My original ones are shot at 82K and I'm sure they've been gone for probably the last 10K. Front tires wore really bad on outside.
 
Are Ford ball joints any good? Or are they junk? Thinking of having them do them for quote of $750.
 
edit:  What causes ball joint failure?  What can be done to extend joint life...........on not greasable joints]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How long should ball joints last, generally?<br />
 <br />
My original ones are shot at 82K and I'm sure they've been gone for probably the last 10K. Front tires wore really bad on outside.<br />
 <br />
Are Ford ball joints any good? Or are they junk? Thinking of having them do them for quote of $750.<br />
 <br />
edit:  What causes ball joint failure?  What can be done to extend joint life...........on not greasable joints</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>teesh</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/expected-life-ball-joints-242574/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Engine Warmup</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/engine-warmup-242564/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:57:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello,

I have a question.  For the past couple of years of owning my 99 PSD, it seemed to take forever to warm up during the cold months, I always had the defroster on.  This year for some reason I ran it with just the heater on and it seems to warm up alot faster.  Is this possible or am I just imagining things?  I welcome all feedback.

macmann:ford:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
<br />
I have a question.  For the past couple of years of owning my 99 PSD, it seemed to take forever to warm up during the cold months, I always had the defroster on.  This year for some reason I ran it with just the heater on and it seems to warm up alot faster.  Is this possible or am I just imagining things?  I welcome all feedback.<br />
<br />
macmann:ford:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>macmann</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/engine-warmup-242564/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>eed Help! Torque Converter or Tranny Rebuild?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/eed-help-torque-converter-tranny-rebuild-242554/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:36:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys i got an F350 superduty diesel 7.3 turbo diesel, 4wd, crew cab long box lifted, i was at my farm on saturday and i got stuck in the mud 2 ft deep so i was rocking forward and back to get out, i was in 4wd low, i locked my front hubs and eventualy got out but got stuck again etc, in the end i used a backhoe to get out and when i did get on hard road my truck didnt want to get out of 4wd low so i kept driving and i unlocked the hubs and eventually while tooling around thru gears i got it out but it wont move in drive only in reverse and first , it feels like the engine runs but it isnt turning the tranny i hear a weird noise but in 1st i can get it rolling but if i apply any load it wont move just ev up, is this the torque converter or do i need a tranny rebuild, the TC is 1400 and the parts for a master rebuild are 1000 ill be doin it myself but still i just want to eliminate one of them any help is great, also before it would have delay when i changed from r to d like i could be rolling and switch into drive and it would be a few seconds before it kicked in fully this is before the mud issue so that might be a hint, i also pull heavy trailer so that adds to the problem........


thanks for any help






Brian M. Aguiar
WPI 2013
Mechanical Engineer
Stod A3
774-991-1949
::2003 F350 LariatSuperDuty 7.3L Turbo Diesel
CrewCab Long Bed, 4' Lift, K&N, Rancho Lift, Rancho Steering,
BIODIESEL:::]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys i got an F350 superduty diesel 7.3 turbo diesel, 4wd, crew cab long box lifted, i was at my farm on saturday and i got stuck in the mud 2 ft deep so i was rocking forward and back to get out, i was in 4wd low, i locked my front hubs and eventualy got out but got stuck again etc, in the end i used a backhoe to get out and when i did get on hard road my truck didnt want to get out of 4wd low so i kept driving and i unlocked the hubs and eventually while tooling around thru gears i got it out but it wont move in drive only in reverse and first , it feels like the engine runs but it isnt turning the tranny i hear a weird noise but in 1st i can get it rolling but if i apply any load it wont move just ev up, is this the torque converter or do i need a tranny rebuild, the TC is 1400 and the parts for a master rebuild are 1000 ill be doin it myself but still i just want to eliminate one of them any help is great, also before it would have delay when i changed from r to d like i could be rolling and switch into drive and it would be a few seconds before it kicked in fully this is before the mud issue so that might be a hint, i also pull heavy trailer so that adds to the problem........<br />
<br />
<br />
thanks for any help<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Brian M. Aguiar<br />
WPI 2013<br />
Mechanical Engineer<br />
Stod A3<br />
774-991-1949<br />
::2003 F350 LariatSuperDuty 7.3L Turbo Diesel<br />
CrewCab Long Bed, 4' Lift, K&amp;N, Rancho Lift, Rancho Steering,<br />
BIODIESEL:::</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>aguiarb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/eed-help-torque-converter-tranny-rebuild-242554/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>4R100 wont engage Drive unless reved every time</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/4r100-wont-engage-drive-unless-reved-every-time-242551/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:45:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>2002 F450. The 4r100 trans has been doing this for 20k miles. Does not matter if warm or cold. Can drive it 400 miles and it will do it instantly. The issue is if you put the trans in Drive (or 1st) it does not engage and needs reved to 1,500- 2,000 RPM and then engages. From then on as long as you don’t shift out of Drive it stays engaged. If you shift to R and back it needs reved. I have pulled 15,000 lb. loads 800 miles miltiple times and hauled 20-30 cars behind this truck over the past few years with it this way. It has not changed. Also, Reverse engages instantly even when cold. Any ideas? I know if I take it to a trans shop they are going to say it needs rebuilt and it will be $4,000.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font size="3"><font face="Calibri">2002 F450. The 4r100 trans has been doing this for 20k miles. Does not matter if warm or cold. Can drive it 400 miles and it will do it instantly. The issue is if you put the trans in Drive (or 1st) it does not engage and needs reved to 1,500- 2,000 RPM and then engages. From then on as long as you don’t shift out of Drive it stays engaged. If you shift to R and back it needs reved. I have pulled 15,000 lb. loads 800 miles miltiple times and hauled 20-30 cars behind this truck over the past few years with it this way. It has not changed. Also, Reverse engages instantly even when cold. Any ideas? I know if I take it to a trans shop they are going to say it needs rebuilt and it will be $4,000.</font></font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>PPrash</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/4r100-wont-engage-drive-unless-reved-every-time-242551/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need Help Asap</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/need-help-asap-242546/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:45:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Have a 99 7.3 that is giving intermentant problems with wts light not comming on and check engine light not coming on and no start and then today was driving truck and it died and wouldent refire till after it was towed home and sat for about 3 hours it is throwing a code of P0603 pcm processor keep alive memory (kam) error dont know if that is the problem or not any help would be appriciated this truck is stock with 4in exhaust as the only mod and has 146xxx miles on it  
Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Have a 99 7.3 that is giving intermentant problems with wts light not comming on and check engine light not coming on and no start and then today was driving truck and it died and wouldent refire till after it was towed home and sat for about 3 hours it is throwing a code of P0603 pcm processor keep alive memory (kam) error dont know if that is the problem or not any help would be appriciated this truck is stock with 4in exhaust as the only mod and has 146xxx miles on it  <br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>lpfd778</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/need-help-asap-242546/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Cold Start (or lack of a start)</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/cold-start-lack-start-242543/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:03:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have read other threads for a couple of hours on "Cold Starting..etc" and couldn't find what I was looking for, so unfortunatley...I started another thread.:thumbsup:
 
My issue... When it is 30+/- degrees outside, My truck won't start right away.  Anything higher than say 35...no problems.  When it is cold, i will let the GPs heat up for about 30-45 seconds before I start.  The truck sounds like it wants to start (maybe 1/2 of a second of starting sound) then nothing.  Last week when it was 12 degrees out, it took about 30 minutes of trying before it would finally "take" and stay running.  The truck was even plugged in for 3 hours before I tried.  I have Diesel Kleen additive (white bottle) in the fuel, and took off the fuel filter on the coldest day, and it was all full and fine (no gel).
 
Why i don't think it is the batteries...  Well, after 30 minutes of trying to start the truck, the starter was still turning over fast and was able to start the truck (no I didn't hold the starter down for 30 minutes...just maybe a 5 seconds every minute or so).  The oil level (Rotella 5w-30 syn) is fine (although it is at 5k miles).  
 
What would be the symptoms of a bad/failing GPR or Glow Plugs?  I live in Northern Nevada (Fallon) so it doesn't get any colder the 10degrees or so, but it is that cold almost every dawn during the winter...and quite frankly, i dread going out to try to start it when I know it is cold.  
 
I'm going to change the oil to Mobil 1 diesel synthetic (because wally-world no longer carries the Rotella Synthetic...but I doubt that will help much.  like I said, it wants to start at EVERY attempt, but never quite goes beyond that original fire.  And when she does finally start, white smoke pours out for minutes.
 
Any suggestions??]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have read other threads for a couple of hours on &quot;Cold Starting..etc&quot; and couldn't find what I was looking for, so unfortunatley...I started another thread.:thumbsup:<br />
 <br />
My issue... When it is 30+/- degrees outside, My truck won't start right away.  Anything higher than say 35...no problems.  When it is cold, i will let the GPs heat up for about 30-45 seconds before I start.  The truck sounds like it wants to start (maybe 1/2 of a second of starting sound) then nothing.  Last week when it was 12 degrees out, it took about 30 minutes of trying before it would finally &quot;take&quot; and stay running.  The truck was even plugged in for 3 hours before I tried.  I have Diesel Kleen additive (white bottle) in the fuel, and took off the fuel filter on the coldest day, and it was all full and fine (no gel).<br />
 <br />
Why i don't think it is the batteries...  Well, after 30 minutes of trying to start the truck, the starter was still turning over fast and was able to start the truck (no I didn't hold the starter down for 30 minutes...just maybe a 5 seconds every minute or so).  The oil level (Rotella 5w-30 syn) is fine (although it is at 5k miles).  <br />
 <br />
What would be the symptoms of a bad/failing GPR or Glow Plugs?  I live in Northern Nevada (Fallon) so it doesn't get any colder the 10degrees or so, but it is that cold almost every dawn during the winter...and quite frankly, i dread going out to try to start it when I know it is cold.  <br />
 <br />
I'm going to change the oil to Mobil 1 diesel synthetic (because wally-world no longer carries the Rotella Synthetic...but I doubt that will help much.  like I said, it wants to start at EVERY attempt, but never quite goes beyond that original fire.  And when she does finally start, white smoke pours out for minutes.<br />
 <br />
Any suggestions??</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>straight flush</dc:creator>
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			<title>fuel injector cup replacement</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/fuel-injector-cup-replacement-242542/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:59:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Can I please have some help I have a 2002 F250 7.3 PSD and I have a leaking injector cup. I don't want to pay the price the dealership wants to charge, so I am going to try and do it myself. Can nyone suggest a manuel that will work good for me or have directions and pictures of how to do it. Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Can I please have some help I have a 2002 F250 7.3 PSD and I have a leaking injector cup. I don't want to pay the price the dealership wants to charge, so I am going to try and do it myself. Can nyone suggest a manuel that will work good for me or have directions and pictures of how to do it. Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/">7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>chipster14265</dc:creator>
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