Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com - Power Strokes 1994-1997 General

Headlight aiming?

RonKZ650 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:19:42 GMT

My headlights are majorly screwed up thanks to an botched body shop job. I'm very particular and want things right. I've read the procedure of being 25Ft from a vertical wall and adjusting the lamps. My question is does anyone know for sure what the vertical drop at 25' spec is for our trucks. Internet says 2" regardless of vehical in one place, another says 3", another 3.5". Anyone know?
Thanks,

trade in value???

4door96 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:15:46 GMT

I was looking at a 98 f150 ex cab with 138,000 miles on a 5.4, the car dealer said my truck wasnt worth more than 2,500. Please tell me thats not right.

Poor Fuel Economy

BMoreRvns20 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:57:37 GMT

I have 3.55's in my truck and under normal driving conditions around my town, im lucky to get 13mpg. I do have 285's, but i wouldn't think that would make me have such poor economy. A friend has 4.10's and he says he can get about 17 doing the same route i do every day. My fuel filter was just replaced and my air cleaner is clean. Is there anything that could be causing this, or is it just a fact of my engine. Thanks for any assistance.

Oil Puddles EVERYWHERE!

96strokerlb — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:04:16 GMT

Every time i park somewhere i end up with oil marks under the truck over night it will leave maybe a 6x3 inch spot on the ground and while looking at it today the area at the back of the HPOP where the C clip holds whatever that plate is in theres oil. so my question is can the circle area at the back of the HPOP leak oil like that? i have another i was told 17* when i bought it that i can replace it with as the one in is the original but both look exactly the same exept for the fittings i think.

Replacing rear axel seal

creationsnglass — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:31:58 GMT

Have the usual Mess with the seal leaking. Will replace today but have a question for the forum. I have read on some posts that the seal leaks because of a vent stopping up and causing the diff fluid to push out of seals when it heats up. I was checking my diff and can find no hose on the top or a vent of any kind. So do the seals just fail or is this a defect.Thanks to all , love this forum!!

DB Starter Dead or ?

Greger96OBS — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:52:53 GMT

About 3 weeks ago I bought a DB electrical HT starter installed it and it's been good.Until today!just click So I took it to the local O'riely's checker auto to have it tested they didn't have the right part # to put in there computer,but it said Pass!the pinion poped out but it did not spin!Any body have any ideas good or bad?starter relay?Thanks

Glow plugs done.

swampcreek — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:00:31 GMT

I did the glow plugs. In an earlier post I was wondering if 10lbs torque was enough on the GP's. Since it'e only <1/4 turn for the extra 4 'lbs, I figure the passenger side can stay at 10lbs.

Now here is the funny thing about the project. ALL the passenger side glow plugs tested bad at infinite ohms. ALL the drivers side plugs tested good ranging from o.oo to .4 ohms. I tested to make sure the drivers side was getting voltage, but still this seems wierd. Anyone hear of such a thing?

I would have started her up tonight but I ripped the air intake boot so it's off to the stealership tomorrow.

Oil Analysis ?'s

96strokerlb — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:53:26 GMT

Here is what i got back for my first ever OA on my 96. W/200k Miles and 4500 Miles on the oil

and im not sure what im looking at really so if anyone could point out judging by the analysis how healthy the ol girl is that would be great thanks.

Blackstone Labs Sample

ALUMINUM - 2
CHROMIUM - 3
IRON - 43
COPPER - 1
LEAD - 3
TIN - 0
MOLYBDENUM - 6
NICKEL - 2

MANGANESE - 0

SILVER - 0
TITANIUM -0
POTASSIUM - 9
BORON - 36
SILICON - 9
SODIUM - 8
CALCIUM - 2133

MAGNESIUM - 10

PHOSPHORUS - 996
ZINC - 1180

BARIUM - 0

cSt Viscosity @ 100�C - 73.7
SUS Viscosity @ 210�F - 13.93
Flashpoint in �F - 420
Fuel % - <.5
Antifreeze % - 0
Water % - 0
Insolubles % .3

TBN - 8.5

re: door trim panels

DABOSS — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:48:03 GMT

Aloha Folks-
another interior questions as they say. I have been wanting to replace my door trim panels for both of my doors. I know these are getting much harder to get new but my Ford guy thinks he found 1 side maybe both.

The question though is if it will fit. My truck was made 1/1996. So he says that my part number is F6TZ-152943-GAD He says he cannot locate the driver's side or the passenger side.

But he has found a part, number F6TZ-1523943-BAD which are for trucks made before 10/28/1995. It looks the same as my passenger side trim.

And, the color of my interior is the Opal Grey.

So, my question is will this older part fit on my truck's doors? If not, is there a place where our DieselStop members go to buy new old stock parts like these interior trim panels?

Thank you so much.
mahalo!

re: Vent Window Handles/latches

DABOSS — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:40:44 GMT

Aloha Folks-

Well, I finally decide to replace my brittle-greyish color looking handles for the vent windows on our doors with new ones that nice and black! So, I ordered the handles (part numbers E9TZ-1522916-A and E9TZ-1522917-A) along with the new push button part that goes in them and activates the spring that releases the latch.

My questions are for taking off the old handle and installing the new ones. It comes with what looks like a "pin". How would you take off the old handle and pin and then install the new ones? I just want to make sure I do not hurt the vent window mechanism.

So, any help, tips, tricks for this removal and install job would be great.
Mahalo

No start...How to test CPS?

cpmulherin — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:26:01 GMT

I have a 95 Powerstroke that won't start. I have changed the CPS in it before so that was my first thought this morning when it would just crank and not fire. How can I test to see if the CPS is the issue or not.

The truck didn't just die on me like it did a few years ago while driving, which was the cps that time.

rebuilding front end question

dansk — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:16:01 GMT

Don't know much about suspension so I thought I would ask here. Van is starting to wander in lanes on the freeway. I have read posts about steering box and adjustment. I think I would like to just replace it. I have a friend with all the tools and knowlege.
I would also like to replace tie rods, bushings etc to make new again. Front end has never been touch aside from alignment.
What do you guys recommend to use and where to get?
I would love to support our sponsers.
Thanks, Dann

Did Glow plugs at wrong torque values, redo?

swampcreek — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:26:30 GMT

I'm in the process of replacing my glow plugs. ALL passenger side GP's tested bad and were replaced. That valve cover is a PIA!!! (Well at least I made some new and strange looking tools!). Anyway, I got the torque values mixed up in my head and only torqued the GP's to between 8 and 10 pounds (VC torques):icon_rolleyes:. Should I go back in and re-torque to 14lbs? I really hate the idea of going back into that side of the motor when today was slated for the drivers side.

7.3 mystery problems. Can anyone help diagnose???

OwnerOfTheBigBlueMoneyPit — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:16:53 GMT

I'm FLAT BROKE, and tired of throwing money into this piece of crap of a van, but I need to work, so I need the van!!! If I can get the van going, and business picks up I can trade this thing in for an Isuzu Cab Forward, but for now my only option is to fix what i have.
Can ANYONE shed any light?
1996 E-350 7.3 Diesel
Runs like a brand new van then for no apparent reason, at any time variable (might happen every 5 seconds or every 5 days) it will drop RPMs, and speed reduces. It might just decrease enough that I can resume for a while with no serious results, but not climb a big hill, and then again it might decline so much that I have to pull over and stop.
Once it happens iy sounds like it's running on less cylinders, and the speed varies. When you rev it up it has a serious hesitation. When it's idling even slower it sounds (of course) much worse.
Nothing seems to help. I've tried gradually increasing speed, stomping the gas, shutting it off for a couple seconds, and flooring it and holding it there. (Yeah, not a smart thing to do, but I was mad and you know how that goes.)
If I'm going fast (65, 75, etc) I might can keep it going till it resumes power. If I'm in the city, I'm probably going to have to find a place to pull over. Once stopped the best solution I have found is to just let it idle in park till the RPMs resume back to normal. Then it will run normally, and then again, maybe not.
Rain seems to worsen it. Actually, rain stops it. If it rains for a couple days, I can't start it at all. If it's moist out it's problematic, If it's dry outside it does much better.

Here is what I've tried:

Fuel injection cleaner in gas (diesel)

Slick diesel in tank

water grabber in tank

fuel filter replaced (yes I filled it with fuel, till it overflowed... to wash away and surface water)

replaced most of fuses under hood and cleaned the fuse panel beside the engine. It was really nasty. All the smaller fuses were corroded so bad that there was NO PLASTIC LEFT!!! The larger fuses a few had to be pulled in many pieces. they just disentegrated as I touched them. I replaced all i could get out (and till my new mega-box of fuses was empty).

I tested all the fuses except for a couple on the bottom I couldn't get my little light up tester on.
Batteries are almost new. I doubt seriously they have anything to do with it, but I haven't checked them thoroughly, however I did charge both of them up with the charger.
Checked all 3 grounds to the batteries, and they look fine.
Cleaned engine (really oily)

Codes came up as computer (IDM) but everyone is telling me it's probably not the computer. And at $1000 for the IDM, plus installation, i'm hoping they are right!!!)

So I have sank so much money into this thing over the last 2 years that I'm at that point where a van payment don't look so bad anymore. I've only had it 2 years, and it has dollared me to death. I'm not sure how long I will stay in this profession, so I don't want to buy a new vehicle just yet.

I don't think it's worth $1000 for a computer for this van. Don't get me wrong, shes a beautiful vehicle, but as my old preacher used to say "Beauty is only skin deep, but sin is through and through!" and as a former beach vehicle, she's eat up with cancer! Any other things I can try???

I can't even FIND the dang computer!!! I can't find a picture of what it looks like either, so I don't know what I'm looking for!

Brake lights stay on ABS light on

Jeep1947 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:52:09 GMT

Brake lights stay on and ABS light came on today. Third brake light ok. Bad brake light switch, dirty RABS sensor, any ideas?