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		<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com - 6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</title>
		<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
		<description>Discussion of the 6.4L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2008 Super-Duty trucks. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.4L Power Stroke engine.</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:43:11 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com - 6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Best price on Stanadyne Performance Formula</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/best-price-stanadyne-performance-formula-242663/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:41:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Looking for the best price and best shipping on this product</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking for the best price and best shipping on this product</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>KingKong</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/best-price-stanadyne-performance-formula-242663/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Oil Leak Near the Oil Pan (See Photo)</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/oil-leak-near-oil-pan-see-photo-242562/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:23:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a slight oil leak near the oil pan. Is this normal? I am driving a 2009 Diesel, 4WD, manual tranny, and I have only put 7,000! miles on the truck.
* Is this normal?
* If not, is it covered by the warranty? I bought the truck new November of last year.
* Is there a Service Bulletin about this type of oil leak?
* What else should I talk to the Ford Diesel mechanic about?


Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3">I have a slight oil leak near the oil pan. Is this normal? I am driving a 2009 Diesel, 4WD, manual tranny, and I have only put 7,000! miles on the truck.</font></font><ul><li><font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3">Is this normal?</font></font></li>
<li><font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3">If not, is it covered by the warranty? I bought the truck new November of last year.</font></font></li>
<li><font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3">Is there a Service Bulletin about this type of oil leak?</font></font></li>
<li><font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3">What else should I talk to the Ford Diesel mechanic about?</font></font></li>
</ul><br />
<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3">Thanks</font></font></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>ringtb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/oil-leak-near-oil-pan-see-photo-242562/</guid>
		</item>
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			<title>Radiator replaced - Coolant level and trans fluid low</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/radiator-replaced-coolant-level-trans-fluid-low-242523/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:27:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I had my radiator replaced last week.  When I got home, I checked the coolant level and it was very low - hardly any in the reservoir.  So, I took it back to the dealer the next day to get more coolant added.  It has not fluctuated at all since it was brought up to the "cold fill" line - so that is good.

Last night when I was filling up with fuel, I checked my transmission fluid.  I had been driving for 45 minutes before this, so all the fluids were at their warm operating temperature.  The transmission fluid was reading in the (C)old hash marks - no fluid was on the (H)ot marks.

The radiator has provision for transmission cooling/heating, so when I got home I checked my receipt for the radiator replacement.  It simply said (1) Radiator and (3) Gallons of Coolant.  No transmission fluid was added to replace the transmission fluid that was lost during the radiator swap.  

Has anyone else had this issue?  Is this how Ford tells the techs to do it?

How many quarts of transmission fluid should I purchase to be able to fill this thing up?  I was thinking 2 quarts should cover it.  And does anyone know the exact part#/name of the transmission fluid that I need to get from Ford?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I had my radiator replaced last week.  When I got home, I checked the coolant level and it was very low - hardly any in the reservoir.  So, I took it back to the dealer the next day to get more coolant added.  It has not fluctuated at all since it was brought up to the &quot;cold fill&quot; line - so that is good.<br />
<br />
Last night when I was filling up with fuel, I checked my transmission fluid.  I had been driving for 45 minutes before this, so all the fluids were at their warm operating temperature.  The transmission fluid was reading in the (C)old hash marks - no fluid was on the (H)ot marks.<br />
<br />
The radiator has provision for transmission cooling/heating, so when I got home I checked my receipt for the radiator replacement.  It simply said (1) Radiator and (3) Gallons of Coolant.  No transmission fluid was added to replace the transmission fluid that was lost during the radiator swap.  <br />
<br />
Has anyone else had this issue?  Is this how Ford tells the techs to do it?<br />
<br />
How many quarts of transmission fluid should I purchase to be able to fill this thing up?  I was thinking 2 quarts should cover it.  And does anyone know the exact part#/name of the transmission fluid that I need to get from Ford?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>thw420</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/radiator-replaced-coolant-level-trans-fluid-low-242523/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>5R110 Auto reliability</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/5r110-auto-reliability-242502/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 04:28:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[How are you guys liking the new trans??  This may be the same model # trans but from what i understand it has been revamped for the new 6.4.  
I have been reading that is handles a fair amount 4-500hp w/o any problems so far.  

I'm thinking about a motor and trans swap and i'd like the extra gear of the 5R110.  PCS has a stand alone controller for this trans and destroked has adapters, therefore I was considering it.  
Motor wise, the mechanics @ the dealership told me to stick w/ the 7.3 so I might rebuild or drop in a cummins. Either way I'd love to use the 5R110 if it has become a solid tranny. 

Thanks in advance!
PL405:thumbsup:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How are you guys liking the new trans??  This may be the same model # trans but from what i understand it has been revamped for the new 6.4.  <br />
I have been reading that is handles a fair amount 4-500hp w/o any problems so far.  <br />
<br />
I'm thinking about a motor and trans swap and i'd like the extra gear of the 5R110.  PCS has a stand alone controller for this trans and destroked has adapters, therefore I was considering it.  <br />
Motor wise, the mechanics @ the dealership told me to stick w/ the 7.3 so I might rebuild or drop in a cummins. Either way I'd love to use the 5R110 if it has become a solid tranny. <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
PL405:thumbsup:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>powerlifter405</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/5r110-auto-reliability-242502/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Update on October Reflash</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/update-october-reflash-242458/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:07:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I said that I’d update the forum.

First of all, this is my first personal diesel engine and I’m no expert. So hopefully the great members of this forum will add their expertise if I’m not painting the correct picture. Saying that, I didn’t buy a F350 for its city MPG, I bought it to pull and it does that without breaking a sweat. I do love the truck, but it is the first vehicle I’ve owned, that I haven’t known down to the last bolt and if it wasn’t for the chance of voiding the warranty (and the wife won’t let me!), I’d have it running with a tuner the way I wanted it to run.

*Posted on this forum October 29th*
*I have had three flashes. I had a second flash done in the spring (May?) and did like the shifting better, and my in town mileage went down. On Oct 20th I brought my truck in for a stuck front calliper and they said that the engine took a new update, wife picked up the truck so I didn't get to talk to the Service Tech. I notice that the truck is shifting earlier and not smooth, but the in town mileage is up about 2 MPG. I'm leaving on a 1000 plus mile trip tomorrow and when I get back I will have a better idea, because I took the same trip last month and had kept the data. I don't know what version of update was done, but I hope I'm going to like this one, the last one Regened too much, bad turbo lag, ran with higher boost, but the shifting was smoother and the MPG was down.*

Well I’m back from my trip and went back to the Dealer because they didn’t correct anything and to get the paper work, so I could let you folks know what flash I got.

I asked the Service Manager for the paper work and it didn’t have any information which version of the update was done. He said that it just took a new update because they hooked up the laptop only because I complained about the last Flash in May and couldn’t tell me any more about it. My lack of people skill got the best of him I think.

The new flash is noticeable, when not in Tow Mode, it shifts up at 40 mph and 50 mph but it is not smooth, this I think is why I’m getting better MPG in city driving. Also the Regens are less frequent (Except when I burn B5, see below), but last longer. Yesterday I towed my 12000 pound trailer to storage and in tow mode it shifts smooth but any sooner, so I’m thinking that the shift pattern is the same.

I travelled 1638 miles not towing and I’d say that most of that was 80% highway with the cruise control at 65-70 mph. I used a total of 116.17 gallons (US) measured brim to brim. This averages out to 14 mpg (US) this trip, the trip a month ago I got 16 MPG and the same trip a year ago I averaged 17 MPG.

For my first leg of the trip I had fuelled up with 25 gal (US) BioDiesel (B5). There was a lot of stop and go road construction and a detour because of an accident. 30 Miles into the trip I had a Regen which I account for not having a Regen since the re-flash. And had two other Regens till my next fill up (Which I said to myself here we go, but could it be the B5?). All Regens lasted around 15 minutes. At 328 miles I filled the truck with 23 gals of fuel regular diesel fuel. After that the Regens didn’t happen as frequent, I say on average just over 400 highway miles where as before it would happen every 200 miles or less with the same driving. Once on this trip I drove 300 miles straight, highway, one Regen, Ford Cetane Additive, and got 16 mpg at 70 MPH, my best for the trip. 

So not to drag this on (sorry), here is my thoughts and I don’t know what I believe.

* The re-flash changed the shift patterns in non-tow mode and I think this is the reason I’m getting better MPG in the city, defiantly shifts up sooner,Regens less, but I was getting better highway MPG before May. It changed the Regen cycle to be longer and that’s why it is Regening less? And I’m not sure but the DIC MPG doesn’t seem to be accurate anymore with the hand calculations, I’ll have to do a few more calculations.



]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font color="black"><font face="Verdana">I said that I’d update the forum.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">First of all, this is my first personal diesel engine and I’m no expert. So hopefully the great members of this forum will add their expertise if I’m not painting the correct picture. Saying that, I didn’t buy a F350 for its city MPG, I bought it to pull and it does that without breaking a sweat. I do love the truck, but it is the first vehicle I’ve owned, that I haven’t known down to the last bolt and if it wasn’t for the chance of voiding the warranty (and the wife won’t let me!), I’d have it running with a tuner the way I wanted it to run.</font></font><br />
<br />
<b><font color="black"><font face="Verdana">Posted on this forum October 29th</font></font></b><br />
<b><font color="black"><font face="Verdana">I have had three flashes. I had a second flash done in the spring (May?) and did like the shifting better, and my in town mileage went down. On Oct 20th I brought my truck in for a stuck front calliper and they said that the engine took a new update, wife picked up the truck so I didn't get to talk to the Service Tech. I notice that the truck is shifting earlier and not smooth, but the in town mileage is up about 2 MPG. I'm leaving on a 1000 plus mile trip tomorrow and when I get back I will have a better idea, because I took the same trip last month and had kept the data. I don't know what version of update was done, but I hope I'm going to like this one, the last one Regened too much, bad turbo lag, ran with higher boost, but the shifting was smoother and the MPG was down.</font></font></b><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">Well I’m back from my trip and went back to the Dealer because they didn’t correct anything and to get the paper work, so I could let you folks know what flash I got.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">I asked the Service Manager for the paper work and it didn’t have any information which version of the update was done. He said that it just took a new update because they hooked up the laptop only because I complained about the last Flash in May and couldn’t tell me any more about it. My lack of people skill got the best of him I think.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">The new flash is noticeable, when not in Tow Mode, it shifts up at 40 mph and 50 mph but it is not smooth, this I think is why I’m getting better MPG in city driving. Also the Regens are less frequent (Except when I burn B5, see below), but last longer. Yesterday I towed my 12000 pound trailer to storage and in tow mode it shifts smooth but any sooner, so I’m thinking that the shift pattern is the same.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">I travelled 1638 miles not towing and I’d say that most of that was 80% highway with the cruise control at 65-70 mph. I used a total of 116.17 gallons (US) measured brim to brim. This averages out to 14 mpg (</font></font><font color="black"><font face="Verdana">US</font></font><font color="black"><font face="Verdana">) this trip, the trip a month ago I got 16 MPG and the same trip a year ago I averaged 17 MPG.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">For my first leg of the trip I had fuelled up with 25 gal (US) BioDiesel (B5). There was a lot of stop and go road construction and a detour because of an accident. 30 Miles into the trip I had a Regen which I account for not having a Regen since the re-flash. And had two other Regens till my next fill up (Which I said to myself here we go, but could it be the B5?). All Regens lasted around 15 minutes. At 328 miles I filled the truck with 23 gals of fuel regular diesel fuel. After that the Regens didn’t happen as frequent, I say on average just over 400 highway miles where as before it would happen every 200 miles or less with the same driving. Once on this trip I drove 300 miles straight, highway, one Regen, Ford Cetane Additive, and got 16 mpg at 70 MPH, my best for the trip. </font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">So not to drag this on (sorry), here is my thoughts and I don’t know what I believe.</font></font><br />
<ul><li><font face="Verdana">The re-flash changed the shift patterns in non-tow mode and I think this is the reason I’m getting better MPG in the city, defiantly shifts up sooner,Regens less, but I was getting better highway MPG before May. It changed the Regen cycle to be longer and that’s why it is Regening less? And I’m not sure but the DIC MPG doesn’t seem to be accurate anymore with the hand calculations, I’ll have to do a few more calculations.</font></li>
</ul><br />
<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>MPD56</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/update-october-reflash-242458/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>6.4 Reliability</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/6-4-reliability-242456/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:54:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Guys dont bash.  I own a 07 dodge ram quad cab cummins gets 18 mpg. But the rest of truck not up to snuff. Been looking at the deals on the 09 fords but dont really know much of the 6.4 diesel. Proformace wise i hope it will out proforme the cummins in stock settings. but i am a person that cant keep good enough along i will put the sparten on and clean the exhaust up a little but is the engine going to give me any trouble. or would i just be better off keeping the dodge and live with a uncomfortable loose streering, nickle dimeing me but runs good truck.
thanks please dont be baise lots of money involed</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Guys dont bash.  I own a 07 dodge ram quad cab cummins gets 18 mpg. But the rest of truck not up to snuff. Been looking at the deals on the 09 fords but dont really know much of the 6.4 diesel. Proformace wise i hope it will out proforme the cummins in stock settings. but i am a person that cant keep good enough along i will put the sparten on and clean the exhaust up a little but is the engine going to give me any trouble. or would i just be better off keeping the dodge and live with a uncomfortable loose streering, nickle dimeing me but runs good truck.<br />
thanks please dont be baise lots of money involed</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>RNX CTD</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/6-4-reliability-242456/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Tell me about the 6.4?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/tell-me-about-6-4-a-242444/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:56:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Need to get rid of my 6.0. I love the truck, just can't afford it. Over 8k in repairs in only 70k miles since purchase. 
 
Have the problems with the 6.0 been resolved in the 6.4? I don't like the thought of buying a truck from Government Motors and like the extra towing capacity but just don't want a repeat. Also - I can't justify the cost of a new truck so the new 6.7 coming out is not an option.  Any comments appreciated.
 
jk96]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Need to get rid of my 6.0. I love the truck, just can't afford it. Over 8k in repairs in only 70k miles since purchase. <br />
 <br />
Have the problems with the 6.0 been resolved in the 6.4? I don't like the thought of buying a truck from Government Motors and like the extra towing capacity but just don't want a repeat. Also - I can't justify the cost of a new truck so the new 6.7 coming out is not an option.  Any comments appreciated.<br />
 <br />
jk96</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>jk96</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/tell-me-about-6-4-a-242444/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help with Coolant Level</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/help-coolant-level-242438/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:09:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Can anyone tell me where your coolant level is on the coolant reservoir tank when the engine is cold (70 degrees).

My F350 Job3 was brought in May 2009 with 12,000 mile to have the radiator changed this is after I had brought it in 5 times over a year to get coolant added and finally told them that I know where to add coolant, and wanted to now know where it was going.  I brought it in the next morning and it took less then a day to change out.

Since then the coolant level has never been at the level it shows in the manual or at the marks that are embossed on the coolant reservoir. I put tape on the reservoir to mark the level to keep my eye on it; the coolant level hasn’t changed in six months.

I brought my truck in for 3 things and a stuck front calliper on October 20 (Which is still sticking) and mention that the coolant levels was low since May, but the truck hasn’t lost any coolant because I check regularly when the truck is cold (70 degrees). They went ahead and did a pressure test and said that I had no leaks! But the coolant level before I left the Dealer was still below the embossed cool marks.  I brought my truck back to the Dealer last week because none of the things were corrected. They checked the coolant level and didn’t add any, because the Service Manager said that if they add any more coolant it would blow out the top of the tank. If that was true, when I’m pulling a 12,000 pound trailer at 70 mph in 90 degree temperature why does my coolant level just reach the cold engine mark. Sorry about the length and rant, but I no longer have faith in my Dealer. Because of my lack of people skills, I always get hung up on the small stuff.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">Can anyone tell me where your coolant level is on the coolant reservoir tank when the engine is cold (70 degrees).</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">My F350 Job3 was brought in May 2009 with 12,000 mile to have the radiator changed this is after I had brought it in 5 times over a year to get coolant added and finally told them that I know where to add coolant, and wanted to now know where it was going.  I brought it in the next morning and it took less then a day to change out.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">Since then the coolant level has never been at the level it shows in the manual or at the marks that are embossed on the coolant reservoir. I put tape on the reservoir to mark the level to keep my eye on it; the coolant level hasn’t changed in six months.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">I brought my truck in for 3 things and a stuck front calliper on October 20 (Which is still sticking) and mention that the coolant levels was low since May, but the truck hasn’t lost any coolant because I check regularly when the truck is cold (70 degrees). They went ahead and did a pressure test and said that I had no leaks! But the coolant level before I left the Dealer was still below the embossed cool marks.  I brought my truck back to the Dealer last week because none of the things were corrected. They checked the coolant level and didn’t add any, because the Service Manager said that if they add any more coolant it would blow out the top of the tank. If that was true, when I’m pulling a 12,000 pound trailer at 70 mph in 90 degree temperature why does my coolant level just reach the cold engine mark. Sorry about the length and rant, but I no longer have faith in my Dealer. Because of my lack of people skills, I always get hung up on the small stuff.</font></font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>MPD56</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/help-coolant-level-242438/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Annoying clicking noise</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/annoying-clicking-noise-242380/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:14:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I posted earlier about an annoying "clicking" sound on my truck that occured while cruising at about 50 mph and up. At the time it seemed to be coming from forward of the cab and was engine RPM related. I wanted to try and figure out where this noise was coming from before I took it back to the dealer so I could point them in the correct direction. I beleive I found the problem. The "clicking" sound is coming from the manual 4x4 transfer case. I can stop the clicking by pulling slightly back on the 4x4 manual shift lever while going down the road. After I release the lever the "clicking" sound returns. I don't have any experience with transfer cases but I know a clicking or buzzing sound from manual transmissions was usually caused by a bearing or a "bump" on the slider where the fork contacted it. Anyone know if the fork, slider is the set up used on these manual transfer cases? Also as I go down the road and put my hand on the 4x4 manual shift lever I can feel a high freq. buzz. Will one of you guys with manual 4x4 let me know if yours is the same? Thanks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I posted earlier about an annoying &quot;clicking&quot; sound on my truck that occured while cruising at about 50 mph and up. At the time it seemed to be coming from forward of the cab and was engine RPM related. I wanted to try and figure out where this noise was coming from before I took it back to the dealer so I could point them in the correct direction. I beleive I found the problem. The &quot;clicking&quot; sound is coming from the manual 4x4 transfer case. I can stop the clicking by pulling slightly back on the 4x4 manual shift lever while going down the road. After I release the lever the &quot;clicking&quot; sound returns. I don't have any experience with transfer cases but I know a clicking or buzzing sound from manual transmissions was usually caused by a bearing or a &quot;bump&quot; on the slider where the fork contacted it. Anyone know if the fork, slider is the set up used on these manual transfer cases? Also as I go down the road and put my hand on the 4x4 manual shift lever I can feel a high freq. buzz. Will one of you guys with manual 4x4 let me know if yours is the same? Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>Pilot</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/annoying-clicking-noise-242380/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>ABS TCS Problems</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/abs-tcs-problems-242328/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:40:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have been experiencing a sudden shudder or perhaps what may be a slipping that results in my TCS going off. If not, I turn it off and problem usually stays away. Sometimes when this happen I get an ABS light and a slippery vehicle icon on the message display. I turn off the tcs and that usually but not always stops the problem from recurring. After a few minutes, perhaps as long as 10 to 15 minutes the ABS light goes out and all is fair until the next incident.
 
When I turn on the key I get a "check brakes" message for an instant which goes out. I took it in and they said no error codes and tried as much as they could to replicate the problem but could not. I took it home went on another trip pulling my fifth wheel, but the problem continues to recur sporadically.
 
Any thoughts?:sick:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have been experiencing a sudden shudder or perhaps what may be a slipping that results in my TCS going off. If not, I turn it off and problem usually stays away. Sometimes when this happen I get an ABS light and a slippery vehicle icon on the message display. I turn off the tcs and that usually but not always stops the problem from recurring. After a few minutes, perhaps as long as 10 to 15 minutes the ABS light goes out and all is fair until the next incident.<br />
 <br />
When I turn on the key I get a &quot;check brakes&quot; message for an instant which goes out. I took it in and they said no error codes and tried as much as they could to replicate the problem but could not. I took it home went on another trip pulling my fifth wheel, but the problem continues to recur sporadically.<br />
 <br />
Any thoughts?:sick:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>larryhutto</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/abs-tcs-problems-242328/</guid>
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			<title>P0088 Error Code</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/p0088-error-code-242320/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:51:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[2008 F350 6.4 with 120,000miles. Service engine light came on. Had dealer read codes and came back with "P0088 Fuel rail/System Pressure-Too High"
Service tech indicated probable high pressure fuel pump. If replacement required, cab has to come off. Could be $3000!!!! and no factory warranty. Has anybody seen this error code? Does it really indicate high pressure fuel pump failure? Truck is going back to garage to further investigate (they did not have time when I took it in first time) and wondering what else go trigger P088 code?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>2008 F350 6.4 with 120,000miles. Service engine light came on. Had dealer read codes and came back with &quot;P0088 Fuel rail/System Pressure-Too High&quot;<br />
Service tech indicated probable high pressure fuel pump. If replacement required, cab has to come off. Could be $3000!!!! and no factory warranty. Has anybody seen this error code? Does it really indicate high pressure fuel pump failure? Truck is going back to garage to further investigate (they did not have time when I took it in first time) and wondering what else go trigger P088 code?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>chuckyleb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/p0088-error-code-242320/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>08 F250 6.4 Turbo Noise and Grind/Vibration</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/08-f250-6-4-turbo-noise-grind-vibration-242171/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:50:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am new to this site but have found some great info when having issues in the past.  Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Heres my problem/issues:
 
Started getting a flutter or higher pitched tea kettle like sound when accelerating about 4 months ago.  Finally took to dealer when truck lost power and was spitting white smoke out.  They were able to duplicate the white smoke and ended up changing the EGR. Of course mine truck was built before OCt 2008 so they put the updated EGR w/o the liquid cooling feature on it.  Said couldnt duplicate the noise from turbo, intake, or exhaust. (I really have no clue what the noise is but I am pretty sure its either the turbo or something to do with the inatke system. This was done a month ago.
Took in last week cause when got back from shop had a grinding and shaking vibration when making left turns. Gets louder and more rugged when accelerate. Feels as if chassis is coming out from under truck. Took in and they drove it for 2 days and couldnt duplicate my complaint however I drove it for the tech and he did verify my vibration and what not during left turn.  Yet they didnt fix anything.  IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD POINT OUT TO THEM OR THAT I CAN CHECK MYSELF TO SEE WHERE ISSUE IS AT???  My truck is 2008 F250 CC SWB 4x4 20 inch stock rims/tires. Completely stock.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am new to this site but have found some great info when having issues in the past.  Any help is greatly appreciated!<br />
 <br />
Heres my problem/issues:<br />
 <br />
Started getting a flutter or higher pitched tea kettle like sound when accelerating about 4 months ago.  Finally took to dealer when truck lost power and was spitting white smoke out.  They were able to duplicate the white smoke and ended up changing the EGR. Of course mine truck was built before OCt 2008 so they put the updated EGR w/o the liquid cooling feature on it.  Said couldnt duplicate the noise from turbo, intake, or exhaust. (I really have no clue what the noise is but I am pretty sure its either the turbo or something to do with the inatke system. This was done a month ago.<br />
Took in last week cause when got back from shop had a grinding and shaking vibration when making left turns. Gets louder and more rugged when accelerate. Feels as if chassis is coming out from under truck. Took in and they drove it for 2 days and couldnt duplicate my complaint however I drove it for the tech and he did verify my vibration and what not during left turn.  Yet they didnt fix anything.  IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD POINT OUT TO THEM OR THAT I CAN CHECK MYSELF TO SEE WHERE ISSUE IS AT???  My truck is 2008 F250 CC SWB 4x4 20 inch stock rims/tires. Completely stock.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>RoosterF250</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/08-f250-6-4-turbo-noise-grind-vibration-242171/</guid>
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			<title>Days to replace radiator?</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/days-replace-radiator-242123/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:31:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I thought Job 3 trucks were safe from this problem, but I guess not....  One thing to note I had the venturi T from the factory not a recall fix.

For those of you that had the radiator replaced, how long does it take?  I am at 33,000 miles and mine has started leaking.  :nono:  So I am going to make the appointment to get it fixed.

Where mine is leaking is on the lower drivers side at the seam where the aluminum is crimped to the plastic end.  I just noticed it on Friday when I was getting ready to leave as I just loaded the truck with parts to go on a job.

Other notes on the leak is after I noticed it I wiped it clean and then drove it home and after 6 hours of the truck sitting - everything still dry.  This morning go out to look at it and crap a drip on the frame horn.  My thinking is when the radaitor is hot it's not leaking cause it is hot and expanded.  When it cools the leak opens up.

Have any of you gotten a loaner vehicle at no charge for this warranty repair?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I thought Job 3 trucks were safe from this problem, but I guess not....  One thing to note I had the venturi T from the factory not a recall fix.<br />
<br />
For those of you that had the radiator replaced, how long does it take?  I am at 33,000 miles and mine has started leaking.  :nono:  So I am going to make the appointment to get it fixed.<br />
<br />
Where mine is leaking is on the lower drivers side at the seam where the aluminum is crimped to the plastic end.  I just noticed it on Friday when I was getting ready to leave as I just loaded the truck with parts to go on a job.<br />
<br />
Other notes on the leak is after I noticed it I wiped it clean and then drove it home and after 6 hours of the truck sitting - everything still dry.  This morning go out to look at it and crap a drip on the frame horn.  My thinking is when the radaitor is hot it's not leaking cause it is hot and expanded.  When it cools the leak opens up.<br />
<br />
Have any of you gotten a loaner vehicle at no charge for this warranty repair?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>compman72</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/days-replace-radiator-242123/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>White smoke and loss of power</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/white-smoke-loss-power-242111/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 08:28:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My truck has been blowing white smoke and it happens out of the blue.  I cant pin-point a certain time it happens, it just happens and I took it to the dealer and they said nothing is wrong with it.  I get it back and it does it to me not long after picking it up.  I have 34K miles on it, I have changed the fuel filters and done the newest flash on it.  When it happens, it blows a lot of white smoke and it hesistates like a gas motor would be starving for fuel.  I was at a dealer in Louisiana a couple days ago and there was an identical truck in the shop like mine and they had the cab off... which means they were pulling the motor.  I talked to the mechanic working on it and he said the truck had a bent rod and it started off by blowing white smoke.  Has anyone else ever seen this?  He also said something about an EGR valve going bad causing this mysterious white smoke and loss of power.  Can anyone tell me if this is true or not.  I know this shop has repaired two 6.4 motors for bent rods as I saw the block of the first one sitting on the pallet ready to ship.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My truck has been blowing white smoke and it happens out of the blue.  I cant pin-point a certain time it happens, it just happens and I took it to the dealer and they said nothing is wrong with it.  I get it back and it does it to me not long after picking it up.  I have 34K miles on it, I have changed the fuel filters and done the newest flash on it.  When it happens, it blows a lot of white smoke and it hesistates like a gas motor would be starving for fuel.  I was at a dealer in Louisiana a couple days ago and there was an identical truck in the shop like mine and they had the cab off... which means they were pulling the motor.  I talked to the mechanic working on it and he said the truck had a bent rod and it started off by blowing white smoke.  Has anyone else ever seen this?  He also said something about an EGR valve going bad causing this mysterious white smoke and loss of power.  Can anyone tell me if this is true or not.  I know this shop has repaired two 6.4 motors for bent rods as I saw the block of the first one sitting on the pallet ready to ship.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>silversvo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/white-smoke-loss-power-242111/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Another smoke/regen question</title>
			<link>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/another-smoke-regen-question-242085/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:16:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am fully aware of the regen process that occurs on my truck and have delt with it since I've owned it.

This morning was a little different than other regens. It went into regen very shortly after first morning start-up, probably 2 miles down the road, truck not near full operational temperature. Approx. 29 degrees outside.

I get on the expressway and look behind me and only saw a massive white cloud of smoke. By sheer luck, my brother is going to work only on the opposite side of the freeway and sees me. He calls me and asked if the engine just blew or if I lost a radiator hose.

Anyway, the smoke screen lasted about a mile and cleared right up and the regen continued as normal.

I've had all the latest flashes done. 37k miles, job 3.

This just is scaring the crap out of me. 

Is the fact that it went into regen with a relatively cold engine and the cold outside temp. the cause for the excessive smoke?

Pretty darn embarrasing.

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am fully aware of the regen process that occurs on my truck and have delt with it since I've owned it.<br />
<br />
This morning was a little different than other regens. It went into regen very shortly after first morning start-up, probably 2 miles down the road, truck not near full operational temperature. Approx. 29 degrees outside.<br />
<br />
I get on the expressway and look behind me and only saw a massive white cloud of smoke. By sheer luck, my brother is going to work only on the opposite side of the freeway and sees me. He calls me and asked if the engine just blew or if I lost a radiator hose.<br />
<br />
Anyway, the smoke screen lasted about a mile and cleared right up and the regen continued as normal.<br />
<br />
I've had all the latest flashes done. 37k miles, job 3.<br />
<br />
This just is scaring the crap out of me. <br />
<br />
Is the fact that it went into regen with a relatively cold engine and the cold outside temp. the cause for the excessive smoke?<br />
<br />
Pretty darn embarrasing.<br />
<br />
Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f35/">6.4L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain</category>
			<dc:creator>sameolething</dc:creator>
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