Ford 650/750 Medium DutiesTechnical discussion of the new Ford Super Duty 650 and 750 series trucks with Power Stroke, Cummins, or Caterpillar engines.
ive been in mexico for a little over 5 months and my rv has not moved..run a few times but now she wont go even when i hit the e-start switch..the battries in there now are maintenace free..its a 2001 so they have been replaced before i got the rv but when i dont know..i can only get the batteries up to 12.4 volts after a week of charging them with my solar panel..was gonna go to costco and see if they carry what i need..all i need now is a part number..if anyone knows please reply!..thanks in advance!..
p.s. i had a pic and signature here but i guess its been deleted
i have a 2001 f-650 fourwinds funmover RV with a 225hp cummins/allison 6 speed with 65K miles
ill have a look tom fer that info but im wondering in the meantime if i put a big shop charger on it tommorow how long and how hard should i zap them for?,,these batteries look pretty generic and have an breather hole on the side but dont want to boild em to long ..they would start my rig up till a month ago..once i get it going i think all it needs is a good run and it will be good till i get home
If they're not so maintenance-free you can't pop the caps off take a look in there, if some cells are low no amount of charging will fix things. If you find some low you can top them off with distilled (or at least bottled) and give it a try. My last maintenance-free battery had removable caps for some reason
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
no caps to look in or test to see whats up..cheap batteries?..gonna zap em here soon with a shop charger..then put my solar panel on it and try starting it later this aft when the sun is strong
At 12.5vdc your batteries are only holding half of a full charge. I would think they'd fail a load test, take them to get load tested if possible. I would get 2 new ones before your stranded.
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99 F250 XLT,4x4,SC,SB,A/T,PMT1,White/Silver w/silver ARE LSII tonneau,MB Razor's,295-60-20 Nitto trail grapplers,Rhino Liner,Rancho9000's,Bushwacker Street Flares,DP Tuner,True-Cool Max,AFE modified-W.D.RamAir,5"Hypermax exhaust,Hypermax DP,Firestone Ride-Rites,2.5" front leveling leafs,AutoMeter-ProComps/triple pillar,heated TTT mirrors,DEI remote start,Amsoil enhanced.
At 12.5vdc your batteries are only holding half of a full charge.
Not if they are 12V batteries. May have a dead cell and I agree they might fail a load test. If there are two batteries and they are connected (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) you will only get 12 VDC...They have to be connected (+) to (-) to get 24 VDC.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
there is 2 batteries hooked up parallel..like the 2 rv batteries (good sun) that helped get her going this aft.. used jumper cables instead of the e-start switch..lettin her run for an hour and will check tonight what the voltage is..thx in the meantime!
At 12.5vdc your batteries are only holding half of a full charge.
That's about an 80% charge; 12.0V is full discharge and 12.6V is full charge.
Problem is in assuming the voltage test was done correctly. Has to be charged, then the surface charge removed, then permitted to sit and the charge to equalize across the plates, then the test performed. Battery must be tested alone; as it is you're testing six cells at once!
Maintenance-free means a battery on which they don't give you caps, but sometimes they do anyway. Sorry they didn't.
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1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
i ran the truck for an hour earlier and now sitting for 5 hours i get 12.5..slight improvement..ill do the same tommorow untill i leave baja in 2 weeks..now i know i can jump them off the rv batteries i think ill be good to go
As long as you keep the RV batteries up to snuff, you can jump start the engine. So does your RV have seperate batteries for the living quarters and the engine? Like 4 total, two each on different circuits. And then when your driving can you charge them all at the same time?
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
yes i have 2 Rv batts beside the main truck batteries so its all in one compartment on two separate curcuits..thats how i have an estart if i need to in the cab hit a button and the Rv batts can boost as well ..but it does not work as well as battry cables as i have found out..Rv batts are charged by the generator, solar and when driving..ill let you all know how i made out when i get home! thx!
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