I haven't gotten into it yet, maybe tomorrow, but I think my van has rear brake problems. The passenger side overheated recently exceeding 160 degrees while the other 3 were only ~106. There's also black residue all over the outside of the wheel; maybe a stuck piston. While under it, installing an AirDog, I noticed clear, oily fluid drops on the inside bottom of the driver's side rotor. I'm going to jack it up and check everything, but I'm leaning towards new calipers and wheel cylinders. I watched a couple of videos on rebuilding calipers and think I'd like to try it. Can anyone offer advice on that project? Also, on Rock Auto, the rebuild kits are for 2 piston calipers; I haven't looked, but thought our Super Duty's had 4 pistons. Anyone care to comment?
The van has ~145,000 miles and except for pads, all the brake equipment is original. At that mileage, is turning the rotors worth it, or are new one's recommended?
I had a piston stick in one of the rear calipers. Put so much heat into the rotor/hub that the axle grease seal melted enough to let axle lube leak out.
The only way I discovered the stuck piston was the axle lube on the tire!
Check to make sure your parking brakes are working ok Clev. Pull the rotor and have a looksy. The lever that actuated the shoes can get frozen. It is hinged so it first pushes out the leading shoe. Once the leading shoe hits the drum it then hinges pushing out the trailing shoe.
I notice you live in the great state of Texas and you guys don't have the corrosion issues to the degree we do but that lever can lick up on you from limited or no use. Also he bottom spring can rot off. These things can case havoc. This can cause tremendous heat that can fry piston seals. Look for signs of heat like burnt paint and rust.
I would not hassle with rebuilding calipers Clev. I would put some new ones one.
This is a picture of a lever frozen up. You will notice the leading shoe sticking out. This truck had a new leaking caliper on it. They thought it was the caliper hanging up without digging deeper. It ABSOLUTLY roasted the caliper. You can also see how it started to delaminate the lining.
I don't use them. Not needed IMO, even towing a 12,000 lb fiver. Driving style is important. I don't "rabbit" start or stop when I have 18-19k pounds of rolling brick.
Some may argue slotted will be better, but I say properly adjusted trailer brakes negate that need. In a panic stop your mashing everything so the rotors probably aren't spinning fast enough to dissipate any heat.
Just my opinion based on towing a fiver since 1989.
Thanks chuck. Like you, the primary use 'was' towing a 10k pound TT; now it's just used for a weekend camping trip, and quick trip to the store. So, OEM's sound good.
I like the Napa coated model. Mechanic friend ( foreign gas ) bought a 6.7 and sold his V10 350. He gave me a new set for his truck he never put on. They were Powerstops and without a doubt the best stopping power pads I've had in my truck.
Where have you been Chuckster? Have not seen you lately? Hope all is well Homefry.
Hey Nick, been busy as a bee in spring. Business is booming at the RV dealership.
I don't use much Napa stuff as it's the most expensive and not always the best. Can't say I've had much luck with the coated rotors, been real happy and my customers have been real happy with Wagner and brake best.
Hmhft
Or however you spell that sound.
Busy too
So what's the deal man,,, everybody buying RVs cause they are scared about either presidential election? You know, Preppers.lol
Regular rotor dipped in what appears to be anti seize and maybe a wax of some type. It keeps the rust from getting on the hub and in the cooling passages that clog up with rust.
Nick, If you're expecting an immediate reply, you can hit the refresh button on your browser to reload the page. On Firefox, it looks like an arrow curled in a circle. Otherwise you won't see new stuff.
On the rotors, if you slot one, you're taking away friction area, which is what stops you. More area means more stopping power. That's the reason bigger trucks have larger diameter rotors or bigger drums. OEM rotors are the way to go, IMO. When I replaced my rear brakes, I went with Ford rotors.
Good afternoon, all. I've finally gotten into this job and have the following problems. On the passenger side, the caliper was stuck and that has scarred the rotor pretty badly. So, new caliper, rotor, and pads for this side. Due to the heat build up from the stuck brakes, I'm going to remove the hub assembley and check bearings and seal.
On the driver's side, oil was leaking down the rotor on the back side. I have totally disassembled it and see no problems; the rear seal is good. The only place it can leak is at the seal; right? Anyway, due to age, I'm doing caliper, rotor, and pads on this side, too, as well as bearings and seals.
If I've missed something or if you have advice to offer, any help will be appreciated.
Hi Clev, make sure the surface on the spindle is ok. You will rust on the back most just don't want to see rings cut in or anything.
You will need a socket four prong with centering post, a torque wrench.
When pulling that seal, lay something across the hub so you have something to pry against to pull the seal.
You will want the correct OTC race/ seal driver for the inner bearing race. The outer is 81mm. After seating cups verify seating by trying to squeeze a feeler gauge between the iron ledge and bearing race. If you can, reset them.
Pack bearings with ford spec moly grease. Squirt in about an ounce of diff fluid before inserting outer bearing. Torque to 60 back off 7 clicks.
Finally getting this rear end wrapped up; both sides, new oil seals, bearings, pads, rotors, and calipers. Also replaced the left and right (rear) brake hoses, and have a new hose for the center.????????Can/will someone please tell me where the center hose is located??? I know what you're thinking; it's in the center. But, I need a little more direction, please.
Stock, I popped the diff cover and all was ok. Replacing the driver's side brake hose included the axle vent, and it's clear. Thanks for the heads up; otherwise, I wouldn't have known what it was.
Still like to receive input on the 'center' brake hose. I've finished replacing everything, including the left and right caliper hoses, but cannot locate a center hose; it looks a little like the driver's side caliper hose assembly. The part is "ACDelco 18J1225 Professional Rear Center Hydraulic Brake Hose Assembly". Anyway, the brakes are a little spongy and the pedal travels too far, so I'm re-bleeding the rear again. Like to get that hose replaced.
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