I assume i just shut the truck off, and pump my brakes to get them 'hard', then start the bleeding process, one wheel at a time? I was reading about air in the ABS controller...how can you check to see if thats the case?
I'm confused. You do not pump the brakes to get them hard, then bleed. If you're doing it manually, have an assistant in the cab with his/her foot over the brake pedal. Position yourself at the right rear caliper. Have the assistant depress the pedal and hold it as you unscrew the bleeder no more than 1/2 turn. Close the bleeder and instruct your assistant to release the pedal Repeat until you see clean fluid with no air bubbles. Move to the left rear, then right front and finally the left front.
You should have a piece of clear plastic tubing over the nipple on the bleeder emptying into a container. I use a clear 16 oz. plastic soda bottle and drill a hole in the cap for the tube.
Remember: Open the bleeder only when the brake pedal is being pushed down, hold the pedal down, close the valve and release the pedal. IF YOU OPEN THE BLEEDERS MORE THAN 1/2 TURN, AIR MAY ENTER AROUND THE THREADS AND BE FORCED INTO THE DRAIN TUBE. You will think it's coming from inside your brake lines and continue to bleed to get the bubbles out for ever.
Remember: Keep topping up the brake fluid as you bleed.
I use a Motive Products Power Bleeder. It looks like a 1/2 gallon bug sprayer with a brake fluid reservoir cap on te end of the hose line instead of a spray wand. You fill the bleeder with fresh fluid and connect to your brake system by replacing the reservoir cap with the Power Bleeder's cap. Then you pump up the Power Bleeder to about 15 psi using the built in hand pump and pressure guage.
Now, all you have to do is unscrew the bleeder screws at each caliper and let the old fluid drain into your collection bottle. The Power Bleeder forces new fluid into the reservoir when you unscrew the bleeder screw. No brake pumping, no assistant, no problems.
Just keep track of how much fluid you bleed out of the system so the Power Bleeder doesn't run dry and don't open the bleeder screws more than 1/2 turn.
I paid $69 for my Power Bleeder and can do the brakes on my '05 Superduty in 30 minutes. Different adapters let me use the Power Bleeder on different cars.
2005 F250 4X4 SD R/C Power Stroke / Torqshift
Oxford White, Medium Flint 40/20/40 Vinyl, Prefered Equip. Pkg. 600A , 3.73, Limited Slip, XL Decor Pkg., Jeweled Headlamps, Chrome Rear Step Bumper, 9600# GVWR Pkg., Engine Block Heater, Sliding Rear Window, Speed Control / Tilt Wheel, Camper Pkg., FX4 Pkg., Air Conditioning, Forged Aluminum Wheels-17", Tow Command, Telescoping TT Mirrors. Using this vehicle to produce an ambulance voids Ford warranty. Added: Ford factory upfitter switches, Go Industries Rancher Grill Guard (hammered powdercoat), Hella 4000 Rallye lighting (two Euro Beams), SnugTop Super Sport camper shell, Jotto Desk & Escort Redline Radar/Lidar Detector.