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Old 12-11-2012, 04:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I was thinking about just taking it to the dealership and getting it over and done with... but I can't bring myself to over pay by $100 or more.
Do you have a link to the site the MC you rexommend is ate

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Old 12-11-2012, 05:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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www.rockauto.com

Click on your year, make, model, engine and then on brakes, then on master cylinder. Or, click on part number and put the number I listed above.


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Old 12-11-2012, 05:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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And which would you recommend? I'm new to the whole gearhead thing.
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'd get the Raybestos


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"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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From my searches the OE master for your application is no longer available, only the Motorcraft version which my dealer sells for $130. The price quoted to you is for the OE at full price.

$125 - $150 is a price I would pay for a quality M/C.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:57 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I'm gonna go with the OEM part from Tousley Ford:

2002 FORD F-350 SUPER DUTY Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot

I will feel more comfortable purchasing an OEM part rather than an aftermarket part from what FMTRVT was saying.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You chose well young Padawan.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:15 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The only problem with that logic is Motorcraft just makes expensive boxes. I wonder who the OEM manufacturer is for the master cylinder.

As an example, you can by a Motorcraft waterpump for the 7.3 for $350 or you can buy an Airtex for $75. Its the same exact pump - Motorcraft just has a slight "markup" on the part.

So, Jack - who makes the Motorcraft master cylinder?
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"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:21 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thank you, sir!
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:25 AM   #25 (permalink)
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RT, not that simple. Not sure who is supplying the Superduty M/C to Motorcraft right now but it may be the OE supplier. Jartin will have to look closely at the two units to see if the body and reservoir is exactly the same castings/molds.

Ford has the tightest internal spec's for it's Motorcraft "aftermarket" line. The company I worked for as you may know supplied both OE and aftermarket, both private label and under their own trade-names. What we made for our own trade-name did not qualify to Ford's internal standards so all the parts going through the Motorcraft channel had to be upgraded. Parts going to another big three aftermarket channel did not.

Ford's spec are tighter for manufacturing tolerances and they look closely at warranty returns. Even within this aftermarket version, if your problem rate is high you are going to have to go through the process of showing them why, how you are correcting it, and proving that it is corrected. Advance, Autozone, O'Rileys, NAPA, etc doesn't have you do that, and you could not at the price points they demand.

Twenty years ago you could buy a M/C for $50. Considering the devaluation of the dollar and price increases on everything else including raw materials, how is a company able to sell an item for that same price today at the same quality level?

I think over the last year or two I've participated in a half dozen threads on different forums where someone has gone out and bought a $50-60 M/C and had the pedal sink to to the floor after many attempts at bleeding. One even went and got a second M/C from the same source with the same result. They spent days trying to resolve this serious safety issue and in the end buying a Ford/Motorcraft replacement solved the issue. For years I have not commented much on M/C sourcing, but considering the trend I have seen during this time frame I hate to see people throw time and money at a part that may give them grief. Especially when we have a newer person who has not done that much mechanically. Now lets hope I didn't jinx him with what I've been saying.

Another trend that is lately showing up is with rebuilt calipers failing due to the pistons sticking in the bore, most likely due to poor quality phenolic pistons that are being sourced from newly established companies supplying the aftermarket bebuilders. Not as much as the M/Cs, but the trend has only been going on for the last 6-9 months.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:20 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Well - I trust your judgement, but I'm still not sure I'd pay 4 times the price for a part when I could get one from a well known, well respected company like Wagner or Raybestos.
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"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:00 AM   #27 (permalink)
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ding ding ding ' lightbulb '

's better idea , of course .
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:13 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Seems sort of "funny" to me! Guy comes onsite to get advice on a serious problem, an acknowledged EXPERT gives advice - someone else says "naw don't do that"

What am I missing? Guess who I would go with ?

bbt
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:51 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekair View Post
Seems sort of "funny" to me! Guy comes onsite to get advice on a serious problem, an acknowledged EXPERT gives advice - someone else says "naw don't do that"

What am I missing? Guess who I would go with ?

bbt
I'm very pleased you are so easily amused. I scanned the thread and didn't see anyone say, "naw don't do that". I did see an intelligent discourse between an acknowledged expert and an experienced, college trained professional. Jack wan't upset by the questions - I can't see why anyone else would be.
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"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:06 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I agree with RT. These discussions teach the most when it comes to different angles and solutions to various problems we have with our trucks. It seems every time I need to replace a part, I wrestle with the "OEM vs. aftermarket" issue. Any knowledge I can gain from other discussions concerning this helps me make more informed decisions.
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