I was thinking about just taking it to the dealership and getting it over and done with... but I can't bring myself to over pay by $100 or more.
Do you have a link to the site the MC you rexommend is ate
Sent from my GT-I9100 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
2002 F-350 Lariat
Crew Cab, Short Box
6637 Filter Kit, Exhaust chopped off at muffler
226,000 miles as of May 2013
RT, not that simple. Not sure who is supplying the Superduty M/C to Motorcraft right now but it may be the OE supplier. Jartin will have to look closely at the two units to see if the body and reservoir is exactly the same castings/molds.
Ford has the tightest internal spec's for it's Motorcraft "aftermarket" line. The company I worked for as you may know supplied both OE and aftermarket, both private label and under their own trade-names. What we made for our own trade-name did not qualify to Ford's internal standards so all the parts going through the Motorcraft channel had to be upgraded. Parts going to another big three aftermarket channel did not.
Ford's spec are tighter for manufacturing tolerances and they look closely at warranty returns. Even within this aftermarket version, if your problem rate is high you are going to have to go through the process of showing them why, how you are correcting it, and proving that it is corrected. Advance, Autozone, O'Rileys, NAPA, etc doesn't have you do that, and you could not at the price points they demand.
Twenty years ago you could buy a M/C for $50. Considering the devaluation of the dollar and price increases on everything else including raw materials, how is a company able to sell an item for that same price today at the same quality level?
I think over the last year or two I've participated in a half dozen threads on different forums where someone has gone out and bought a $50-60 M/C and had the pedal sink to to the floor after many attempts at bleeding. One even went and got a second M/C from the same source with the same result. They spent days trying to resolve this serious safety issue and in the end buying a Ford/Motorcraft replacement solved the issue. For years I have not commented much on M/C sourcing, but considering the trend I have seen during this time frame I hate to see people throw time and money at a part that may give them grief. Especially when we have a newer person who has not done that much mechanically. Now lets hope I didn't jinx him with what I've been saying.
Another trend that is lately showing up is with rebuilt calipers failing due to the pistons sticking in the bore, most likely due to poor quality phenolic pistons that are being sourced from newly established companies supplying the aftermarket bebuilders. Not as much as the M/Cs, but the trend has only been going on for the last 6-9 months.
Former Vehicle Test Manager - Friction Products
03 F350SC 4x4 6.0 Auto 5/30/03
Truck Pictorials on Facebook. Google - Facebook TooManyToys
2000 F250 PSD 7.3 CCLB A/T wrecked by red light runner 2/16/13 & still not fixed ... but its looking like the good hands are gona give it a shot . still cant believe there putting a new frame under it . it looks like a bomb went off in that body shop . theres truck pieces parts everywhere . . .
Seems sort of "funny" to me! Guy comes onsite to get advice on a serious problem, an acknowledged EXPERT gives advice - someone else says "naw don't do that"
What am I missing? Guess who I would go with ?
I'm very pleased you are so easily amused. I scanned the thread and didn't see anyone say, "naw don't do that". I did see an intelligent discourse between an acknowledged expert and an experienced, college trained professional. Jack wan't upset by the questions - I can't see why anyone else would be.
2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
I agree with RT. These discussions teach the most when it comes to different angles and solutions to various problems we have with our trucks. It seems every time I need to replace a part, I wrestle with the "OEM vs. aftermarket" issue. Any knowledge I can gain from other discussions concerning this helps me make more informed decisions.
2001 F-250 4X4 CC SB 7.3 4R100 3.73, BFGoodrich All-Terrain TA/KO, Motorcraft filters, Mile Marker manual hub locks w/ESOF (No hub "floating"), AIH delete, Rust-Oleum bed coating, Silverstar Ultra headlamps w/ clear headlight assemblies, 5,000K LED interior lamps; Moog greaseable u-joints, ball-joints, front hub assemblies; retractable bed hitch, original black CPS (BEST "mod" I have), Energy Suspension bushings, Red Heavy Duty ELC, Edge Evolution 15001 (for gauges), Walker BTM, Donaldson AIS
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.