replacing ball joints on 2005 F-250, have seal question

[sgivens]

I haven't seen a write up specifically for the '05. But based on the write ups I've seen for earlier model years, the only seal that seems to be required to be replaced is the large outer one that is pressed on the outer u-joint shaft.

I haven't torn anything apart yet, so I don't know what shape things are in (other than the ball joints being bad, will replace with Moog).

I'm trying to discern what other seals should be replaced, i.e. "it's a good idea to replace this one because it's been disturbed", vs "don't waste your money replacing this seal, it's ok to re-use" kinda thing.

So, here's what I've got so far:

5C3Z*3254*A (pressed on outer seal) REPLACE
2C3Z*3254*AA (inner dust seal?) keep or replace?
5C3Z*4A322*AA (yellow steering knuckle oring) keep or replace?
5C3Z*1K106*AB (seak kit for hub lock) keep or replace?
(am I missing anything?)

Thoughts? I'm a "do it right the first time" kinda guy, but didn't want to waste money on parts that truly can be reused.

[chuckster57]

Inner dust seal- look at it, if it's split like my buddies was then replace it.

O rings, cheap and easy insurance to assure you don't lose your vacuum next time you use your ESOF.

U- joints. Best replaced by a shop. If you do them yourself, be sure to use something between the "ears" when you apply pressure on the cups.

Big seal- has to be done at the shop IMHO. Took my buddies to the local dealer and they showed special tool and 4 lb sledge used to install.


Answered on my iPhone.

[noneck]

I've successfully replaced both sides of my truck over the past 2 years... Used the following procedure and home built seal driver as described.
Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com

[chuckster57]

We made pretty much the exact same "tool" for the seal, but I guess my 2 Lb. sledge didn't get the job done.


Answered on my iPhone.

[noneck]

Right, don't remember if its described or not but I made an extra effort to "clean" all traces of prior seal material from the axle seat before driving the new one on... It did require some pretty intense 2lb short handle sledge strikes.

[chuckster57]

We even lubed the surfaces with petroleum jelly. Took them in an 1/2 hr later and $40.00 we were good.


Answered on my iPhone.

[pwesseler]

Originally Posted by noneck

I've successfully replaced both sides of my truck over the past 2 years... Used the following procedure and home built seal driver as described.
Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com

I'm always a fan of these style write-ups. I'm going to be replacing front U-joints on my friends F350 in the next week or so. I plan to follow most of this procedure... minus the part where he uses a TORQUE WRENCH to loosen bolts.

[Arcticfury]

Originally Posted by pwesseler

I'm always a fan of these style write-ups. I'm going to be replacing front U-joints on my friends F350 in the next week or so. I plan to follow most of this procedure... minus the part where he uses a TORQUE WRENCH to loosen bolts.

Let me know how that works out for you. I will be doing my 04 F-350 in a few weeks. Thanks

[MisterCMK]

The seal driver for the 05+ trucks is different than the 99-04 trucks.

[sgivens]

Just wanted to close out this thread from my original question. I ended up replacing all seals that I disturbed (some you physically have to because of destruction from removal). Figured the cost of a new seal was worth more than having to pull stuff back apart again.

I captured the details here.