Anybody else's X do this? - Diesel Forum

AllAboutJeeps · 03-11-2005, 04:59 PM

Hey guys.

My '01 X has 90k miles on it now, and I am thinking about having the local dealer look at something before the warranty is out. I have asked a question similar to this in the past, but I wanted to reverify before dropping the cash to have it looked at.

When I start my X on cold days, I have little to no pedal response right after it starts up. I can push the accelerator to the floor, and the RPMs may come up a little, but not much. If I put it in gear, and floor it, it may just barely crawl, or not move at all. Here are some bullet points that I will relay to the service manager (even though they probably wont write any of it down):

- I am not talking frigid cold, call it below 40 or 35 degrees. I would call this behavior normal with temps in the low teens and below, but not @ 40 deg.

- If I plug it in for 3 hours before starting it does not do it. I haven't experimented with different plug in lenghts.

- I am running Rotella 15w-40 currently, but it did it when I was running a lighter weight Rotella also (can't remember the exact viscosity).

- It is an X, so of course it is an automatic.

- I usually experience mild romp (two or three romps) when starting in these temps w/o plugging it in.

- It doesn't exhibit this behavior on a warm restart.

- The automatic idle advance (forgot the fancy name) comes on just fine and doesn't seem to have any problems raising the RPMs higher than I can with the accelerator.

- If I wait for the idle advance to kick in, then tap the brake to get it to kick off, and floor it, the RPMs still don't come up.

- I don't know if any error codes have been logged, but I haven't seen any idiot lights flashing at me.

- I believe my Glow Plug Module to be working as I took my meter and verified that both connectors to Glow Plug Module were receiving power from the battery and also the signal wire telling them to turn on. I also checked the resistance of each GP and they seemed dead on. I also believe this system to be working b/c the dome light and dash mounted voltmeter increase after a little while which I attribute to the GPs going off.

So my question is:

1. Does your X or PSD exhibit any of these symptoms?

2. Any idea what I could check on my own without having to take it to the dealer?

3. Does the engine controller limit RPMs until certain engine conditions are met?

4. Should I take this into the dealer and have it checked or just write it off as normal diesel behavior and live with it, and tell the wife she must also!

I know it is good to let her warm up a little bit, but I when it is 30deg or so out, it should be necessary. Also, sometimes you are just in a hurry and want to go, and it really sucks when you push the throttle and get nothing! Additionally, all responses, even if it is, "Mine doesn't do that under those conditiions" would be greatly appreciated as proof for the dealer that it isn't normal. Thanks all.

...danny

Dentman · 03-11-2005, 05:18 PM

Sorry to say that mine does the exact same thing and always has. If I let it idle for two or three minutes (five - six is better) it runs OK and warms up fairly quickly. Bottom line is it's very sluggish when cold.

krshultz · 03-11-2005, 06:07 PM

Mine's a slug from a standstill on cold morning too.

BigCat · 03-12-2005, 12:50 AM

I live on a hill if I try to go up hill right away I have to give it at least half throttle and wait a second or two befor she will gradualy start to make progress up the hill. I wonder if it has comething to do with line pressure on the tranny. When she is hot I don't have this problem. Also I live here in the Bay Area so its never really cold. I have a 01 with 55k on it.

AllAboutJeeps · 03-14-2005, 10:20 AM

Thanks for the replies guys! Looks like my money will be better spent on a remote starter than having the dealer tell me it is normal. Thanks for taking the time to read the long post.

...danny

FamilyRide · 03-14-2005, 12:51 PM

A diesel's a diesel's a diesel. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] Cold fuel and a cold motor do not burn fuel very well. Even a remote start won't eliminate it, just helps it warm up quicker when you get going.

Ever notice some road tractors that start up first thing in the morning and take off? Blowing white smoke (unburned fuel) like crazy, until it warms up. An additive like Stanadyne will help if burn a little better but it still needs heat to fully burn.

AllAboutJeeps · 03-14-2005, 06:08 PM

[ QUOTE ]
A diesel's a diesel's a diesel. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

I thought that also, but on my '00 F250, I never remember not being able to get her to rev at these temps. That is what got me concerned. I can't imagine that much changing from '00 to '01 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] .

...danny

AllAboutJeeps · 03-15-2005, 10:52 AM

[ QUOTE ]
I thought that also, but on my '00 F250, I never remember not being able to get her to rev at these temps. That is what got me concerned. I can't imagine that much changing from '00 to '01 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] .

[/ QUOTE ]

I was thinking about this some more. My '00 F250 was a ZF6, the X is obviously an Auto. I wonder if the cold auto-transmission is the culprit? Maybe the computer is trying to limit the amount of slip in the tranny induced by cold ATF? Of course that doesn't exlpain why it won't let me rev the engine just idling in Park, but it is a thought. Does anyone know if the computer has the ability to read the transmission temperature? How about auto transmission slip? Just a thought.

...danny

rock_doctor · 03-15-2005, 11:18 AM

It is built into the computer to let it warm up a little and build oil pressure. Remember the turbo is sitting outside the engine and is supplied oil though a tube so it takes a few seconds to get it well lubricated and to give it a chance to warm up. People who run turbines actually have to supply low-pressure steam to the turbine (called a heat soak) to warm up the parts before they can really get them spinning if they do not they will break, the turbo is the same. You have to give it a chance to oil and warm up a little before you apply high heat to it. Just let it idle for a couple minutes and then go on your way.

mark

cardiac · 03-15-2005, 12:31 PM

Reach under the turbo and unplug the bail wire connector and it will run just fine but don't over rev it.
PS: I used a long screw driver to do it.

XtremExcursion01 · 03-15-2005, 02:41 PM

Sounds just like my 01 X. It's a safety feature to keep cold parts from getting hurt. I'm glad that feature is there. I have a boost guage on my truck and while the truck is warming up, there is Zero boost pressure. Once it warms up to a safe temp., she comes alive.