brake rotors

[xelerator]

How are the ART rotors and pads holding up? Any other options out there these days.i am thinking about changing my oems out. My oem were replced under warranty a few times thats why I still have them. Just getting ready to roll 85,000 on my 2000.

[Mark Craig]

xelerator,

Go here and read thru this and call us if we can help:

http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbt...31&fpart=1

Mark @ DPPI

[Graupp]

My vote is for Performance Friction rotors and pads

You can get them from Tom Haus @ Carolina Clutch, a sponsor here on TDS....it's pricey @ $600+ install...but worth every penny I assure you...

My wife wouldn't even drive the X because of the shaking and vibrations from the front brakes.....

Everything is fine NOW [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[MotionMan]

Well, theres your problem...85,000 on a 2000 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] I have 104,000 on an 03, you just arn't driving it enough and it is just sitting there and rotting [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] I replaced mine at 70k with NAPAs and smooth and quiet pads, I have never warped mine, and that is towing 10,000lbs. The trick is to not stomp on them, just ease into them and let up every so often, not pump them but just let off. I don't just put my brakes on and leave them on till I stop, this heats them up and causes problems, I brake early and lightly, letting off so they can cool. Now I have had to stomp on them but not often and when I do I still try and let up to keep them cool. Those frozen rotors and other hardened are supposed to be good but they can still warp if treated wrong, then you have a very expensive and heavy frisbie [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I would not use OEM but my NAPAs have 34k and still are as smooth as when new.

[Graupp]

Currently have got about 122K on my rig...

Tow a 32' TT, W/ GVCW of nearly 20'000#'s...

You don't stop this much weight by being kind to your brakes....

I tried several times to have the stealership "fix" the brakes...

Coming down out of Asheville on I-26, going into S.C. there's a 7/percent grade for about 3 miles...

[There's also one on I-40 east of Asheville, and another on I-26 North of Asheville]

Anyway, hitting the brakes cuz tranny won't hold it back entirely, nearly caused the steering wheel to jump out of my hand....
My DW was screaming at me to get the brakes fixed, cuz she wouldn't ride with me any more [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]

With my BTS tranny, and Performance Friction brakes, everything is FINE NOW [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]

I think people forget how big a truck this Excursion really is....
Just sitting there, it's 4 ton +,

As in the game of poker....."IF YOU WANT TO PLAY THE GAME, YOU GOTTA ANTI-UP"""

[Bruce1954]

I know exactly what you are talking about, I live in Asheville

I had the ART system on my 02 with the performance friction pads only regret was I fooled with all some other solutions first.

My 05 is starting to have problems at 25K, just as expected, no fooling around this time. Just pay the 800 for the ART sytem and be done wiht it!

[floridaX]

So, there is no hope for a ford rotor? Mine started shaking at about 15K and had them turned at 24K.

E.

[Ken1]

I have over 100K on ART's brakes still operating great

[Graupp]

Depends what your doing....

If your just driving around town, I don't think you'd need them..

BUT, if you going to have the big mule do what it was supposedly designed to do, then I think you'll have to anti-up

As far as the "ART" rotors are concerned!!!!

I worked in industry, with heat treating and cryogenic treatments, etc,,,etc,,,etc...

I'M SORRY, BUT I DON'T THINK THE CROGENIC TREATMENTS, IN THEM SELVES, MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE TO THE ROTORS, AFTER YOU HAVE AGAIN RAISED THE TEMPERATURE BACK PAST "CRITICAL"....