The dealer tried to screw me!Do you have any brake pad recommendations for my X? - Diesel Forum

JOE_M · 10-14-2004, 04:01 PM

I need to cut the fr.rotors due to a slight shimmy at highway speeds.The dealer stated that it needed pads and rotors at $660.I almost passed out and told them to give me the truck back.With 31,000 I couldn't see me needing rotors unless I had a frozen caliper or something.

When I got home I took of the wheels and looked at the brakes myself.The rotors look like new and the pads are only half worn.I want to put on new pads and a trusted truck shop wants $7.50 each for cutting.It a no brainer at $7.50 each.

What pads should I go with?I do some heavy towing with the truck and alot of highway.Thanks,Joe M. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]

Pharmer · 10-14-2004, 04:45 PM

I don't tow plus it's a V10, and have original rotors and pads on still at 80K miles. The dealer turned the rotors at 60K and left pads on. Now I'm ready to do all the brakes even though I have pad left, the front rotors are ready to go. Shaking on braking from freeway.

My dealer quoted me for front new pads and rotors $440 and for rear to turn rotors with new pads $225. I plan on having the whole system bled also.

turbodave · 10-14-2004, 05:04 PM

I've got over 85,000 AND I tow. I still have all the original pads, and only have had to have the rotors turned (cut as you call it) twice.

I would recommend finding a trusted dealer, or brake shop that will turn the rotors while still on the truck (this is the recommended method!). Usually costs $65-$90 for the fronts.

I can't imaginge how anybody can turn rotors (especially this large) for $7.50 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
It costs more than that just to take the wheels off to get them rotated.

JOE_M · 10-14-2004, 05:51 PM

I pulled it all off the truck today.The pads are half worn and the rotors look fine.Will I get away with it if I put the old pads back on? The pads look just like the carbon metalic Performance Friction brake pads. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

Bruce1954 · 10-14-2004, 08:14 PM

Yes you can, Had mine turned twice then they were to thin at 60k so new rotors and ceramic pads. Just over 90K now and warped again, I will be buying some ART rotors this time.

BTW the OE pads were still good like about 40% left at 60k but went with new to try ceramics.. Less dust still warps the rotors but not as fast it seems, These were cheap rotors though.

I will be putting ceramics on the rear as well if they ever wear out.

krshultz · 10-14-2004, 08:23 PM

What are you guys doing to warp rotors? I've put 10K on mine in less than 6 months. Rotors are fine. Just curious.

And yeah, hundreds of dollars is highway robbery for a brake job. Me and a buddy did his X's brakes in my driveway in an afternoon, all four corners. He went with Hawk "Super Duty" pads and I've driven it with them on...definitely better than my stock pieces. Wear rates and dusting, well, time will tell...

JOE_M · 10-14-2004, 11:13 PM

Bruce,I have read that ceramic is not recommended for tow vehicles.Have you hear about this also,since a friend tows with his burb using ceramic and has not had a problem.

ken527 · 10-15-2004, 12:44 AM

The same thing happened to me. I bought it new and after 8 months and 19,000 miles it developed a bad front end shake when braking. Dealer told me I needed new pads and had to have the rotors turned all not covered under warranty and they wanted $600.00 for it.
I bought new slotted rotors and pads from ART for $580.00 (Front and rear)installed my self when I took the pads and rotors off they looked like new. Its one of the few times in my life that I really wanted to sue someone.

rozett · 10-15-2004, 08:18 AM

I bought my X used with 18K miles, so I assume that it still had the original rotors and pads. I replaced both at 50K miles with ART brakes. I now have 78K miles and I still love the ART brakes. And I tow a 10K pound trailer several times a week. So I highly recommend ART.

As for warped rotors, after a lot of discussion on another X forum, the biggest cause of warped rotors is overtorqued lug nuts. Ford changed the torque specs several years ago. But most garages use air tools without regard to the settings. Always check your lug nut torque after anyone touches the wheels.

caryt · 10-15-2004, 10:47 AM

Burce,

Whats the new # for the lugs?

Cary

MGX · 10-15-2004, 02:58 PM

165 ft pds...takes a big wrench. My tire shop guy didn't have one that went that high, only 155 ft pds. I went to Home Depot to find one that went that high and the funny thing was they had 2 with the same part number but one was about 3 inches longer than the other. For the same $60 price guess which one I took [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]. May not be able to fit it in anywhere else, but my lug nuts are dead on!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

Bruce1954 · 10-15-2004, 04:05 PM

[ QUOTE ]
165 ft pds...takes a big wrench. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep that's the number

Ford even mailed a new sticker or card as I recall when it was changed

Bruce

hobhancock · 10-15-2004, 06:07 PM

I bought my X used in February and noticed the shake in the front as soon as I drove it. Since I had the same problem with my Suburban I knew how to fix them. I took the front rotors off by myself, its a piece of cake. Took them down to a tire shop that had a big enough center piece on their machine to hold the rotor and they turned them for $15 a piece. Just by looking at them they looked new enough that one might think nothing is wrong with them. I also added the ceramic pads since I had heat problems causing loss in brakes with the cheaper pads. The front pads cost me $75 for lifetime warranty and I put them back on just as easy as I took them off. Maybe for the $600 that has been quote you get dinner with it or something. Maybe they do more than I do in my garage I dont know. All I know is they are easy to take off assuming you have the tools, the shop turned them in about 20 minutes and I had them back on in no time and I do not have the shake anymore. I expect to see it again possibly. When that happens they may be to small to turn the next time so I will go with the ART I suppose.

86GLHS · 10-15-2004, 09:29 PM

I paid just over $100 per rotor from Napa for the front rotors for the 99.5 F250.

Now the Excursion at 125K seems to shimmy when braking so I may either try to cut them or buy good aftermarket slotted rotors.

JOE_M · 10-15-2004, 10:39 PM

I just picked up the freshly turned rotors from the local repair shop.He turned them for $7.50 each and also cleaned up the inner and outer flange surfaces.I asked him why so little in price? he stated "When your warranty runs out you will come to me,the guy that don't rape you".

I told this guy that that is why I called him because i used his services in the past and he was fair.There are some decent folk left in my parts. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

Would you all go for the ceramic or cabon metalic?

If the rain holds up I will finish up and let you all know how it turns out.