Disable rear windows?

[Hog]

Has anyone tried modifying the rear doors on an Excursion so the the window swithces don't work?

I hate to turn them off with the driver's disconnect switch cuz then my wife can't roll down her window in the front passenger side. But if I don't disable the back windows the kids go nuts with them.



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Hoggy

2000 Excursion, Limited, PSD, Oxford White/Gold/Parchment, TT Mirrors, 6 CD, SPEED sensitive interval wipers (ooooOOOOOooooo), Pizza Cutter Tires

Inside every Suburban is a wannabe Excursion...trying to get out!

[Randy Martin]

A good slap on the hand usually disables my back windows. I have yet to find anything that will disable my wife.

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2000, Excursion, PSD, 4X4, Limited, 3.73 LS, Oxford White w/Gold, Skid Plate, 6 CD Changer, Heated TT Extension Mirrors

[MGiles]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Hog:
Has anyone tried modifying the rear doors on an Excursion so the the window swithces don't work?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I suspect their's an easier way to modify it than 'modifying the rear doors' &lt;wiring&gt;. I would concentrate on the front passenger (FP) door circuit wiring. Somewhere in the FP door wiring circuit, the power wire is opened up and fed through the drivers disable switch. I suspect the output of the drivers disable switch has one wire that goes to power the FP door and one wire that goes to power the rear doors. This wire probably goes to the input of each individual door window switch. I would cut the wire that goes to the FP door, and jumper it directly to the input of the drivers disable switch.
You have to be careful how they split the disable switch output wiring to the front and rear doors. You have to make sure you don't cut the wire until after the point where you have the lone wire going to the FP door.
For instance, they could have one output wire (from the disable switch) going directly to the left rear window (via the left floor panel), and one wire which goes to the passenger side of the car to feed both the FP and rear right windows. In this instance, it would probably be split near the FP door. In this case you would have to cut the wire after it splits near the FP door, and run a jumper wire all the way back to the input of the disable switch.
I don't have my Helms manuals here at work so I can't look up the circuit.
Here's another way you COULD do it, but I would not do it this way. Because I personally would like to keep the general wiring the same for the FP door window (make sure it remains in the same circuit and same power window fuse).
There is probably a 'hot' input wire into the FP door lock/unlock switch. You could cut the input wire to the FP window switch, and jumper it directly to that hot lock/unlock input wire.