door ajar light on? - Diesel Forum

ford_x_3 · 03-07-2005, 09:05 AM

Anyone know how to go about checking the door switches?
running board and dome lights are staying on. opened and closed all doors several times they're all latched tight.indicator and lights still stay lit.opened and closed hood then shut drivers door, indicator and lights went out.opened and closed drivers door several times indicator went on and off a few times now it's staying lit again along with all the associated lights.drivers door latch also seems like it might be a slight bit out of alignment.
Help before the batteries get drained please!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]

shamuex2000 · 03-07-2005, 09:17 AM

Most likely it is the switch inside the drivers' door latch thats sticking. A quick fix it to hose the inside of the latch down thouroughly with WD40 and some of the stuff will usually hit the switch. Open and close the door several times. Your lights will turn off on a battery conserve timer, so you don't have to worry too much about your batteries.

mesu · 03-08-2005, 09:11 PM

Hi,

My rear hatch causes same problem. Have to close it firmly at times to stop sticking.

Battery saver cuts off after 20 mins. However if you open/close any other door the timer starts over from 0.

Good luck,

Mesu

86GLHS · 03-09-2005, 10:36 AM

Yes, I agree with the WD40 fix...

fordmastertech · 03-09-2005, 12:20 PM

A few weeks back I had a TDS member send me this. I haven't had any door ajar lights staying on so I really could not try this procedure nor do I think this is even possible for a switch to do this because the switches are 2 wire type with a separate ground wire that provides the ground signal to the GEM module.
Remember this is not my statement so don't shoot the messenger.
I also recommend the WD 40 trick.
[ QUOTE ]

I realy just want to help. go out to your truck and look at the latch. the striker has plastic coating and so does the runway.the hammer has a plastic bushing that keeps it from grounding to the latch. up on top of the hammer has a bear spot that two things on the switch grounds. when a truck door or car door opens and closes the plastic wears away. that is why when you move the hammer the spot comes up and grounds and the door is open but door ajar light and dome light goes off. all other uses door ground so has nothing to do with switch.switch also goes to assesery delay. but when hammer gets worn and the stiker hits the metal then it grounds and the lights stay on untill the timer kicks it off. it door ajar stays on untill you fix.it is on all your doors but drivers wears out first.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hoowasat · 03-09-2005, 05:04 PM

[ QUOTE ]
A few weeks back I had a TDS member send me this. I haven't had any door ajar lights staying on so I really could not try this procedure nor do I think this is even possible for a switch to do this because the switches are 2 wire type with a separate ground wire that provides the ground signal to the GEM module.[ QUOTE ]

Are you saying there are three wires at each switch? My 2001 switches do not have a separate ground wire ... there are only two wires at each switch. They make a circuit complete from the GEM when a door is opened by grounding that circuit to the frame. Note - They do not ground to the door frames ... both wires are fed back through the door jamb, and one of them grounds to sheet metal inside the cabin.

I studied my factory wiring diagrams, and subsequently installed 4 in-line toggle switches near the GEM. The six door ajar switches are handled on four wiring circuits ... one for each of the front doors, one for the pair of rear doors, and one for the pair of switches in the liftgate.

I installed the toggle switches because the WD40 fix was a temporary bandaid, and after replacing all six switches, I still had the dadburn lights coming ... usually when wet outside. The battery-save feature meant nothing because the circuits would energize whenever they wanted, and the auto-timer started ticking anew each time.

Oddly enough, I've had to use one of the toggle switches (rear doors circuit) only one time in the last year.

fordmastertech · 03-09-2005, 05:53 PM

[ QUOTE ]
the switches are 2 wire type with a separate ground wire that provides the ground signal to the GEM module.

[/ QUOTE ] That is what I said.
This explains it a little better. The switches are 2 wire type. One wire goes to ground inside the vehicle, the other wire goes to the GEM module to turn the dome lights/door ajar light on by completing the circuit when the door is opened and the switch closes it's contacts.

I know the switches don't ground to the door striker or latch but that was the PM I received from a TDS member, all I could say is WOW it takes all types to make the world go round.
I have also found the two upper tail gate switches are more problematic on the Excursions.

shamuex2000 · 03-10-2005, 10:14 AM

I got into mine pretty far when it was giving me trouble. I didn't notice any ground issues, seemed to me that the switch was just hanging up. For the record, where are the upper tailgate switches?

fordmastertech · 03-10-2005, 10:29 AM

[ QUOTE ]
For the record, where are the upper tailgate switches?

[/ QUOTE ] In the upper tail gate on both latches.

Excursiongirl · 03-10-2005, 02:14 PM

OMG mine does the same thing. i had a 99 PSD and it too would say that the dor was a jar, except in that truck if you went under 15mph it would switch on all the dome lights. so when i would drive at night i looked like a disco. so now that my x does it too, i really have to say that ford should friggin figure it out! i did the WD40 with the 99, worked for a while, but i lived on dirt roads at the time, so pretty soon it got gunked up with dust and there went that idea. i have not tried it on the x, i guess i will have to.

ford_x_3 · 03-11-2005, 04:00 PM

Thanks Shamu! Once again, a wealth of info!
Spritzed it, next day working fine! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

j_apetersen · 03-12-2005, 01:05 AM

Fordmastertech we wont shoot the messinger.People look at the door latch. the latch is covered with plastic for a reason.on top were you cant see it has a spot that is not covered. that is what completes the ciurcut. take a screw driver and close the latch. if it turnes out the door ajar light. see if the plastic is broken. if the door latches after you check with screw driver and it went out and then you shut the door and it stays on the only thing different is the hammer is grounded to the striker. the rear latch is in the bottom door. if you look 9in the top it has a striker. I hope this helps.

j_apetersen · 03-12-2005, 05:32 PM

I have a question for all you members out there that are answering the door ajar question. Have even went out and looked at the door latch or are you just answering to answer. Mine has plastic around the hammer,runnway,and a plastic between the hammer and the latch it self.I was thinking if yours dont have it maybe mine is made by ford just for me. But I know better. the micro switch mounts to the latch but growns thue the hammer. that is why it is incased in plastic. when you spray it with wd40 the part that is broken moves and makes the switch dot work. after you open and close the door a few times. The light comes on again. Why because you did not fix the problem. The easy test is take a screw driver close the hammer with out shutting the door if light goes out then replace the latch. if it stayes on then check other doors. If that dont work then start pulling door panels.