I am wondering if anyone else has had any problems with the stock driveshaft being out of balance. When I got my X I noticed that there was a small vibration about 70+ mph. I went thru and had the tires match balanced and even had the dealer look at it and they noticed the problem but could not locate the problem. I thought it would just be bad tires. I just lifted it 5" and put new tires and rims had them match balanced and it is still there. I know of only one other person who has had this similar problem and they had the driveshaft replaced. I want to know if anyone, stock or lifted, have had to replace the driveshaft for not being balanced. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
I lifted mine 4 inches and had such horrible vibration that I had to have a CV joint installed in the front end of my driveshaft. Now I'm lifted about 9 inches and have very little vibration. Get your stock shaft balanced at a driveline shop.
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clam the powerstroke grinch
2000 Excursion LTD 4x4
Slightly tweaked HPCR 5.9 Cummins
Allison 1000 5 speed auto
Do you all recommed that I replace the driveshaft with the c/v joint or just get the shaft balanced. A new shaft with c/v joint is 469.00 from high angle drive line. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
my high angle driveline shafts are vibration free righ up to my top speed of 132 mph
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2002 Excursion LTD(PCM:NQW5)Pheltech Tru-Cowl Induction Hood BTS transmission ITP fuel system, 38/15.5/20 Toyo's on Weld 12" wide wheels,15k warn and warn 9.5k rear 4:56's ARB air lockers front and rear. Trail ready front bumper,Road Armor rear bumper light force driving lights, PIAA backup lights,Dakota digital gages, F5 DP tuner chip,Hypermax stage 2 injectors,4" exhaust, 11" Edge lift, King shocks, edge crossover steering, ORU ram assist steering
Fabtech ladder bars,TN turbo, Dynatrac conversion kit. Alpine F1, Zapco amps. two dc1100.1, three dc1000.4, 1 dc750.2, driving seas reference series front stage and Zapco competition rear fill and 2 Jl audio 13w7 subs
AP Racing big brakes, Amp Research running boards
Anyone here know what size the u-joints are on the high angle driveline shaft?
I went to a local shop and they could build it for me, but the stock u-joints are 4 1/4 inches and the u-joints in the CV joint would be 3 5/8 inches. I hate to call Jesse and ask him lots of questions if I may get this done locally.
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2001 Black Excursion, 4x4, XLT, PSD, LS, (EBM2), Super-Duty grill, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bilsteins, X-springs, OilGuard bypass filter, 295's, Badges, Suvlights harness, APC headlights, Weatherboots, Centramatics, Clear corners, AIC w/ITP mount, ISSPRO EVs, BTS trans, Open element intake, ATS compressor housing, Thule rack, BD Torqloc, F350 rear blocks, Randy Ellis lightbar with a couple of Lightforce 170s, Front receiver hitch, DP Tuner chip
1975 Ford Bronco, neglected since I bought the Excursion
I too put on a Driveshaft from Jesse at High Angle Drivline and I'm very happy. I lifted mine 6" and had a terrible vibration from 55-70 mph. I went to a local shop that does nothing but heavy duty truck parts and driveline service...They where "guessing" at what would work and what wouldn't and from the first estimate they gave me I chose Jesse. Their estimate was $600-625...It was a while ago but I think Jesse was $470-ish plus shipping for $25 bucks from Cali to PA and a $75 core charge on my old shaft. He uses the ford "special" flange ends over on his new shafts. I had to pay $50 bucks to send the old shaft back to him.
So for about $550-ish for everything and the experience Jesse has with these Excursion driveline vibrations it was a no brainer for me.
Give him a call...He's a good guy.
Good Luck,
Brent.
Anyway, Just remember that if you go with the double CV you still have to deal with the pinion angle. BUt, chances are much better that you will not have any vibration. Check this link out.
If you want to get rid of complete driveline vibration and be back to original feel you will probably have to go with a new driveshaft. My suggestion to all that want to do a lift is to assume you have to do it and build it into your costs. If its not required then you are pleasantly suprised. But, again I doubt you will be happy unless you get a double cv driveshaft.
PS: I had to replace a cv joint on my Jesse shaft after about 20,000 miles. I was on a cross country trip with a trailer at the time. Not saying there was anything wrong with the driveshaft just that it happens.
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2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion The Beast
DPTuner 40Tow, 60Tow, 80Econo, BTS Valve Body, AIS Intake, AIH Delete, MBRP Stainless 3.5" DP and 4" Exhaust, 5" All spring Edge lift, Rize Traction Bars, CV joint driveshaft, 315 BFG ATs on Alcoa wheels, Warn Transformer with multi mount winch power front and back, 1000 watt power inverter, VCR, 4.10 gears and ARB Lockers Front and Back
I had a significant vibration at 65 mph. It cost me less than $80 to have the local driveline shop take the prop shaft off and balance it. It still has the slightest vibration, but it is tolerable.
It let me put the money it would have cost me for new prop shaft into 4" exhaust.
I forgot to mention that I went with 8" rear springs so I could get rid of those 1 7/8" blocks...Unfortunately since the stock blocks where tapared for the correct pinion angle I had to re-shim the rear pinion back into allowable alignment with the driveshaft. I used BDS suspensions 4* shims and cut off my Donahoe Racing center spring pack bolts and installed new longer spring pack bolts and sandwiched the shim with the springs. That way the shim was not independant from the spring pack. Plus the entire head of the center spring pack bolt was inserted in my axle spring pearch.
BEAST...I ended up with my CV joint no more than 2* off from alignment with my driveshaft. Did you check your new driveshaft to the pinion angle when you installed it?
Sorry so long but I'm known for being long winded!
Yes I did have to shim my driveshaft some to align the pinion angle in line with the driveshaft. I think it may have been a 4 degree shim also. I did the same thing as you basically. I put a 5" DR all spring lift kit on which also eliminated the rear blocks. Interesting that we both ended up with a 4 degree shim.
For others starting this process I suggest when putting your rear axle back on after a lift use your old U bolts. Test drive, reshim, test drive, etc. After you get all the driveline issues taken care of then swap out the old u bolts with your new ones. Technically you are only suppose to torque these bolts once. So, work out the bugs with your old u bolts then install the new ones. Of course I wouldn't tow heavy, etc. with the old bolts.
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2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion The Beast
DPTuner 40Tow, 60Tow, 80Econo, BTS Valve Body, AIS Intake, AIH Delete, MBRP Stainless 3.5" DP and 4" Exhaust, 5" All spring Edge lift, Rize Traction Bars, CV joint driveshaft, 315 BFG ATs on Alcoa wheels, Warn Transformer with multi mount winch power front and back, 1000 watt power inverter, VCR, 4.10 gears and ARB Lockers Front and Back
Just pull your driveshaft out and have it checked for balance. Then have a shop put a CV on that shaft. This will save you some money, and should take care of the vibes. Once the CV is installed shim your pinion and make it straight or 0 degrees. Im getting ready to do this to my X. Have seen other guys do this on other sites and the results were great.
Nick
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01' Powerstroke Excursion, 4x4, DR 9" lift, 39.5 x 13.50" IROK radials on 16x10 Eagle Alloys, Autometer ProComp Guages mounted on dash pyro, boost, tranny, CB radio custom install in dash were cubby hole under 4x4 select switch used to be, DP Tuner chip 60, 80, 120, and High Idle(1200 RPM), DIY gears and lockers, Lockright up front, Detroit locker in the rear, 4.30 gears, Dynatrac front hubs (REAL HUBS), BTS Tranny, 4"dp to 5" exhaust dumps infront of rear pass. tire NO MUFFLER, Tymar intake,WW, AIH Delete
Nick, I hope it works out for you when you do it. But I was told that they couldn't just add a CV joint to the existing shaft because the driveshaft was to short now from the 6" lift. The CV joint would take care of the pinion angle vibration but I would still have a driveshaft that was 2" to short. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] Maybe I was ripped off and lied to by my local driveline shop but I know it is smooth running now.
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