Electronic Automatic Temperature Control

[jmatterand]

I have had several episodes of the Automatic Temperature Control in my 03 Limited not powering up. I have no fan, no ability to change mode (from defrost to A/C) and no lights on the display. The first time was after an oil change at the dealer. The second time was just out of the blue, I stopped at the office to pick something up and when I restarted I had no Temp Control. Both times I did not get anything to work that day, but the next day it showed up just fine. The second time I carefully checked the fuses with no fuse problems.

I was just wondering if anyone else has had something similar happen. I could find no threads on the subject with several searches.

John

[CHPMustang]

Hi John,I also did a back search in the Excursion and General archives and could find nothing that would relate to what you have going on.

If someone has a service CD with electrical harness schematics for the electronic air controls that might help to locate a loose harness plug maybe.

Is your 2003 still within it's original 3/36 warranty?

Bill

[fordmastertech]

Ford has had some issues with the key not returning to the run position completely and causing things like this. There is a TSB to replace the ignition lock cylinder on the vehicles up to 2002, I see yours is a 2003. The TSB was for starter grinding but I have also seen the symptoms you describe happing too. When it acts up again try rotating the ignition switch back to the run position and see if the problem goes away. This may be a long shot.
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TSB
03-20-5 DRIVEABILITY - NO START/REPEAT STARTER FAILURE - REPEAT STARTER REPLACEMENT
ELECTRICAL - STICKING OR BINDING IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER BETWEEN START AND RUN
ENGINE - STARTING - STARTER STAYING ENGAGED AT START UP

Publication Date: September 30, 2003

FORD: 1999-2003 EXCURSION, SUPER DUTY F SERIES


This article supersedes TSB 02-19-4 to update the service procedures and service part information.

ISSUE:
Some 1999-2003 SuperDuty and Excursion vehicles may exhibit the condition of starter staying engaged after releasing key from start position, repeat starter failure or a sticking/binding ignition lock cylinder. This may be due to:

An Ignition Lock Cylinder Binding Not Fully Returning From Start To Run
Short Condition On Starter Relay Circuit 113 (YE/LB) Or 1093 (TN/RD)
Sticking Starter Relay
An Internal Short In The Power Distribution Junction Box (PDJB)

ACTION:
If one of these conditions occur, inspect the starter and flywheel for damage and replace as necessary. Inspect the starter circuit for shorts including the Power Distribution Junction Box (PDJB) and verify proper cylinder lock function. Service as necessary. Use the following procedure to diagnose the starter circuit and system components.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

To check for short in the starter relay circuit 113:

Check terminal #2 at starter relay for voltage with key in run position (move key from "OFF" to "RUN") with the engine off. If voltage is present, locate and repair short. If no short detected, continue with Step 2.
With starter relay terminal #2 removed and vehicle in park, monitor voltage at starter relay terminal after cycling ignition from START to RUN (Do not assist key back to run position).
If voltage is present after cycling key returns to Run position, Connect NGS/WDS or Scan Tool and monitor PIDS. Check for KEY_START and KEY_RUN. If the KEY_RUN PID is not seen after any KEY_START PID, the ignition cylinder lock is seizing and must be replaced.
For 1999-2001 vehicles, access the GEM (Generic Electronic Module) to view PIDS
For 2002-2003 vehicles, access the HEC (Hybrid Electronic Cluster) to view PIDS.
If key check is functioning properly and voltage is still present, check the starter relay for sticking by swapping with a known good relay and repeat Step 2.
NOTE: IF ALL OF THE ABOVE CONDITIONS ARE VERIFIED FOR PROPER OPERATION, THE ISSUE MAY BE CAUSED BY AN INTERMITTENT BINDING CONDITION IN THE IGNITION CYLINDER LOCK. PROCEED WITH REPLACEMENT OF IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER (11582).



IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE

Disconnect the battery ground cable and wait at least one minute.
Insert the ignition key and turn it to the RUN position.
Insert a punch into the access hole (located in the lower steering column shroud, below the lock cylinder) and press the release button while pulling out the ignition switch lock cylinder.
NOTE: SOME VEHICLES DO NOT HAVE AN ACCESS HOLE AND REQUIRE LOWER SHROUD REMOVAL. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE MODEL WORKSHOP MANUAL, IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION SECTION 211 IF ADDITIONAL DETAIL IS REQUIRED.



Install new Ignition Lock Cylinder and verify proper function.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
1L3Z-11582-AB Ignition Lock Cylinder

[989171]

This has been talked about a couple times in the past. Mine has done exactly that twice in the last 1.5 years. No other symptoms, so I doubt its a key thing. It hasn't happened in over 6 months, kind of hard to diagnose a problem that intermittent. Oh, a couple other people chimed up and said they experienced the same thing.

[jmatterand]

Thanks for the replies. I have tried every key position possible when the problem has happened, with no change. What has solved it both times was sitting overnight. It seems hard to imagine that a loose connection would be restored with just sitting. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] So far it has happened so infrequently that it hasn't been a big problem, but I'm hoping that it doesn't happen sometime when I get heavy condensation on the inside glass. At least it's good to know that it has happened to a few others.

John

[DouglasH]

I have an 2004 X, same problems as you. Took it to the dealership, by some act of god it did it to them. They replaced the whole control unit and I have not had any issues so far. Talk to your dealer see if they can help you.

[Retrofitter]

I had same problem last December, no control for a 100 mile trip. Tried the switch on off with no help. When I arrived at destination, I popped the fuse cover off under the steering column, pushed on all the circuit breakers, relays, etc. Have not had the problem since. Maybe concidence?

[fordmastertech]

[ QUOTE ]
I had same problem last December, no control for a 100 mile trip. Tried the switch on off with no help. When I arrived at destination, I popped the fuse cover off under the steering column, pushed on all the circuit breakers, relays, etc. Have not had the problem since. Maybe concidence?


[/ QUOTE ] I have run into this on a lot of vehicles, not necessarily for this concern but other things cutting out intermediately, that had wires taps hooked to the fuses for power. They will spread the terminals out and cause the fuse to loose connection with the power supplied from the fuse box. I would defiantly check this out the next time it cuts out by moving the fuses slightly.
FMT
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

[typhoid]

My 03 has done the same thing twice, which is not a good thing during the summer in Texas. I'm just shy of 36K miles, so I took it in to the dealer for a look-see before the warranty runs out. I expected the usual "could not find anything wrong", since it works fine 99.9% of the time, but they replace the control head and evacuated and recharged the system.

Hopefully this will solve the problem.