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I have done it and it is not bad.
Remove the tire.
Remove the entire caliper unit. 2 bolts I think.
Be careful not to drop the caliper. I usually take a clothes hanger, cut it, bend it, and make a hanger out of it to hang the calipers on from something sturdy. I usually put the hook through a caliper bolt hole at one end and something sturdy at the other.
Slide the old rotor off. Slide the new one on.
Replace the caliper. Bolt it on.
Replace the tire. Bolt it on.
Some manufacturers recommend that you clean the plate at the base of the studs that the rotor slides against. I usually use a pnumatic wire brush.
I recommend that you get out your torque wrench and torque any, and all, bolts.
And let me say that I am not a mechanic. Rotors are easy.
The pads are, I believe, more work than the rotors. Simply because you have to make sure the springs are properly in place and the anti-squeal goop is in the proper locations.
Note that there are rotor recommendations on this website, if you have not purchased yours yet.
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'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, Auto tranny of course (they all did), 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Rancho XL shocks, Rancho steering damper, Airlift 5000, S&S Diversified headlight mod. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars. 
'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook moniter (Very disappointed in the Bully Dog), 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500, S&S Diversified headlight mod.
'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
'11 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic 103 ci PowerPak w/ anti lock brakes & Smart Security system. It even has cruise control!!! Candy Dark Root Beer over Candy Light Root Beer  Yaesu FTM-10R & a Comet CSB 790A
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