At 57k, I am beginning to experience what the car mag guys call "vague on center feel". This means that I am doing more (more than usual) "sawing" with the wheel to keep it going straight.
I have tires with less than 10k that are always balanced and inflated properly. Also, the Rancho's have less than 20k miles on them. I have had an alignment done recently, but I believe the feeling I'm getting is more due to parts that need replacing. I'd like some opinions on what should be looked at and what might be the best (better)replacement parts.
Thanks,
Mark
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Have you jacked up either front tire to see if there's wheel bearing play?
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It tracks well and doesn't pull left or right. I think you described it well in that it feels like steering wheel play. I haven't jacked it up to see if there's play in the bearings but that will go on the list of things to check. Would this cause the free play?
Thanks,
Mark
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Loose steering can be caused by a lot of things. Did it wander before the alignment. Tow out or too much tow in can cause it. Bad part, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod end, can all cause it. ALSO a loose wheel bearing if it is bad enough, ( really bad) can. A dead spot in the steering gear, steering stabilizer shock loose or weak.
Although it is rare, tires can also cause it. Try to remember if you had anything done to it just before it started wandering and no matter how unlikely it may seem, it may be related.
I suggest start simple, check air pressure, loose parts, alignment AGAIN and perhaps rotate the tires as a last resort. This will rule out tire incompatability which does happen.
I have checked the design of the X front end and do not see anything that should normally wear out in 58k unless you do an awful lot of off road driving. The weakest link I found may be the steering stabilizer shock.
Hope this helps,
Mesu
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Mark,if you can acquire someone to spot the steering gear moving while you're turning steering wheel side to side you'll see the pivoting point.
It could be simply within the steering box as worn down gears as associated with higher mileage vehicles for example.
I don't know if they can be adjusted to reduce the play or it would need a simple rebuild but it's gotta be easier than a rear axle ring and pinion job.
Yes you can adjust play in steering gear box. On top of gearbox is a stud with lock/jamnut.
If you determine gearbox is the loose factor, loosen nut and turn stud to snug up the play on worm gear. "ONLY turn lightly - DO NOT FORCE" Small 1/8 or 1/4 turn adjustments. Internal components can be easily damaged!
Best done with 2 people, having someone rock steering wheel left & right until play is removed, then back off slightly & snug down nut.
I replaced ball joints with lifetime "Greaseable" MOOG products. You can ALWAYS tell when you grease-em, because steering effort gets lighter. The problem is these things weigh so much that you would have to grease them every 200miles to keep a freer feeling steering wheel. I grease every 1500 - 2000 miles.
DDD
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I've had the same problem since I bought my 2000 X. It lacks a centered position...it wanders and tends to have steering memory instead of always re-centering itself. It is really the only complaint I have right now with the X. I just read several older posts on this forum last week about this common problem. According to what I read sevral people slightly loosened the steering play adjustment about 1/8" to allow the steering wheel to recenter itself instead of being too tight and staying where you turn it. I was getting ready to start a post asking how to do this procedure?? I don't even know how to get to the steering box...but with good directions I'm wondering if I could do this adjustement myself?? My X has new ball joints, tires, ES 2000 steering stabilizer, new hub assembly and everything is tight in the front end!! Therefore, I tend to think it could easily be something to do with the steering box adjustment. I can't remember what section I read about this in...I'll have to look it back up. Happy Steering [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
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OK, I'm still confused regarding the steering needing to be tightened or loosened. It seems that mine is so tight that it does not want to come back to center position thus always tracking to the last place it has been turned?? When I read the original posts on this subject it seemed that most people needed to loosen it, but a couple people needed to tighten it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] Doesn't the factory have these adjustments standard?? What do I do [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]...I'm tired of worrying about staying in my own lane.
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2000 X ltd.,white/parchment 4X4 loaded,285/75/16 BFG's,dvd,converted 06 oem grill,Xtint,New style clear headlights & clear corners w/ Plasma white bulbs,Fumoto,cut front bumps,Bilstein's,ass'd X badges & ass'd door PSD badges,ISSPRO EV gauges,clear cab lights, Wet Okole front seat covers, Weathertech visors,Pro-Comp steer stab.,Tymar Perf.intake, AIH removal mod w/boost tap,muffler delete turbo back Magnaflow 4" SS exhaust,WW,ATS Housing,Turbomaster controller,CCV Bypass,Edge Evolution Programmer(Extreme every day tow heavy in 80HP Mode),Power Slot rotors all around w/Hawk LTS pads,Duralast Gold Batteries, etc.); BTS tranny & new programming if oem ever dies.
In betweeen boats so now I have a custom 2003 HD Heritage Softtail I Love! Will return to boating when sons get older at 2mm LOTO, MO! Ride with friends now...Harley much cheaper on fuel! http://community.webshots.com/user/jweiler27
Work hard, play hard; strive to be the best at whatever you are doing!
All that is getting adjusted is the gear to gear clearance within the gearbox,sorta like how much they interconnect when in motion. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
i adjusted my SB yesterday. My sympton was 2-3" of steering wheel movement before actually making a noticeable direction change. I ended up with about 3/4 of a turn on the hex wrench to tighten. 1 full turn to make contact with the gears and a 1/4 back to avoid binding the gear. BTW, I have 76K and just had the front end checked for wear and there isn't any noticeable parts needing replacement.
With mine I've always felt the steering was to sensitive. I have to make frequent corrections to keep it in lane. It doesn't take much movement of the steering wheel to correct. I would like to have a more solid feel of the road with less senstivity.
Does it sound like I would need to tighten or loosen the steering box adjustment?
Thanks!
David
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With mine I've always felt the steering was to sensitive. I have to make frequent corrections to keep it in lane. It doesn't take much movement of the steering wheel to correct. I would like to have a more solid feel of the road with less senstivity.
Does it sound like I would need to tighten or loosen the steering box adjustment?
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I'd say back it off 1/8-1/4 turn loosening the adjustment nut.
The steering sensitivity in our Excursion is very similar to our Mustang which is just a few turns lock to lock with zero play.
Most of the wandering ailment common to Excursions is not originating at the front end of the truck. Believe it or not, the rear axle is inducing its own steering because of the X's weak leaf springs ("weak" in comparison to OEM springs on F250/350/450/550 models). Wandering occurs when you get spring-wrap in the rear leaf springs, but the wrap is uneven side to side. That allows the rear axle to get out of square with the vehicle's centerline, and rear axle steering (or you can call it a form of bumpsteer) is the result. One fellow told me he rode alongside while his wife drove their X while towing a TT, and he could actually see this happen. I installed a couple rods on mine that work similar to ladder bars (except these attach to the leaf springs and not the frame), and the wandering ceased ... completely.
Did you get a before and after printout from the alignment shop? I'll bet they reduced the amount of toe-in. 4WD Ex's track best with 1/8" of toe-in. Alignment shops often go with "0" or 1/16" toe, fearing excessive tire wear with more toe-in. I'm not sure that's true from my experience so far, but I'll gladly give up 10,000 miles of tire life for improved directional stability.
BTW, make sure you get all the play out of the steering box (mine took three turns, only 12000 miles), dial in 1/4 of a degree of negative camber, 5-6 degrees of positive caster (offset bushings and caster wedges needed) and last but not least, install Landyot radius rods.
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