I got tired of pulling up to a pump and the Diesel nozzle didn't fit into my fill neck on my Excursion. So I did a little surgery to remove the restrictor. I'm sure I will now have to hold the smaller pump handles in.
All it took was to remove the three screws holding the neck, and remove the two hose clamps under the body behind the leaf spring. Pull off the assembly then took my dremel tool and proceeded to remove the plastic material and the metal splash guard just fell out. I cleaned it up real good with water, wiped it out and then used my air compressor to finish off the job. Nice and clean, wide open and ready to fill up at any truck stop.
I went to the dealership to see if I could buy a new assembly just to have on hand. They wanted $175.00 for it.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jbkrab: All it took was to remove the three screws holding the neck, and remove the two hose clamps under the body behind the leaf spring. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
That doesn't sound too hard. One question, tho, how far down are the hose clamps? Your description makes them sound like they are down by the fuel tank.
Do you need to do this when the tank is mostly empty to prevent a fuel spill?
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Hog
2000 Excursion, LTD, PSD, Oxford White/Gold/Parchment, TT Mirrors, 6 CD Ford Excursion- Anything else is a lesSUV!
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2000 Excursion, LTD, PSD, Oxford White/Gold/Parchment, PPIII, Triple A-Pillar w/Autometer Gauges, 4 Exhaust, TT Mirrors, 6 CD, K&N, Bridgestone Revo A/Ts, C-Betr Mirrors <font color="red">(as endorsed by Porky Pig hisself!) </font> Ford Excursion- Anything else is a lesSUV!
The hose clamps are by the tank. You can see them above the leaf spring. Easy to get at. Makes more sense once you crawl under there and look. Just don't poke your head down, you need to really lay down on your back and see it. You must remove the three little sheet metal screws that hold the fill neck into the body first, then loosen the hose clamps, then pull the fill neck away from the sheet metal (watch out for a lot of debris) and then pull off the hoses. They will be very greasy, so have a towel handy to get a better grip.
I forgot to mention, I made sure I was about 1/4 tank - 1/2 tank down when I did this. I hate getting Diesel fuel on my clothes. I don't mind the smell, but hate the stains.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jbkrab: So I did a little surgery to remove the restrictor. I'm sure I will now have to hold the smaller pump handles in.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
jbkrab,
Don't worry. I have a 2001 F250 and it doesn't have the restrictor. The small pump handles stay in just fine.
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2001 F250 XLT 4X2 PSD CC 156" WB, Auto, 3.73 LSA, True Blue/Silver, Alum. wheels, TTT Mirrors, Priv. Glass, APCM, TTM, Line-X, ordered 6/28, build date 8/14, arrived 8/23.PHOTOS NRA, NAHC & MU Alumni Assoc. Life Member, TNUSA member, USAR Veteran and American Legion member.
I have been an electronics techie for over 21 years. So I may need some re-education. If the restrictor is a ground source, why then is there no electrical continuity between the restrictor and the vehicle ground. Since the entire assembly is a high pressure thermosetting injected molded piece of plastic. Most likely a varity of GE VALOX plastic. So electrical continuity is not possible. Also, there is no electrical connection between the filler neck and the tank. Considering there are at least 2.5' of rubber hose between the tank and the filler.
Anyway, I love this modification. No matter where I pull into for Diesel, I no longer worry if the nozzle will fit. I know it will fit. (until some trucking industry guy comes along and decides to make the fillers on Big Rigs even bigger!)
Regards,
Ben
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2000 XLT EXCURSION, 4X4, Chestnut, PSD, 3.73 LS, AT Tires, Skid Plate, Tele PWR TT Mirrors, Chrome Wheels, Reverse Sen. Aid., K&N Air Filter, 3 Guages, TTM, APCM, W-D Turbo Brake, Towing a 2001 Dutchmen Supreme Travel Trailer Model 31BH4-DSL.
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2000 XLT EXCURSION, 4X4, Chestnut, PSD, 3.73 LS, AT Tires, Skid Plate, Tele PWR TT Mirrors, Chrome Wheels, Reverse Sen. Aid., K&N Air Filter, 3 Guages, TTM, APCM, W-D Turbo Brake, Rancho RS9000's, Grover Air Horn 1609KD, Towing a 2001 Dutchmen Supreme Travel Trailer Model 31BH4-DSL.
Hi Scott what he said is there would have to be a ground strap on the rubber to an external strap that connected to the flapper in the filler and the metal of the truck. Rubber is a good insulator.
s to ya and hope this helps.
Ed
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Y2K"X" LTD. PSD 2/WD FIBERGLASS RUNNINGBOARDS SUNVISOR &other goodies.LIFER NRA,TX.ST.RIFLE ASSOC.& GOA. MEMBER NRA\ILA.
I DO VOTE!
[This message has been edited by H ED S (edited 02-26-2001).]
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2005 LTD. X PSD 2WD FIBERGLASS RUNNINGBOARDS; SUNVISOR: REAR DEFLECTOR
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I performed surgery on my fuel filler neck this afternoon. Like the others, I got sick of not being able to get fuel at truck stops. Anyway, if interested, here's how I tackled the job.
First and foremost, wear safety glasses...lots of road grit under your truck. May I recommend keeping your mouth closed too(don't ask)!
1) Make sure your tank is no more than about 1/3rd full.
2) There are two hose clamps above the right leaf spring's rear bracket. Loosen these two clamps. If you have recently driven the vehicle, have a rag handy in case some residual fuel seeps out when loosening the clamps.
3) Open fuel door and remove fuel cap.
4) Remove the three hex-head sheet metal screws holding the filler neck in place.
5) Back underneath, loosen the hoses from the filler neck by rotating with your hand, and/or inserting a flat blade screwdriver and working it around.
6) Remove hoses from filler neck....easier said than done....it can be a bit tricky as there's not a lot of room for you hands up there.
7) Pull the filler neck assembly out of the truck.
8) Secure filler neck assy. in a vise and enlarge opening by drilling with a 1-9/16" hole saw. The original hole's center is offset, so let the side of the holesaw ride against the edge to maintain this offset. Once you drill through, the metal splash guard tab will fall out.
9) Clean up all burrs with 1/2 round or rat-tail file or similar.
10) Rinse filler neck assembly thoroughly with garden hose to remove all particles.
11) Blow dry with compressed air. If it's warm where you live, you might not have to dry it any furthre, but here in IN, I couldn't get it dry. So I got the wife's hair dryer(ssshhh, don't tell) out and dried it out completely with that. Make sure it's nice and dry(and clean) before you put it back in the truck.
12) Reinstall in reverse order.
You can now filler up with the big boys. But be careful, those big truck stop nozzles flow mighty fast. You'll be lucky if you can even set the truck stop fuel nozzle to the first notch before it start foaming over.
I performed the same surgery but somewhat differently.
The restrictor is plastic. I took a big knife(yes one of the wifes kitchen knives ) and stuck it in the slot on the side of the filler neck and then jammed it in. This severed one side. Did the same thing on the other side holding the partially severed restrictor with a pair of needle-nose pliers so it would not fall in the filler neck. Whole operation took under two minutes. The very cautious might want to jam a rag into the filler neck before surgery to minimize any risk of something falling in.
Breaking the restrictor apart so violently gave me great satisfaction. Made up for all those times I got soaked with diesel pumping at the truck pumps. The dim bulb award goes to Ford for that design.
I guess I don't get the purpose. At least here in Arizona, the diesel at the big-rig pump is subject to a $.07 per gallon use tax. It is always cheaper to go to the auto diesel pump.
Do any other states have this kind of tax?
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The Burly Girl -- '00 PSD Excursion Ltd, 4x4, Dk Satin Green, Grey Interior,
TT package, Tekonsha Envoy, optioned out. (yep - heated seats in AZ
I guess being a rather anal feller, I decided to go the hole-saw route to make the new larger hole nice and clean...and round. I agree that PolarBr's method is a good one.
As far as using the trucker nozzles instead of auto diesel, .....here in IN, we get about a 10cent per galloon discount by using the big one. That is if you have an ICC number.
There are only a very few states that add tax at the "truckers" pump. Usually it is cheaper at the big rig pumps or at least the same price. From what I have seen, a premium of .05 to .10 cents per gallon is often charged at the auto pumps.
Prices are the same here in MN and surrounding states for rig-style pumps and regular pumps. Regardless of price difference, that will not even concern you when the only option you have is the big-rig-style pump.
I got really angry towing a trailer a while back because I had to make three stops over the course of ten miles to find a pump that had a small enough nozzle. When you're getting close to "E" on the fuel gauge and you can't find the right size nozzle at any local pumps, it's very frustrating.
It seems as if the further out of the city you go, the less easy it is to find the correct size diesel pumps for this wonderful fuel neck design. Talk about a major oversight at Ford, I just can't imagine how a person could approve this part for a diesel vehicle.
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-Eric 2000 Excursion Limited, PSD, Hypermax 330 chip, Viper 550 alarm w/ remote start, Alpine multimedia system, subs mounted in rear cargo doors, 21% tint all around
) and stuck it in the slot on the side of the filler neck and then jammed it in. This severed one side. Did the same thing on the other side holding the partially severed restrictor with a pair of needle-nose pliers so it would not fall in the filler neck. Whole operation took under two minutes. The very cautious might want to jam a rag into the filler neck before surgery to minimize any risk of something falling in.
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