My 2002 X 4x4 has 100k miles on it. I am in the process of trying to improve the ride. Next on the list is front springs. Are there any really big gotchas to watch out for? I will be removing the stock D codes and putting on the U codes. Along with the springs I ordered the u-bolts and shackle bolts as well (just in case [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]) Other "upgrades" so far have been the tie-rod ends, steering stabilizer, and sway bar bushings. HOPEFULLY this will be the last thing I need to do for a while.
Anyway, suggestions are appreciated. I have never replaced springs on an Excursion (yet) so I really would like any suggestions that will help eliminate typical problems encountered.
Take the bumper off to get to the front bolts. Much faster than trying to do it with the bumper on. Have help with the bumper, not because it's heavy, but it'll roll forward as you remove it and scratch the paint in front of the wheel wells.
The front bolts are really tight, so you'll need a big pipe on your wrench to get them off. Buy yourself a Haynes manual or one of the CD manuals on the internet. Either has the torques specs - follow 'em.
Good luck!
Mark
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2001 Excursion 4x4, v-codes, Western Diesel guages, AIS with fender sleeve & zoodad, MBRP 4" exhaust, Tru-Cool Max tranny cooler, 203* thermostat, BFG AT 285/75-16's, RS9000X's, Rancho steering stabilizer, tightened steering box, Hellwig sway bar, Air-Lift springs and compressor, Draw-Tite trunnion bar WD hitch, SUVlights.com harness, PIAA driving lights with homemade harness, Cobra 25STWX radio
Pull the front bumper off first.
The bolts that go through the spring's front eyes are assembled with permanent threadlock...lots of it. A small propane torch is a good way to burn that stuff out of there so you can start to loosen them.
Just be careful and don't roast the truck... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
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clam the powerstroke grinch
2000 Excursion LTD 4x4
Slightly tweaked HPCR 5.9 Cummins
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Do what they said, remove the bumper, it is really the only way, I would go with V codes to level it out. If you are going this fay get a 1.5 add-a-leaf for 3"s of lift and a 4" block for the rear. Might as well get it done right the first time.
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Some people are like Slinkys. They are good for nothing but still put a smile on your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. 2003 X Limited Ultimate, Mineral Grey Metalic. DVD, Limited Slip, Badged, Cab Lights, Magnaflow, Thule Rack, 3" Lift, T Prodigy, Air Bags, Edge Programer, XM Radio, Extreme sound system. 315/70/17s on AR Chrome/Aluminium.http://community.webshots.com/user/stellinm
You'll be happy with either "u" or "v" codes. Per Bruce1954, he feels that "u" codes are what should have come with the X in the first place and if he did it again he would probably go this route. If you are going to lift it or put a heavy duty front bumper on get the "v" codes.
-Mike
__________________ 2002 Excursion ~ Limited Ultimate ~ 7.3L PSD ~ 4x4
Mineral Gray, Limited Premier Group & Monochrome Package, two tone leather interior (pre-Eddie Bauer), TTT Mirrors, 3.73 Limited Slip, F250 Lariat wheels.
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Thought I was the only one who did not let his sit! I am close to 108K
so 102K on my V codes. The only problem you will have is you will kick yourself for not putting them on sooner [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Go with the info here I have done that will all my mods and have never regreted any of them.
Well I did sort of "pioneer" the U-V code thing but I got lucky with some guessing and based it on a the little bit of feed back here at the time with some folks who had done the X codes (2 or 3) and W code(1 gaser in Canada) and that was to much for what I wanted.
Bruce
BTW Mike I am rethinking my U code thoughts I have to measure my X now that it has gone down the road a mile or two, I am thinking V code left front and U code on right front for a level left to right truck.
This is done in passenger cars (but not in trucks as far as I know) the front springs are slightly different to compensate for the added weight typicaly on the left (steering system and dash). Then there is the driver to consider also, if I do any thing of the sort the members of this board will be the first to know! Any one ever weighed there X left to right? I am not sure about the different rates left to right if this could be problem I can not think of one it could even help with vibrations since the left and right would have a different natural vibration frequency.
Bruce
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V Code LF, U Code RF Modified Fs in the rear
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ART Rotors, Performance Friction Pads, Front & Rear
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06 Chrome Package Grill,bumpers and hooks. After an encounter with a Honda, (She got the ticket) 2005 Ex and Specs and Pictures of 2002 X
Ok. I got the leaf springs installed at a local shop last week. I got the u code springs. (according to the dealer anyway) Rides MUCH better. BUT, I have a vibration (and a ROAR) in the rear end now. The middle row of seats shakes badly at 70+. I can feel the vibration in the floor starting at around 55. Not bad, but there none the less. There was a slight vibration BEFORE I had the front springs put on. There is a NOTICABLE difference in the ride, but not the height. I don't think the "drive line angle" could have changed enough to cause the vibration, but....
Anyway, I was trying out all the different things I could think of to find the problem. Mostly it was getting the truck up to the vibrating speed and then changing the gear to neutral. The vibration was still there when the gear was in neutral, so I think that may eliminate the rear bearings as a suspect. (BTW, the vibration/roar stays obvious until the speed drops back to around 55 or so)
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When you guys added the leaf springs does it effect the X overall hieght. Will it still fit under a standard 7' garage door. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]FJF
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What did you do to the rear? Blocks? If so were they tappered and if not they should and if they are were they installed the right way. This could be a U joint that is now on a new angle , was going bad to begin with and is now showing itself.
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When you guys added the leaf springs does it effect the X overall hieght. Will it still fit under a standard 7' garage door. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]FJF
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Yes, that's one of the primary reasons for doing it.
As for the door, it should but every door is different. I know I have several inches clearance now where some can barely squeeze in theirs.
__________________ 2004 EB Excursion, 4x4, 6.0, everything but step tubes and 2nd row chairs, Magnaflow Exhaust, Isspro Gauges in an under cubby pod, Fumoto sitting on V Codes and Revo 285's.
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I noticed a little change in the nose height but not to much. Truck appears to sit level now. (And rides MUCH better BTW)
As for the vibration, I took the truck to the Ford dealer in town. He recommended that I take the truck to a drive shaft shop in town and have the drive shaft balanced and the pinion angle re-aligned. I called the 4wd shop that does ALL the lifts in town (they changed the springs for me BTW) and they told me to bring it to them and they would have a look. They removed the drive shaft and checked the u-joints, then re-installed the driveshaft and tightened up the rear axle u bolts. Viola. No more vibration. (they did NOT flip the driveshaft over BTW. All they did was remove it and re-install it.)
Something I did find out though, the radius rods will send a rear end vibration through the body of an Excursion. The Ford dealer told me the radius rods is what was causing the vibration. I told him no they weren't but he insisted. I told him to remove the rods then. He did and guess what? The vibration was still there. Not as noticable, but still there. No vibration AFTER I left the 4wd shop. Radius rods get re-installed this weekend. :~>
Also, I had replaced the rear bumps stops with Timbrens. The dealer told me they were also a cause of the vibration. (even though they weren't touching the axle BTW) I ain't sure the dealers "suspension guy" has a clue. One lesson learned, don't take truck to dealer for vibration :~>
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